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Published: February 26th 2019
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India, Days 4 & 5 Saturday /Sunday
The Explore group got together at 3ish on Saturday afternoon. A dozen of us in all, quite a nice size. One couple - our ageish - from Staffs (he, Geoff, is a Wolves fan so Pip is very pleased about that; they have lots to talk about), an early 50s guy and his mother from Oxford/London, 4 ladies from Norfolk (with partners left at home ?), a lady from Dublin and a South African lady domiciled in UK for 20+ years.
Various stories about the travel over eg the 'mother' had her luggage left at Heathrow, but it has arrived now.
The guide - Abi for short - seems a very competent sort, and he was most apologetic for the hotel, somewhat forced upon us because of the circumstances referred to in previous blog.
Although this blog only covers Saturday afternoon/evening and Sunday we have already packed quite a lot into those 30 hours or so. Regular readers may remember that in our South Africa blogs last Autumn we bemoaned the Garden Route trip, the official Explore pace rating for which was described as 'moderate', as it was so laid back
and slow and full of unfilled gaps that it was practically comatose.
This trip, like others we have done with Explore, is described as 'full on', and so far it is certainly that.
Abi's introduction was thorough and then we were off into Old Delhi for the evening. Travel was by the metro, not new for us as we had been here for 3 days, but a new experience for the others. A slight hiccup at the final stop when in the crowded melee to get off, and with a double train door/platform door system in use, the last of the Norfolk ladies didn't make it out in time, and we waved goodbye to her as the train pulled out of the station.
Abi caught the next train to follow her and around 10 minutes later they both arrived back from the return direction. Crisis averted, and a 'dining out' story for at least one of the group ?.
We first headed into the streets of the Chandni Chowk Bazaar. This madhouse made our passage through the manic streets of Delhi over the previous 3 days seem to be as calm as a stroll through the
park. Businesses tumbling onto the pavements, traffic edging bumper to bumper past on & off road street sellers. All sorts of enterprise at the kerb. Street food, shoe cleaners, hawkers of all types - as expected. Kerb based barbers, hairdressers, sewing machinists..... - not expected.....a lady sitting on the pavement sewing clothes & doing repairs for anyone passing by.
Shops tended to be grouped. Mostly hardware to start with; at one stage we went through an area where, Abi told us, there were 300+ shops selling solely made-to-order wedding invitations & cards. And a street of wedding 'lace', as Abi called it. We would say gold-lace-ribboning.
As we ventured further into the bazaar the streets became ever more narrow, but jammed from side to side with bodies, motorbikes, carts and tuk-tuks. We emerged out into an area of relative space to visit the Jama Masjid Mosque, a large sandstone structure from which you can look across to the Red Fort. Mostly now a monument, rather than a bustling place of pilgrimage, though the actual prayer area did close at 6pm whilst we were there, for worship.
We were then back into the melee in search of food.
Specifically Abi was taking us to get some Parawthe - deep fried dough filled with a large selection of fillings, served with a platter of dips, sauces and condiments of various spice strength. Pip had a mixed veg, and a banana. Paul a pea, and an almond, and then because he enjoyed a bite of Pip's banana had a full one of those too!
It is unlikely that any of us would have tracked down this place, and would probably walked on by even if we had. But Abi assured us that it was 'safe', and best we know no one has come down with any Delhi belly afterwards. And the price when shared out on Sunday - 150 rupees each, about £1.60.
As we were exiting the Bazaar area we were at a shortish street, leading towards the Red Fort, where there are 5 worship places cheek by jowl -
A Sikh temple
A Buddhist temple
A Hindu mosque
Jainism temple, and
A Baptist chapel.
We went to the main Sikh temple, the Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib. Best we can ascertain is that this one of the most holy Sikh places of pilgrimage as it is
on the site of where one of the early gurus was assassinated.
The Sikh religion is very sharing and giving. Abi reckons you never see poor Sikhs as everyone would help. Having deposited our shoes - which would have been polished clean whilst we were visiting had we wished - we were taken through the hall of worship, and on into the kitchens and food hall. Here, everyday, they feed thousands free of charge. We could have partaken if we wanted to but most of us declined, having just eaten in the Bazaar. (Incidentally, it is our intention to eat when at the Golden Temple in Amritsar next week).
We had packed quite a lot in to the first half day or so. Time for a good sleep.
A reasonable start to Sunday, then onto coach. We've got a full size, 40 seater?, for the 12 of us, so plenty of space to spread out.
The day started with a couple of drive-bys, of India Gate, the Viceroy's Palace (where Mountbatten met with Gandhi & Nehru) and the Parliament buildings. But we didn't stop at either. The surroundings, unlike a lot of Delhi so far, was
much more looked after. And lots of English bedding plants again.
First stop was Qutub Minar, the tallest stone tower in India, built between 1192-1210. Height is 238 feet and it is an impressive slab of masonry, though the surrounding buildings have suffered from decay and earthquake damage over the subsequent centuries. We noted though, from an info board, that it was still 5 feet short of the Taj Mahal height.
The different storeys have alternating angular and circular fluting with projecting balconies and alcoves. You can't climb up though.
The surrounding ruins include the earliest known Indian mosque, dating to 1193.
On to Humayun's Tomb. Unlike the Taj Mahal - built by a husband for his dead wife - this Tomb was built by a wife for her dead husband. Emperor Humayun died in 1565 from a fall from his library steps. As Paul said, shows reading is bad for you, though to be fair it is said that he - Humayun, not Paul - was under the influence of opium.
The building is one of the earliest examples of Persian influence in Indian architecture, and is a picture in red sandstone and marble.
It was the first substantial building to be built in these materials in such quantities.
And it predates the Taj Mahal. In fact the Taj Mahal is said to be modelled on this Tomb.
We also fitted in a brief stop at the stepwell which we had seen a couple of days ago but which the group hadn't.
Lunch in a Western geared but very nice 'International Indian' restaurant before the 4-5 hour drive to Agra. First impressions are that all of Agra we see is as bad/worse as the worst bits of Delhi.
But we haven't seen the Taj Mahal yet. That comes tomorrow, and the next blog.
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