the big city

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On Canada day we arrived in Phnom Penh (the capital of Cambodia). It was rather bizarre to be away from home on this day (no fireworks and no Canada Day Betty Crocker cake with the maple leaf made out of strawberries). We got on the bus in Siem Reap around 9 am but didn't get to Phnom Penj until dinner time. Why is that you ask? We had another flat tire (I'm beginning to sense a common South East Asian theme). At least this time the driver had the smarts to pull into a garage where there were people who knew how to deal with a flat bus tire. Adam and I waited patiently in the bus and then decided to hunt around for some snacks. We ended up eating three mini-bananas each because we were in a remote town that didn't have "pre-packaged" food. We've learned out lesson and have stocked up on snacks for future bus rides.

Our last day in Siem Reap went well. We explored the Royal Palace and the Royal Gardens. We only ended up doing the Angkor Ruins for one day. After putting in 7 hours on the first day we were all watted out. This was for the better anyways because tickets into the wat are 25 USD a day (which was cutting into the budget in a major way). Just to put that in perspective, we only pay 5 USD each for accommodations in a hotel with hot water, air conditioning and cable tv. So they are making a killing on those entrance fees. Kind of like Disney World, just without the rides, and a lot more begging children.
On our last night in Siem Reap we discovered a Swessens. I had never heard of Swessens before, but apparently it's an American ice cream chain. We stopped on our way back to the hostel and got a couple of ice cream cones. As we're walking along the river we were swarmed by three kids (one that was an amputee on crutches) asking for money. Now I'm sure at this point Adam and I sound like heartless assholes for not giving them money. However, from locals we've talked to, they said that giving them money encourages begging and that the children never get to keep the money anyways. While in Siem Reap we ate at number of restaurants where all the proceeds go to support the community, etc. Plus, if you give to one, you have to give to all of them. Anyways, these three kids ask us for money and we kindly tell them "sorry, no thank you" etc. They follow us for a bit. Jokingly, not expecting one of the kids to understand, Adam says "what, you want a lick of my ice cream?". The kid with the missing leg on crutches nodded his head and leaned in to have a lick. Adam, reacting in his usual food-protective way, pulled his cone away and said "no way, are you crazy". So, Adam and I had no choice but to go back to Swessens and buy three more ice cream cones, one for each of our three little friends. I was convinced if we didn't, we (more specifically Adam) would have bad karma for the rest of our lives. We now walk around with a bag of cookies to give to the kids instead, it's also more convenient and less expensive.

So far we are really enjoying Phnom Penh. We heard a lot of stories from other travellers that it was a big bad city. Turns out we like "big bad" cities. It's nice to be somewhere that has some of the comforts of home. Yesterday we went to the Tuol Sleng torture museum. It's a high school that was converted into a torture prison in 1975 by the Khmer Rouge. It was really interesting to learn about the reign of the Khmer Rouge. We have a lot better understanding about the current economical, social and political situation in Cambodia after visiting the museum. Today we are going to go to the "killing fields" where 1.2 million Cambodians are buried. It's where they buried all the doctors, teachers, intellectuals and city people. Should be really moving.

Cambodia has been an interesting place to be so far because there is so much change going on. They're really working hard to abolish child prostitution and trafficking. I haven't seen any signs of that happening at all (I also haven't been looking for it). They have an NGO called child-safe, where you can report any suspicious activity. It's desirable for business to be "approved" by child-safe and to have their sticker in the window. We only go to restaurants and stores who have that sticker and ride with tuktuks that wear the child-safe pin. To be child-safe certified, all the employees have to go through a training on how to identify child prostitution and what to do if you suspect it. It's amazing to see a grassroots organization like that and to hear people talk about wanting to keep "their children" (ie. the country's children) safe.

You'll be happy to know that we are balancing out the emotionally heavy aspects of the trip with good food. The other night we went for some fantastic Indian (you have to mix it up once in a while). There is apparently quite a few Indians living in Cambodia (according to the owner). When we were talking to the owner and where he was from, another Westerner piped in wanting to know more. The man then proceeded to ask the owner if he had seen Slumdog Millionaire and wanted to know if it was accurate. I wanted to slap this man and ask him if American Pie was accurate depiction of where he called home. The owner politely responded that he had seen the movie and enjoyed it. End of conversation (big shock, I know).

Tomorrow we are taking the bus to Shihanoukville where there is a BEACH (I know!) called Serendipity beach. We are going to be there a couple of days before we head to Vietnam (visas in hand, we got them yesterday).

More from the beach.

Love Nicole/Poke/Coco
xoxoxo

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