china

---

After a long flight we finally arrived at 11pm Friday in Beijing. Our cab could not get into the area of our hotel due to city being closed off for some student exercise. 100,000 students had been brought in to practice for national day march on Oct 1 at 11pm at night. We had to go to another hotel at midnight. After driving us for nearly 80 minutes we had no idea how much to pay him but the hotel told us it was $25 US. He did not seem happy but they said that was right and he left.

Saturday: We were up early and moved to the Harmony Hotel as we had booked. They refunded our accommodation from the night before and the hotel was so much nicer: we were very happy. After checking in we walked to the Temple of Heaven and Harvest Hall which took us about 3 hours due to regular detours into back street hutongs. We also made a short shop at Pearl Markets for a shopping checkin. Changed money $1 Aus = approx 5.5Yuen or 1 Yuen = 20 cents.

Sunday took the metro to the Summer Palace (metro 5 and then metro 10; cost 2Y total) and walked about 15-20 minutes. Met a nice young swedish pair who were also walking from metro so we made our way there and chatted to them. They are working in Beijing for 8 weeks for Ericson. Walked all over palace for about 6 hours including boat ride across the lake. At one of the traditional market streets in the Summer Palace we had a scroll made for us which says "Harmony in Marriage". The chinaman who created the artwork was so lovely. After a full day we decided to catch the ferry as we left the Summer Palace (Y40) back to the hotel via bamboo gardens and zoo to exhibition centre. We then walked back to metro loop to take metro back to hotel. This was a great way to see more of the city which seems to have parks around every bend.

Monday: Today we were to meet up with tour group that afternoon so we spent the morning shopping via markets and mall near Tianamen Square and then came back to the Pearl markets for serious shop.
Met up with tour group at 5pm in the hotel. A total of 12 people mostly from Australia, Hungary and Portugal/London. Only two other couples. Ling is our tour leader and after paperwork and introductions we all went out for a great meal at her suggestion.

Tuesday: Our 25th Wedding Anniversary: 8am start and headed off on bus for 2 hour drive to Mutianyu section of Great Wall. We took the cable car up (35Y pp) and walked from gate 14 to 26 then back to gate 6 to catch the toboggan (40Y pp) back to the carpark. The wall is amazing with it continuing in every direction over far higher mountains. The weather was not crystal clear but at least we could see from our start point to destination and some of the farther mountains. I slept for the journey home.
When we returned we did a final shop at the Pearl Markets and boxed up our goodies to post to Shanghai (56Y). Ian and I walked to Wangfu st markets for dinner (90Y). Taxi back to hotel (10Y).

Wednesday: Our guide took us to Tianamen Square via the metro. We walked along the massive square and realised that no kites were being flown in this area as they are no longer allowed. there was a strong army presence. A man walked past us shouting out some sort of slogan and was quickly grabbed by the police and put into a paddy wagon. Ian tried to get the guards to talk to him but they would not and took a photo with his finger up Mao's nose. We walked on to the forbidden city. The area is quiet amazingly large. Emporer buildings had 9 animals on the roof capping while less animals meant less importance. there were originally 9999 rooms in the forbidden palace and 3000 concubines plus unichs. The Dragon Lady was the second concubine to the Emporer. Ian and I took our photo under one of the special joined trees which are meant to bring longevity to marriage. We tried to catch a taxi when we left the forbidden city but they would not take us saying it was an area where these taxi's could not go. eventually we got one but he tried to overcharge us (20Y). The tour group had to share two rooms for late checkout so we all took turns for showers and packed our bags ready for the night train to Xian. We had dinner just around the corner from the hotel in the hutong (1st right, then 1st restaurant on left 42Ypp). At 7.30 we took tour bus to train station about 45 mins away. The station was chaotic and there is no way we would have known where to go if we hadn't had Ling with us. Our train was to depart at 9.30. Each hard sleeper cabin had 6 beds in it. Ian and I shared with Ling and 3 other chinese men. We bought some hot beers on the train to help us sleep (15Y ea). After a couple of games of cards the train lights were turned off at 10.30 and we all got ready to sleep. I read till about 11.30 with my torch. Had a good night and slept till about 6.30 am.

