Taos Trekkers Take Tikkedhunga

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We’re sitting in a cybercafe overlooking a very busy square in the medieval city of Bhaktapur---chanting and bells to run off the demons---but more on that later. Let me catch you up to this point.
The first 2 days we were on a “Himalayan Highway”—a trail of commerce linking the distant villages in the mountains to civilization. Our first day of the trekking was absolutely fascinating with multiple mule caravans going and coming from high up near the Mustang area near Tibet (about 9 days trekking to give you an idea of distance). We frequently had to pull over on the trail for large herds of goats and sheep on their way to the dinner table in lower villages. While waiting for our first lunch experience, we witnessed a water buffalo freak out at our backpacks propped beside the trail and knockdown the embarrassed Nepali woman prodding him on. We crossed swinging bridges over picturesque waterfalls, climbed step after step after step after step (can’t really complain, our 2 porters did it with a smile). Our first night was in a village called Tikkedhunga, clinging to the steep hillsides as they all do. We met 2 Americans and a Canadian woman that had just finished the Everest Base Camp trek. It made our trek feel like a day at the beach. However the 2nd day was the hardest---from Tikkedhunga to Ghorepani—over 3000 steps and 6 hours straight UP. The steps and the beauty took our breath away. Ghorepani (8750 feet) was already in the afternoon shadows, but the Annapurnas were fully glowing in the late sun. Hot shower?? Please? We begged. “Yes of course, no problem!!”(famous words of 3rd world countries that don’t want to disappoint you or tell you they don’t know) Ghorepani and neighboring villages had been without electricity for 9 months, so we had solar heated lukewarm-at-best showers.
No problem!! It was a luxury we really hadn’t expected anyway. The next morning, Malia, Rebecca and Leslie hiked 45 minutes up to Poon Hill (9630 ft) at 5am in the dark for the “must see” sunrise on the Annapurnas. We shared this enlightening moment with about 50 other half asleep, freezing trekkers. We had heard that on our descent from Poon Hill might be our first Maoist rebel encounter---they would ask for a “donation” and issue us a receipt—no harm done, however we were joined upon Poon Hill by the local Nepalese Army regiment killing our opportunity to get our picture taken with the rebels. Oh well. We took a day of rest at Ghorepani. The girls continued to plug through their major pile of homework the whole day. Leslie read a big chunk of the
Snow Leopard and Tim hiked up to Poon Hill when no one else was up there…peaceful.
At night when the sun dropped we huddled inside the guest house around a fire with other porters and trekkers from around the world, playing cards, eating popcorn and drinking Nepalese tea and beer (yep, imported for 2 days on a mules back—never tasted better!) Nights are below freezing—thank goodness for tea house blankets and pillows—our sleeping bags alone weren’t warm enough. Morning comes early with the international phlegm-clearing-teahouse-chorus through the plywood walls, but the view from our beds of those snowcapped peaks is a pure moment of inspiring reverence---never to be forgotten. After a breakfast of either hot porridge with apples or eggs with potatoes and Tibetan bread and tea, of course, we set out for another day of up and down east towards the village of Tadapani (not the hot springs—another one).
Well the sacred bells of Bhaktapur are ringing, and it’s time to go explore…..stay tuned for more adventures on the trek and journey of the weary and delirious Taos Five.

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Photos

Pony Train
A Pony Train in between Tikkedhunga and Ghorepani.

Ulleri
A rest stop.

Sunrise
Rebecca and Malia at Poon Hill.

Little Girl
"Namaste"

Last Stretch
Trekking on the trail.

Local Ladies
Local Nepali women on the trail from Ghandruk.

Comments

[Howie]

A Large Time!
What an opportunity. Thanks for including me. I wish I were there!!I look forward to you adventures. I'll have to make a trip to Taos to see all the pictures!Take care. Love Howie

[elaine]

awesome reporting!
I can't thank you enough for the reports and photos on the blog! And I'm really looking forward to hearing all the "in between" details and stories when you get home! Luv Ya!(Keep your layers handy, its winter here!) -elaine

[Biil in AK]

King of Curds
Great stuff-make sure you try some delicious curd/yogurt in Bhaktapur(the "king of curds"). Keep up the great logs!