Day 4:Reflecting at Long Tan

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Geo: 10.7592, 106.662

The loud speaker was blaring. The shrill voice barked instructions. The marching music was bouncing off the high rise buildings. It was a rude awakening to Day 4. I seriously thought I had woken up in the opening chapters of Marsden's "Tomorrow when the war began!" The streets were blocked off and from our 12th floor window we could see yellow shirts, red shirts and green shirts moving down Uncle Ho's avenue. And it was only 5.30 am!

Forget level 1 and breakfast, we made our way instead towards Uncle Ho to get a closer look. There were groups everywhere all being organised into lines and ranks by extremely bossy women! One lady near us whacked the bottom of a grown man to get him in line! There were swords and machetes, martial arts, bands and music and lots of noise and very very few westerners. Not exactly sure what was happening, but did cobble together some notion that it was a Sunday sports day (no idea what sport) and had something to do with the Olympics. We stayed for the National Anthem and then had to abandon whatever it was to get back on schedule.

Part 3 of breakfast at the Sheraton - a rinse and repeat without actually having to repeat anything if you didn't want to. Note Richard and Mac toned down on the meat today trying to impress us with their balanced diet. Think Richard was secretly trying out for a position as Master Chef in the kitchen as he concocted his Vegemite and egg roll. No offers pending!

We are guests of APT today and our choice was a visit to Long Tan. The two hour bus trip today took us out of District 1 and into Phoc Tuy Province to retrace the steps of the Australians in the Vietnam War. Mac's brother Paul served in the coastal town of Vung Tau where the munitions ships arrived and brother in law Kenny was further north at Nui Dat. Our visit took us along highway 15 through Baria and then onto "the hill" at Nui Dat and the rubber plantation at Long Tan.

Interestingly, we are all decked out with a headset. We are tuned in to what the local guide has to share, all supported by a stack of laminated photographs and some carefully highlighted maps.

We stood perched in the valley and matched the landmarks against the map and walked "close" to the hill which now boasts a quarry and in the process learnt something of the kangaroo pad, the wombat pad and the platypus pad and relived some of the daily life of the young Australians. But of course, today there is absolutely nothing on any of these sites. The debris and detritus of war have been scavenged clean, salvaged and repurposed.

Not sure what I was expecting. But it was just a hill - the literal translation is "clay hill" - and that is exactly what it was. An unassuming, non imposing "hill" in the middle of nowhere. It is hard to imagine the fear, terror and horror associated with the sounds and smells of a war time Nui Dat - home of the 1ATF - dead centre in Viet Cong territory.

Next stop was the airfield of the base - Luscombe Airfield. A long wide stretch of road that looks nothing like an airstrip but in its day was the landing place for the lumbering caribou aircraft. We walked the airstrip (resisted buying a beer and a cooler) and visited the kindergarten, affectionately referred to as the Australian University, which is sponsored by Australian war vets.

And then, the short trip to Long Tan.

According to the Australian's perspective.....It was late afternoon August 18, 1966 in South Vietnam, in the pouring rain, amid the mud and shattered trees of a rubber plantation called Long Tan, Major Harry Smith and his dispersed company of 108 young and mostly inexperienced Australian and New Zealand soldiers were fighting for their lives, holding off an overwhelming enemy force of 2,500 battle hardened Viet Cong and North Vietnamese soldiers.

With their ammunition running out, their casualties mounting and the enemy massing for a final assault each man began to search for his own answer and the strength to triumph over an uncertain future with honour, decency and courage.

The ensuing Battle of Long Tan became one of the most savage and decisive engagements in ANZAC history, but sadly not before 18 Australians and more than 500 Vietnamese lost their lives.

Today at the cross in the middle of the rubber plantation we commemorated the soldiers from both countries with a small band of Australians and a handful of Vietnamese who were our tour guides. Certainly Mac's family was touched by Vietnam and the guides today all had stories from families - stories that had their beginnings in the ideologies of both the north and the south.

Our ceremony was emotional, set with a backdrop of the distant hill and surrounded by the rubber plantation regrowth. Duong, our guide carried a mop to clean the surface of the memorial in preparation for the laying of the wreath, the reading of "For the Fallen", the Last Post, one minute's silence, the Reveille and individual rose tributes. The purple floral wreath was placed by a returned soldier who was part of the group and in the somber and reverent setting the tears did flow.

The repeated mantra of the guides is that the "War is in the wind, it is yesterday." Tomorrow is the future and it holds the mystery of life for all of us. Despite the message at the War Remnants Museum yesterday, it would seem that the voice of Vietnam moving forward is one of "regrowth" both physically and spiritually.

At the end of the ceremony I asked Duong if I could sweep up - I wanted to show my respect to our soldiers and also to the local Vietnamese people who look after the cross. This simple gesture touched the hearts of the guides and I think I have a new friend.

Lunch was a sit down affair with fellow APT group members - guess this is the pattern for the next 12 days. Pumpkin soup to start, spring rolls and salad as the starter, braised beef and vegetables for the main and fruit to finish washed down with a cold beverage.

And then into the bus for the trip home. Not sure of the catalyst - the emotion, the food or the heat and rhythm of the bus - but think that most of the crew took the opportunity for 40 winks. Certainly didn't need to be asked twice to get inside to the air conditioning. Again, a very warm heat intensified by a dripping humidity. You live in a constant state of embarrassment - checking if your wet pants are giving away all your secrets.

Have to say there are soooooo many instructions. We had an hour briefing last night and got another top up of details while captive in the bus! Think the APT board in the Sheraton foyer is now running to 8 pages! Does seem as if "detail" is important. In all the "noise" think we just need to have bags outside our door, marked with a yellow ribbon, before breakfast tomorrow.

And the organisation does seem to work because the ATP group was corralled into the foyer of the Sheraton and at exactly 6.30 with the local guides nipping at our heels we were marching along the sidewalk to the Luke Nguyen inspired Xu restaurant for a degustation extravaganza. Was so pleased that we jagged a table for 6 tucked away around the corner and were joined by two of the bikie crew Donna and Howard. Not sure where the hours or the food went as we chatted and laughed our way through three courses. Small portions, delicately flavoured and beautifully presented. The jury is out on the favourites but there does seem to be a consensus around the minced pork pumpkin flower, the chilli prawn, the fillet Mignon and the lemon grass sea bass.

The post dessert treat was to try a Vietnamese coffee house and sample some brews. Was definitely thinking of @Von and @Julie as the coffee dripped slowly through the brass filter. Very smooth and rich and sweet.

Last job was to revisit Uncle Ho's avenue and enjoy the lights and hustle and bustle of our last night in District 1. Added a visit to the 6 star Reverie and a stroll by the Times Square and the Grand Hotels.

One last mad dash across the street and we are now trying to make sense of the instructions for tomorrow morning while listening to the music and traffic from the street below.

Steps: 9 538
Temperature: 36 degrees

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Photos

From the Australian War Memorial
T

Comments

[Denise]

So much to learn. Nice touch sweeping up. Very moving. After our 18000 steps around Pritvice Lakes Croatia today it started snowing.

[Aunty Gail]

Another amazing day - so interesting & emotional. I believe the 6 hours of eating!!!!!!!......all looks absolutely delicious....looking forward to tomorrow's adventures.....xxxx