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Hello - here's the next instalment of our blog, featuring water puppets, dead former leaders and shower curtains...
We flew out from Vientiane to Hanoi a week and a half ago. Despite our best efforts to avoid Laos airlines, which apparently have a pretty worrying safety record, we managed to find ourselves on a Laos airlines flight (the extra few quid we paid for our tickets to ensure that we flew with Vietnam airlines simply bought us the comforting words "Vietnam airlines (operated by Laos airlines)" on the tickets. Nevertheless, we got to Vietnam in one piece (well, two pieces plus some baggage if you want to be pedantic).
Even by Asian standards, Hanoi is a pretty hectic city (particularly in the Old Quarter where we were staying). The Vietnamese have developed their own method of crossing the moped infested roads. Rather than do what a Westener is tempted to do (i.e. run for it when there is half a gap and hope for the best), they cross very slowly and the mopeds swerve around them like a parting sea. It is impressive to watch and a skill we are slowly picking up (although one local old lady did not seem to think we were doing too well as she took Louise by the arm and guided her across one busy road - the opposite of helping an old lady to cross the road!).
Whilst in Hanoi, we visited the Ho Chi Minh complex including his former residence, the presidential palace, his mausoleum (which was happily closed when we visited) and a slightly strange museum of propaganda. We also went to see a water puppet show (which was infinitely better than it sounds including fire breathing dragons and Vietnamese opera - set to become a favourite of Matt's...) and visited the "Hanoi Hilton" prison which was originally used by the French colonialists to lock up Vietnamese political prisoners and later by the Vietnamese to imprison American POWs during the Vietnam war (including John McCain - the jump suit he was supposedly wearing when his plane was shot down is proudly displayed). The Vietnamese are masters of propaganda and display photos of the American POWs decorating Christmas trees and playing chess whilst they were in jail. The former POWs don't paint such a rosy picture of life in there...
We then took an overnight train to Sapa in the Northern Vietnamese mountains to to do some trekking and to see some of the local tribes people in their traditional colourful dress. The "flower Hmong" people were particaulrly impressive in their bright pink, red and green outfits and we were lucky to see them away from the crowds at an early morning local market (where they buy everything from vegetables to beer and even husbands...). There was amazing scenery up there and we were able to enjoy real Vietnamese countryside on our treks and it was a welcome change from Hanoi.
After Sapa, we went on a boat tour of Halong Bay for three days, spending the first night on a lovely boat and the second night on an island in the bay. Halong Bay was incredible - 3000 or so forest-covered islands jutting out of the completely still waters. We did some kayaking with a guide who took us to some remote lagoons that couldn't be accessed by boat as you had to paddle under low natural arches at the bottom of some of the islands. A definite highlight of our trip so far.
We then hopped straight onto another overnight train (we can't get enough of them!) about 600km down the coast to Hue, which is where we currently are. We fell on our feet with the hotel room here as we're on the top floor with fantastic views over the city and the perfume river. Luxury of luxuries we've also got a bath tub, a shower curtain (yes, that's a luxury) and a computer in our room with free internet (hence this long-ish blog, sorry!). Hue was the capital of Vietnam many moons ago and was the seat of the Emperors. We did a day trip yesterday around the local sights (some impressive temples and huge tomb complexes which were a permanent testament to the boundless ego that being an Emperor generates...). One of the former Emperors insisted on every meal comprising of 50 dishes, prepared by 50 different cooks and served by 50 servants. His legacy his been the Imperial cuisine in which Hue specialises and which we sampled last night. The first course was spring rolls served on cocktails sticks stuck into half an upside down carved out pineapple with vegetables carved into a head and wings so that it resembled a peacock, underlit by a candle - odd, but great food and the chefs clearly had some skills to show off. The next six courses took things on from there, culminating in "green bean cake formed fruit"...
Today we wandered around the ancient Imperial Enclosure, a huge walled area in the centre of the city which housed the key buildings of the state and in which for a few pounds you could get your photo taken sitting on a throne with some girls posing as your concubines - who says Vietnam has sold out to tourists?!
We're off further down the coast tomorrow to Danang on what is meant to be the most spectacular train journey in Vietnam... We'll let you know...
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Colin Leckey
non-member comment
Vietnam's flag...
...is a bit rubbish isn't it?