Thursday: Got off train at 8.50 and walked about 700 metres to our bus. The bus took us straight to our hotel and we checked in. we then met about 10.30 for orientation walk through the cultural market and back to have lunch together. This feast included dumplings,, cucumber, fish, lamb and tomatoe, sticky rice balls with dates, beef hot pot, sweet potatoe in toffee, funghi and vegetables. (32Ypp). We then caught a local bus to the bus station and took tour out to the Terracotta Warriors. 13/4 hour bus ride. Jim our guide was not very informative. The Emporers tomb is said to still be untouched due to a mercury river protecting it. Bus back at 6.15 till 7.00. Went with Ling for dinner to market street. Kites were flying up to 60 metres per strip of kites. sometimes 2 or 3 were strung together. spectacular.

Friday: Early rise at 7.30 breakfast and on to the Xi-an city wall for a ride around the 14km (40Y for 100min bike hire plus 200Y deposit). So much to see as you ride along that we took the whole 100mins as we stopped repeatedly to look in the parks below at the people dancing, tai chi, whip cracking, bird walking and generally exercising. Ian even joined in a dance by climbing up on the wall for a mackarena type song. Ian also blew out his bike chain on a steep rise to the tower so had to swap it at the next rental point. Left for train at 11.30am. the train stations are so crowded and nothing is written in English so without a guide it would be very hard going and easy to get lost. Our train was delayed start but eventually got going. More cards and lots of drinking as we had so many daylight hours on this trip. Our cabins were more open and the train was not as new as previous one but still comfortable. I didn't sleep as well this time but Ian slept well as he had more drinks to help him sleep.

Saturday: Our train was meant to arrive at Chengdu at 5.30am but was delayed until 10am. Short walk to our bus and then straight to our hotel to check in. So pleased to have a shower and clean up. Our hotel was on a really pretty traditional chinese street but the place smells musty from the weather. Nothing dries in Chengdu as the humidity is too high and the smog is bad too. Chengdu is famous for its produce including tea. We went out for lunch and city orientation. Another feast (38Y). The flavours are so awesome. After orientation walk I went for a 2 hour Thai massage (120Y). Dinner was a local hot pot which is a dish in the middle of table where you cook all your food. Chengdu is known for its spicy hot pot. Too hot for us !!! Went to a local bar for drinks.

Sunday: 6am Ian and I went to the local park to do some Yoga. still dark but many people were walking and doing tai chi. Ian hurt his knee. We had to leave at 9am to take bus to Leshan to see the Grand Buddah cliff statue. The boat ride left the warf at midday but the smog was thick on the river and after 1 hour return trip we got back on the bus to head to Mt Emei. The Bagou monaster was our first monastery accommodation and was beautiful. They charge 8Y entry and rooms are 40Y pp but this was included for us. You can also buy vegetarian dinner with the monks 10Y pp. Our local guide met us and after booking into our rooms he took us to a local farm for lunch. Ian was not feeling well so stayed at the monastery. Lunch was fantastic with fabulous local vegetable dishes and meat stir fries. I got a takeaway meal prepared for Ian and took it back to the monastery. I forgot alcohol and meat are not allowed in the monastery so Ian ate it in the park across the road. The shower was a donkey hot water shower outside which was clean but very basic. It was great to have a shower as it was very humid. The rooms were very traditional and Ian and I joined the monks for dinner. We had a late card game with Tess and Keith and went to bed about 10.

