Cochin and the chinese fishing nets

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After a fairly uneventful train journey, we arrived in Cochin and learning from our previous mistakes we immediately booked tickets for our next leg of the journey in a few days time. Cochin is made up of several islands and peninsulas connected by a local ferry system. We decided to walk the 1.4 mile to the ferry jetty but soon found that in the midday heat with our packs on, the distance feels like it effectively tripled. We bought our tickets to fort Cochin, the more historic part of the city, for 2.5 rupees each (about 3.5 pence), not bad for a 20 minute ferry ride.

Fort Cochin is the historic district whose architecture is based on British, Portuguese and Dutch influences and was used as a port of the shipping of spice abroad. The docks are lined with distinct warehouses used for storing the exports, and about half still are as the spice trade continues, the remaining ones being converted into shops. During our stay, it became evident that there were not nearly as many tourists around as the guide book had suggested, this being a popular tourist destination so the supply/demand balance for services was heavily in our favour. The auto rickshaw took us to our hotel for 10rs, about 13p, and the accommodation itself which the guide book had suggested would be high, was actually the cheapest we had so far at only 350rs. Unfortunately this meant that every tout and rickshaw driver in town tried to get us to part with money as we walked along the streets. The hotel was basic but clean and in an excellent location. I got talking to the owner, an Indian chap named Daniel who was a retired electrical engineer on a cargo ship who had spent a month or so at Newcastle while his ship underwent maintenance; small world.

That evening, we went to have a look at the Chinese fishing nets which were on the water's edge. These massive constructions of wood and rope are used for lowering nets into the water, and lifting with the hope of netting some fish. A dozen or so lined the shoreline, and the produce was sold at a handful of market stalls lining the promenade with a variety of exotic sea creatures including massive tiger prawns and barracuda.

The next day we walked down to an old Dutch palace which contained some traditional Indian artefacts and pictures. A little incomplete in its restoration, but worth the Rs2 entrance fee. Following this we took a look at the nearby Jain temple. We had to remove our shoes to go in and unfortunately no photography was allowed but it was interesting the see the various shrines and idols of god that were within. The rules for entry were quite strict and included not allowing women who were menstruating, although how they would know is best left to the imagination.

In the evening, we went to see a kathakali performance which is Keralas traditional and unique form of ritualised theatre depicting the struggle between god and demons. With exotic costumes and face make-up, they enact stories without speaking, their intricate movements and body language telling the story to an intense drumbeat in the background. It was hard to follow but an enjoyable watch. We then had some dinner in a local restaurant and had an early night.

The following day we headed back over the the main part of the city via the ferry, checking in at a hotel near the railway station in order to catch an early train the next day. We ventured out into the city to find an ATM to replenish our cash stores and were delighted to find a supermarket, the first one we have seen since arriving in India. After stocking up on supplies for our long journey the next day, we spent the rest of the afternoon putting together a timetable for the rest of our time in India and relaxing before a long day of travelling ahead. The next day we are heading north for five hours on the train and then heading east 90km by bus (which will be our first bus journey - fingers crossed for a smooth experience) to get to Kalpetta and explore the wildlife sanctuaries of Wayanad (secretly hoping for some cooler weather up in the mountain).

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