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Published: April 1st 2008
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Three weeks on the road. Laos, Cambodia and Thailand laid out before me. The plan was to choose just one place in each country and experience it deeply, not flitting about and merely skimming the surface. But after three weeks, incredible though the experience was, deep and abiding as it was, I had still really only skimmed the surface. Of an incredible part of the world.
When I took the job in India, for some reason, travel in Asia was not an important part of my decision. Asia had never drawn my attention the way Latin America and Africa and Eastern Europe had. But I found an beautiful adventure in South East Asia in a warm and welcoming culture.
Even my one day in Bangkok where I was to meet up with my friend Eric for the trip, was beyond my wildest imaginings. We wandered from Wat (Buddhist temple) to Wat as the sun set, we plied the waters of the Chao Praya River, we wandered the nooks and crannies of the Soi (alleys) near our hotel. I didn't expect much - it's a big city and I was eager for the rural adventure. But Bangkok retains a sense
of neighborhood and intimacy in the midst of its hustle and bustle!
Luang Prabang is the heart Northern Laos' tourist scene. And while it definitely knows how to cater to the tourist with trekking and river expeditions, elephants for the riding and mountain bikes for the renting, it's highlight by far was the abundance of Wats and the monks and novices that inhabit them. As we wandered from one to another, breathing deeply of the gentle pace of life and admiring the incredible architecture, we were always greeted by group of novices eager to make new friends, learn more of the world outside Laos and practice their English. Most of these boys and young men are from rural districts throughout Northern Laos - areas where the educational opportunities are limited and often expensive. Many of them are farmer's children, an occupation that might put food on your table but is back breaking and not financially rewarding. I learned that quickly after the first time I expressed my admiration for farming as I know it back home, only to be informed of the challenges and difficulties it brings to life here. Among other things, the fields that you work might
be 20 kilometers away from your home! Farming can be an all week job, sleeping in a hut by your field and going home to see your family one day a week! So, many of these Buddhist novices that I was meeting held a dream. For a better life. For themselves. And for their younger brothers and sisters, who they are responsible for in this intricate family structure. Because as a novice they are given a free education, an education that is often superior to that available in the public school. Public schools where you must buy your own books and uniforms - two expenses that often disqualify a youngster from even being able to go to school!
The routines of the Wats are simple and predictable, bringing simplicity to life. Early morning, the residents of Luang Prabang (along with quite a few tourists) line the streets, each with their bucket of food. The food is alms to offer the monks and novices as they weave up and down the roads of the town. Each Wat in its own line and on its own mission, single file, accepting the offerings so freely given. And occasionally returning a gift to
someone in greater need who has offered up what little they had. Neatness is treasured and sweeping the Wat and its grounds, doing laundry tend to fill the morning until school classes begin. We would often run into novices later in the day, studying out under a tree on the temple grounds. And the conversations could meander gently to and fro for hours. Late afternoon brought the Wat back together for chanting and meditation. An audience always seemed to be welcome. I often spent that evening time kneeling in the rear of the Wat, surrounded by the sounds of the chanting. Occasionally recording. Always treasuring. And then, later in the evening, somewhat incongruously, the novices would descend upon the internet cafes of Luang Prabang. The sight of a hoard of young novices wrapped in their flowing orange and saffron robes all huddled around the computer screen was sometimes a shock. And no matter how many times I politely asked, it definitely was not an activity in which they wanted to have their picture taken!
Angkor Wat, the incredible complex of Wats, temples, ruins near Siem Reap, Cambodia was our next stop on this slow and deep tour. Over and
over I felt like I was living in the world of Johnny Quest. The architecture, the jungle, the sense of isolation and intimacy with a deeply spiritual place. Well, intimacy at least in the early morning! As the tour buses start rolling in, the character changes quite a bit! It was good that Eric and I traveled slow and easy, hiring Sun as the driver of our motorcycle rickshaw (read motorcycle pulling a two person trailer). We putter along from place to place, stopping when and where we wanted. Marveling at the incredible main complex with its towering spires and intricate passageways. Watching the sunset from atop Phnom Bakheng in such a silent and spiritual setting despite sharing the experience with a1000 or so of our new found closest friends. Venturing out in the early morning to the amazing ruins of Ta Prohm, where it seems a centuries long wrestling match is underway. A match in which the ruins are slowly losing to the trees and their massive root systems. Roots flow like water, in and out, over and around, grasping and strangling the man made marvel. We're nearly alone there, save the array of birds singing their discontent with
our presence.
And at so many of the stops during our days wandering from ruin to ruin, we hear so much traditional Cambodian music played by live bands, seated in the shade near the trail. So many of the musicians are blind. Or missing hands, arms, legs. All are victims of land mines. Needless to say, I listen a lot, donate freely and buy a lot of CDs. I think not only of the value that a devastated farmer can find as he learns a new trade, a new art, that his crippled body can perform. I think too of the expression, the sprit set free as it makes music, even as the broken body sits there performing.
The final week of the adventure finds us in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Compared to anywhere else we've been since Bangkok, this feels like a big city. But its Sunday, market day, family day. Then, 6 PM, at the height of the shopping frenzy where it seems ever street in the city has become a street market, we suddenly realize how intimate and quaint this town really is. The realization comes as suddenly loudspeakers all around begin blaring the national anthem.
The city comes to an absolute dead stop. Respectfully, every person proudly and silently stands, listening. The anthem is followed by an address by the King. The audience remains reverentially silent. I notice movement out of the corner of my eye. But its only a dog! The speech finishes and the shopping frenzy is re-ignited! But boy, this country loves their King. You see it with the huge percentage of the population who wear their yellow polo shirt with the King's insignia on it every Monday. By the banner joyfully proclaiming 'Long Live the King' in so many public settings - including the airport gangplanks!
Chiang Mai is set up wonderfully for tourism also. And while I loved the day long cooking class - and continue to enjoy the cook book I got . . . . . . and I also loved the three day trek that took us to traditional villages to see centuries old traditions - including the bamboo rafting trip that finished the trek . . . . . . and while I truly treasured my final meal there, at Mikes Hamburger 'converting vegetarians since 1979' . . . . . . . . the
highlight once again was the experience of Wat after Wat. The gentle spiritual people. The chanting. The conversations. Intelligent conversations. Of spiritual import. Of peace.
Despite the view that I came to India with, of a gentle land based on Gandhi's spirit of peaceful resistance, of people practicing yoga, I do not often find peace here. But at least I return to Mumbai, and work and routines with an incredible peace from three weeks on the road in Laos, Cambodia and Thailand.
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Jenn
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Turning Green
As usual I am insanely jealous. Partly because we still have 4 days til spring break. But your adventures are always fascinating (personal experience speaking there) and your pictures are awesome. I miss you!