The day began at 8am with another rude awakening from the city traffic; those drivers really do love their horns! We got up and went straight out on a quest to find food. We went to a spiral shape cafe designed by a British architect for breakfast which inside was a continuous upward spiral with seating booths around the edge. We found a table and ordered masala dosa: a crispy fried pancake wrapped up with potato curry inside. The food was good, especially as we were starving by this point and a bargain at only 19 rupees each. We went back to the hotel, packed up and left.
We bought train tickets to Varkala 50 minutes north and only 60 rupees for both of us, super cheap...but we found out why later. We hung around the station for an hour reading the guide book and deciding on somewhere to stay. The train pulled up on time and we got on. The tickets we bought were second class unreserved seats which are the lowest of the low. We didn't realise until we got there but reserved seats had to be booked in advance so this was our only option. Inside
the carriage, overcrowded would be the understatement of the century to describe it. All the seats were full, all the aisles were full and there were even people sitting on the luggage racks for space. We squeezed our way past the foul smelling toilets and into the aisle. We managed to take our packs off and stand them one on top of the other in-between the two of us and every time someone wanted to get past there would be a struggle for space. It really does defy belief how crowded the carriage was. I wanted to take a picture but it would have required a third or fourth arm in order to get the camera out of the bag so you'll just have to imagine.
50 minutes or so later, we rolled in to Varkala. I managed to help Stacey put her pack on and she managed to get off the train. My pack was in front of me and there was no way I could put it on and then turn around so for fear of being stuck on the train, I managed to lift the pack onto my head and climb past the people in the
aisles to escape the train. We sat on some seats on the platform to try and get our head together. Lesson learned. From now on, we book in advance to get reserved seats.
We then went straight to the reservation office to book our journey to Allepey in two days time. We tried to decipher the train timetable which was mostly in hindi, and only listed the final destination of each train and with no mention of the stations in between. Consulting the guide book, we figured out which route we needed and filled in the booking form Unfortunately, there are only two trains a day to Allepey one at 6:15 am and the other at 5:45pm. Needless to say we choose the latter.
With the booking reservation in our hands, we went outside to find a taxi. Our hearts sank as we looked outside, Varkala town was quite scruffy and run down. Most of the accommodation is a few miles outside of Varkala nearer to the beach so off we went in our taxi down a dusty and bumpy road.
We pulled up outside our hotel. PARADISE! A hundred meters from the cliff tops, Varkala beach
resort is set amongst a forest of banana plants and palm trees with hanging coconuts. To make things even better, it is out of tourist season so the rooms at the oceanic hotel are a steal at only 400 rupees per night. The room we got was quite large, with balcony and views of the sea. Finally things were coming together.
We unpacked and set up our impenetrable mosquito fortress before heading out for a wander along the cliff tops. A path run for a mile or so along the red cliffs of Varkala, which run down onto sandy beaches and blue seas. The path has many open air restaurants and shops running along one side with views of the sea on the other. Stacey was accosted by a young woman in a shop and ended up buying a nice green sarong. We went to the beach and watched the sunset over the Arabian Sea.
We found a restaurant and sat drinking pineapple juice and eating tasty kashmiri masala curry while looking over the bay. Although it was pricey in comparison to the food so far, it was still great value by British standards and a decent meal
was really needed by this point. After retiring to our room, we sat out on the balcony for a while to relax before going to sleep. We decided that this paradise was worth the nightmare train journey in the end.
After the best night sleep since we arrived, we left the comfort of our room and headed for the tourist 'strip' in search of breakfast. Due to the nature of the area, this task was easily fulfilled by patronising a cliffside restaurant called 'Kerala Coffee House'. Excellent views made up for the slow (unbelievably slow) service, looking out across the sun drenched sea and just about surviving the increasing heat. We ordered very conservative 'cornflakes, banana, milk' and coffee/tea and after being given the cups for our beverages, our food came 25 minutes later - just after the drinks themselves! My order obviously confused the waiter - I instead had a fruit medley with a few cornflakes strewn in under some yoghurt and honey. Very nice actually, and more attractive than Warren's (who helped me eat mine).
After a leisurely half hour finishing our drinks we wandered back along the cliff with the intention of finding one
of the many paths don to the beaches/rocks below. The first direction proved to be a poor choice for me as I had chosen to wear a skirt; the wind (although refreshingly welcome on the hot day) was giving the locals WAY too much to look at. Instead, we retraced our steps and headed to the area we had visited the previous night. The steps presented themselves (after missing them once!) and 50ish winding steps later we arrived on the small stretch of beach up the north end of the main drag.
The place was only playing host to a handful of other tourists like ourselves so we felt inconspicuous (for the first time in a while). The locals prefer the other end of the beach as it features in part of their spiritual worship, with our end of the beach being more acceptable for 'bare skin'. We found a spot and settled down. After applying sun cream and donning hats and sunglasses (sexy) we sat for some time reading and watching the huge waves come into shore. It appears to get deep fairly quickly, and lifeguards are quick to blow their whistle and prevent anyone from actually going
fully into the water (as they did to a few others there).
An hour was about enough for us before needing to cool down and, following the example of another couple, we went and sat at the water's edge to let the waves wash around us. This was fine until the unpredictable nature of the waves meant that several waves came at once and drenched us, with the strength of the pull back out to sea being tripled and practically pulling us over! (I will not go into details about the amount of sand left in our swimwear...)
We decided that a walk was in order, so packed up our stuff and made our way along a beaten path at the foot of the cliff. It was tricky in places but nicely cooling. Eventually, after reaching the main beach, we doubled back and climbed the steps to the thoroughfare. A shower was calling us :-)
The afternoon was whiled away with firstly a spot of washing and then reading, both of the fiction book I have brought with me and the travel guide; the next stage needed re-reading. Sitting on the balcony, although relaxing and decidedly fresher
than the stifling bedroom, brought with it flies. I am now a self certified fly killer. However, Warren's legs look a little redder from me swatting him as well as the flies! We have both got a little bit of sunburn - despite our best efforts - and will be covering up tonight before we go out for a meal at one of the fine eateries at our disposal. Off to Alleppy tomorrow and hope that the train journey goes a little smoother (and more comfortably) than the previous one!
Taking a year out and leaving England to travel the world! After 5 years in teaching for Stacey and the completion of a EngD for Warren, it is time a for a well earned break and to try new and adventurous things :-)... full info