Monday: Bells started at 4am and chanting at 4.30. It was so relaxing. Up at 6 for a shower and then breakfast at 6.30 which our guide brought to us (eggs in bread, banana and tea for 12Y each). A new guide arrived at 7am to take us on our trip up Mt Emei. We took a day pack only for our overnight trek and walked into town and caught the bus for 2+ hours up the mountain and then a cable car the final distance to the summit at 3600metres. Finally we were above the clouds! A further walk for about 20 minutes found us at the Golden Buddah which was built only three years ago. Three buildings painted Silver, Gold and Bronze can be seen from mountains around giving off their metalic glow. We then caught the bus back down the mountain to the beginning of our trek. The trek took us through the old monastery track within the national park and was such a spectacular walk including the monkeys along the trail. It was a long and hard walk for 2 hours including over 1000 steps in the final section that led to Hongchunping monastery. Ian's knee was really swollen by the time we reached the top at 1000m and I was a lather of sweat. We bought an ice block to use as a cold pack for his knee and Ian arranged with local cafe owner 'Betty' for me to help with cooking dinner. After booking in we were shown around the monastery which was much older than our previous one and included loo's with a view and communal showers. It was great to freshen up and we are getting to know each other pretty well anyway. We went back down the hill a little way to the Hard Wok Cafe for dinner. This family live on the side of the mountain and hike everything up here on their back including the freezer and fridge! The kitchen and cafe sit on the side of the cliff so as we cooked we looked directly out into the valley. Pigs, chickens and vegetables grew on small plots carved into the hill just below us. It was so spectacular. I helped to cook my 2 dishes for dinner (fried eggs and tomato plus pork, vegetable and peanut stir fry plus 1 beer and 2 waters (61Y). Ian was feeling too unwell to join us. Back to monastery for bed and to listen to one of the monks chanting for about 1 hour. I taped his chanting as it was so soothing.

Tuesday:We had a thunderstorm overnight and it felt as though the lightening was pretty close as one of the thunder cracks was so loud. These monasteries are all hundreds of years old wood so a lightening strike is very dangerous. Chanting started at 5.30 so we were up at 6.30 and did a bit of yoga. Ian feeling pretty sore and a little sick. Met everyone back at the Hard Wok for banana and honey pancake breakfast which were fabulous. As we walked back down the mountains we came across a pack of monkeys which were pretty aggressive. One jumped on Amanda's pack and one pulled at Lings pack looking for food. We all had walking sticks to push the monkeys away so we eventually got through unscathed but a little more scared of the monkeys than we had been previously. We split up after about 1 hours walking down and Ian and Ling went back the way we had come and the rest of us took an alternative route back to Bagou Monastery. It took us through farms and villages along the mountain. Another long climb up before heading back down the valley. We saw tea trees, bamboo plantations, and lots of other crops and nunneries along the way. A total of 5 hours and we were back at Bagou and caught up with Ian. The nunneries were interesting in that they were painted different colours to the monasteries and were much neater. Last year a 20 year old nun died when she fell off the roof when trying to fix the tiles which had broken from the earthquake. Ian continued to struggle to keep going and we walked with Ling and some of the group to our guides restaurant in town. We had Duck, rabbit, chicken mushrooms, vege dishes (28Y pp). Beers are only 7Y. Walked back to the monastery and played Euka with Tess and Keith. Ian started to get a temperature during the night so we started him on antibiotics.

Wednesday: Chanting started at 5.30 and by 8am Ian was really feeling unwell. I packed all our gear as we were leaving and Brett carried Ian's pack to the bus. We had a three hour drive back to Chengdu so Ian slept the whole way. When we arrived Ian went straight to bed and stayed there for the day. I met Monika, Malcolm, Amanda and Brett for lunch and we walked about half hour to find a dumpling restaurant. Bowl of good dumplings 12Y beer 7Y. Came back to check on Ian and then went for another Thai Massage (120Y for 2 hours). Walked through the local gardens. Met group for dinner but Ian didn't join us. Everyone came back to the hotel for drinks and we played cards in the courtyard and drank Great Wall wine. Tess started a game where the full pack of cards are balanced on the top of the wine bottle. The cork is burnt so that it is ashen. Each person takes a turn to blow off as few cards possible and then the person who blows off the last card gets a cork ash rub on their forehead. It was so funny when Jan kept blowing off all the cards. She had at least 5 cork marks. I ended up with three and most had at least one. What a great night! Poor Ian missed out and still felt like shit.

