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hu2tong4
an example of the hu2tong4 of Beijing, which at their height numbered as high as 6,000. Hello friends and family alike! It’s me, Devin, writing to you from Hong2Qiang2Fan4Dian4 (Red Wall Hotel) in Jing3Shan1, a zone in Beijing, fairly central, just several blocks from the Forbidden City itself, as well as Tiananmen Square. I thought I would keep you up to date from time to time on my life here in China for the next 7 months (sorry if I forgot to mention it!), so I hope you all benefit from my observations and the experiences I hope to accumulate here in the capitol of the PRC!
After traveling back in time, racing the sun to first Narita airport in Tokyo, Japan and then falling behind it, I arrived in Beijing, China, the locus of a state that has come under increasing international focus; I found a dark, grey, and surprisingly familiar-looking urban landscape. At times during the taxi ride, while liao2tian1-ing (conversing) with the si1ji1 (taxi driver), and his (currently) incomprehensible Beijing “er” accent, I took in big buildings and gargantuan glass office complexes, aware of the implications behind their ever-increasing and presence. These banks and tech company headquarters are rapidly replacing Beijing’s old hu2tong4, winding and snaking alleyways characteristic of Beijing and a component
of its long history. These quaint and dusty alleyways are filled with small family-owned shops and homes and the names of streets often times reflect the families whose homes predominate or began the lanes to begin with. I walked down one today, and a young boy played with his remote control formula 1 car, was quite friendly and conversational, but was unfortunately averse to me taking his picture, and this is the reason that you all can not partake in his likeness. Concrete and dirt were also abound and in full force, the further towards the center of the city I was driven into. I surprisingly received a fair fare from the taxi driver (73 kuai4~$10ish), perhaps because of the conversation I initiated, and how hao3qi4 (curious) I was about his life and opinions of zhong1guo2 (China’s) zui4jin4 (most recent) jing1ji4de (economic) fa1zhan3 (economic development), as a taxi driver, struggling to make it in the cramped and congested city of Beijing. Everyone here thus far has been quite friendly and hospitable, perhaps too much so (see street vendors and rickshaw drivers).
Today I ventured out into the local area, having read through a bunch of my (awesome) Lonely Planet China
guidebook, and visited Jing3Shan1gong1yuan2 (Jing Shan park) with some of my fellow study abroad students, whom I met for the first time the night prior, shortly after arrival at the hotel. After paying our 2 kuai for entry and witnessing lao3ren2 (old people-women and men) dancing in anaerobic fashion to a ripped-off track of Numa-Numa (yeah, that eurotrash crase of late), with Chinese dubbing, we hiked up to the top of Jing Shan. At the top of this modestly tall, but nonetheless beautiful peak, we peeped a view of the Forbidden City in the near distance. I found the view quite poignant, facing South from the northern hilltop (in ancient times, North was considered to be representative of the heavens), seeing not so much the Forbidden City itself, but the construction, both in my near foreground and distant middle ground; as I strained to see the Forbidden City through the smog and hase of this burgeoning industrial powerhouse of an urban dwelling (which will be home to my lungs for the next 7 months!) I was continuously drawn back to the workers renovating and building on the lower pathway that surrounded the highest temple of Jing Shan. Zai4shuo1 (what’s more),
The Focus
notice the backseat that the ancient city takes the very entrance to the Forbidden City was covered from head to toe in a cool and calm construction green. After various other minor escapades we all went to a local huo3guo1 (“hot pot”) eatery, shared a very large tsingdao and had scrumptious hot pot (akin to the French “fondue,” but spicy).
I had to vacate early in order to trek back to the airport, and, as study abroad program assistant, greet the last remainder of students coming in. That took about 4 or 5 hours out of my life. However, since my summer professor, who I met during this task’s short but aggravating life, decided to show up and meet students as well, I got to know her (professor Yue4), and swap English and Chinese language idioms, etc…the time passed fairly quickly. I actually ate Kendeji (Kentucky Fried Chicken) for the first time ever with professor Yue and her boss professor Wang2, and I gotta say that it wasn’t that bad.
And then I returned, only to wait in anticipation of climbing the Great Wall tomorrow. We have to drive out further than we usually would, since professor Jian3 is being very generous with us and showing us a
Symmetry
there was a constant thundering chorus coming from down below in this direction, which the guys of the group and myself trekked down to witness. apparently it occurs every sunday, people just gathering to be led by a conductor in singing popular (nationalistic, from what i gathered) songs. less seen/unseen portion of the wall that is not half as busy as the other option. Well, I think I’ve drowned you in enough digital ink for now, and I’m fallin’ asleep at the wheel (keyboard) here. I hope all is well, take care,
Devin C. Mawdsley. (Mo4 Hong2lei2)
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Jennifer
non-member comment
Glass View
Devin - I will be following your blog quite closely during your journeys in the Far East... your commentary on the little details you've encountered so far have certainly illuminated your focus on certain facets of the larger picture here. It will be interesting to see the PRC through your eyes and what comes of that. In the meantime, I hope you have a FANTASTIC time. Make friends, eat food, be you. Peace, my friend, Jen