Reasons I'm Madly in Love with Saigon

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To start with, I would just like to point out that I'm currently no longer in Saigon, but instead on a tropical island paradise. I've just waited until now so that I can fit in everything I want to, plus I figured there's nothing like relaxing on a beach to give you some time to think. And don't worry, I'll be sure to write a blog with the sole purpose of making everyone jealous of my little paradise here, just not doing it yet.

So this is why I'm in love with Saigon:

I loved the ride from the airport into the city and my first encounter with the mad traffic that is Saigon. It's kind of the same style of driving as Kigali or maybe Rome, only you have to multiply the numbers by about 30 and add in the fact that about 90% of the vehicles are motos (like a little more powerful moped). Insane would be a very modest way to describe it. Seeing the city itself also grabbed my interest - 1/3 kind of shabby, 1/3 new and nice, 1/3 under construction.

Even more than that ride, I loved sitting in our hotel for 30 minutes as Rachel stared around with the look on her face of total, utter culture shock.

I loved our hotel search. As we pulled up to the alley that our potential guesthouse was in, a random old woman in pink pajamas walked up to us and directed us to the exact location. They were full, so this woman then proceeded to chauffer us from guesthouse to guesthouse until we settled on a place. Why? No idea. She didn't ask for money or anything. A little strange.

I loved the guesthouse we settled on. Probably the type of place you have nightmares about while traveling in America, but there wasn't really anything terrible about it, and it suited me just fine. Situated down an alley far far away from any of the tourist gathering spots and hotel streets, surrounded by the daily life of locals, with a tiny little balcony to view it all from. Sure the air conditioning was a little suspect, the beds were more like sponges, the bathing apparatus was just a shower head to use as you stood right in front of the toilet, and there may have been a little bit of an ant problem. But I didn't feel like I was lording my wealth over anybody, got to see what residents of Saigon live like, and it cost us $12 a night total.

I looooooved the street food. Everywhere you look, everywhere you walk, glorious street food. Incredibly fresh, screaming with flavor and color, bought for a pittance (always less than $1).

I particularly loved the BBQ man outside our guesthouse. It was my first true experience with the street food here, and it was amazing. The man was signaling to me to try it before I walked away with it, supposedly so I could make sure it was OK. I think he secretly knew it was delicious, and just wanted to see my reaction. Either way, when I busted into a huge smile and thumbs up and groans of pleasure after the first bite, I think it made his evening.

I love how cheap I can get by here. We had dinner on the 14th floor of one of the ritziest hotels in the city and it cost about the same as a dinner at Anyrestaurant, USA. A taxi anywhere is ~$1. Of course, this cheapness also makes you wonder about the inequalities you're seeing, but that's probably good too.

I love the motos. Like a ubiquitous, insectile swarm that flies by and around you, constantly weaving as they narrowly miss you by inches, droning on and on and on. I love the fact that they are driven through spaces almost too narrow to walk through. They're like another pair of feet. Part of me can't help but feel like it's incredibly dangerous... but I don't mind. I see motos as a sort of celebration of everyone's success here. They all have the ability to own one now, and they're most definitely going to use it every chance they get.

I love the smiles everyone gives me. So welcoming. Maybe not from everyone I guess... but who am I to blame anyone 40+ years old if the sight of me brings back memories they'd rather forget?

I love the air of a city that's moving forward, enjoying new successes all the time, and just having an all-around positive atmosphere. Reminds me of Kigali, and obviously I love that.

I love the leftovers from the French: bakeries, cafes, and architecture. Sometimes an uncomfortable reminder of colonialism, but I think that's important. Plus, the banh mi is the ultimate in sandwiches, and it's a Vietnamese creation taken straight from French influence.

I love the visuals of the city. Architecture, ao dais (traditional dress), conical hats. Narrow spaces, cramped quarters, blooming construction. People squatting smiling laughing sleeping drinking staring eating chatting.

I love Vietnamese coffee as it slowly drips onto condensed milk.

I love seeing couples getting married on a Saturday night, even though I hate the fact that I could eat at their fancy wedding dinner location without a second thought for price.

I love the lights of the city from the 14th floor of a downtown hotel.

I love a market where you can buy everything you can imagine, and where bartering is simply a game everyone plays... always with a smile. And I love Rachel's completely overwhelmed expression after first walking through, and thoroughly baffled look at attempting to barter.

I love the daily routine.
Early morning activity. People out buying the days supplies. Women cooking for family and neighbors. Hearty breakfast. Dishes need to be washed. On with the day. Stop for lunch - big lunch. Lull in activity after noon as the day continues. Excitement as the work day ends, people meeting with people and making appearances. Quiet for a lighter dinner. Time to relax with family. Nighttime is for friends. Sleep before too late, everything is starting again tomorrow at dawn.

Yeah, it does sound pretty cool.

Now I'm off to the beach again for some hardcore relaxing. Blogging can be exhausting when the only other activity you've been doing is walking between the beach and your hotel restaurant.

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Comments

[Leah]

Camera?
Sounds like Paradise at Lake Kivu! Sounds like there is plenty of variety in everyday life..just like the way you are both soaking all that in! Is your camera also hidden on this trip?

[jrive]

camera
Glad to know you're reading it! Sadly my sister doesn't even really have a decent camera so I have no choice but to take more pictures this time... I'm gradually getting used to it though.

[Hung]

Amazing writing
Hi Josh, I've read a couple of your blogs and wow, you're an amazing writer. Your writing is full of depth, soul, insight, earnest, humanity, reflection, worldliness, understanding, poignancy, sincerity, and much more...Not sure what you're studying at Iowa State, but I sincerely wish you all best wishes.