Thursday:

Friday: Up at 5am for 5.30 departure from hotel. Chengdu airport was bigger than I expected and for some reason we seemed to travel there via back roads. Boarded plane at 8am but our plane was delayed so the hostesses proceeded to serve us our meal while we sat on the tarmac. Very bizzare! The plane was empty so most of our group managed to get window seats and we finally took off 1 1/2 hours late. We were able to see Gongga Shan Mountain (7556m) as we flew west and finally arrived in Kunggar at 11am. Bus ride to Lhasa took one and half hours along the river road. We passed through a massive tunnel to traverse the mountain range which was more than a kilometre long. Coming into Lhasa was so amazing and seeing the Potala Palace made everything feel like waking from a dream. I have so longed to see this place that I almost felt like I needed to pinch myself. Our hotel is in the middle of the Bakhor which the Tibetan market and about 20-30 minute walk from the Potala Palace.

Saturday: We went to watch the monks debating today. it was lots of fun as they sit in the courtyard under the shade of the trees and learn through debate and recall of historical accounts and buddist scripture recall. The debating is such an animated process but has been used as a traditional learning style for centuries.

Sunday: Today we visited the Jokhang Temple and the Potala Palace. The Jokhang is one of the oldest temples in Tibet and the most visited by the tibetan people. Many of the original buddist scriptures are kept here and as it was built in the 7th Century AD there was so much rich history to take in. The Potala Palace was breathtaking in so many was. First you have to climb the stairs to the entry and then there are so many rooms to walk through including chapels, caves, temples and the seat of the Dalai Lama. It was amazing to see all the solid gold, silver and bronze tombs. It was similar to the misgivings we felt when we saw the extreme wealth of the Vatican; as these are such a poor people. The palace really is a one of the wonders of the world! I am still in awe of its beauty and the view from our hotel rooftop is spectacular especially as the sun rises over the mountains and hits the palace early morning.

Monday: One of our group has fallen to altitude sickness. A young arming guy Brett from NSW who had helped to carry Ian's bag when he was sick. He is still suffering and Ling has taken him to the Lhasa hospital for treatment. We all thought he would be the most likely to suffer as he is very active and had trouble taking it easy. He had also been sick in Chengdu but had tried to keep going and didn't rest like Ian did.

Today the rest of us visited a blind school to meet with the children. The school takes in about 50 blind children who live in for 5 years to learn english, braille, maths, tibetan, chinese and massage. They are aged from about 7 years to 18 years. Ian sat with the boys and tried to fix their yo yo and we saw them in lessons and learning to use the braille typewriter. it was such a wonderful and humbling experience. I have encouraged our entire group to save all their toothbrushes and combs from the hotel rooms as we have been travelling so we are going to donate them to the next blind school we visit as it does not get as many tourist visiting it and needs more donations.

We also had momo (meat or vegetable dumpling which is steamed or fried) cooking lessons which were great fun. Ian managed to make every shape of momo other than the ones we were taught which was a great amusement for our chef. We then cooked them and had some ourselves but we had made so many that the guys took them out onto the streets to give them to the locals. They were very well received.

We also we to a cultural show dinner which was really funny. the local tibetan dancers and singers were very good but they included a Yak dancer which harrassed us all during our dinner try to spear us with his horns.

Tuesday: Brett has had to be medi evacuated today back to Chengdu. The doctor was flying up this morning to take him back. He had pulmonary oedema and they were worried about cerebral oedema which is why they were keen to get him back to low altitude.

Good news is Ian is feeling much better and we are both taking it easy to avoid altitude sickness. His knee is holding up so long as he doesn't push it too hard.

Janet and I walked through various neighbourhoods mixing with the people for a few hours while Ian read and watched the passing traffic. It was so much fun, but we managed to totally loose ourselves as we took so many turns in the back streets. We finally hailed a rickshaw to peddle us back to the hotel as we continued laughing at how totally lost we were.

---

Photos

Summer Palace
Marriage Scroll made for us

Great Wall
Our group

25th Anniversary
Great Wall of China

Tianamen Square
Ian get's Mao's point!

Xi-an
Riding around the city wall

Mt Emei
Monastery accommodation

Hongchunping Monastery
Trek 2 hours up more than 1000 steps

Potala Palace
Sunrise from our hotel rooftop

Blind School
Ian tries to fix the yo-yo

Potala Palace
so much history to soak up