Mopeding around Mui Ne, part 1

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Walking through tall palm trees, thick green grasses and small rolling hills, yellow wildflowers protruding from flower beds we stepped towards our breakfast table. We ordered tomato and cheese omelets and Vietnamese coffees. Not another guest in sight I stated, "For being booked it seems odd no one else is here?" starring into the distance. "Yep. Even the construction sounds aren't around," she replied. "I'll ask after breakfast about the moped," I stated still trying to wake up. "Okay, no hurry. We are on vacation," she smiled.

Sitting up, our coffees arrived at the table. Picking up the small spoons we both began stirring the condensed milk into the coffee watching the deep brown color change into a milky light brown the more the spoon moved inside the liquid. Tempting the taste buds I lifted the small spoon sipping from it the rich flavors of the beans. "Too bad this doesn't come in a larger size," I smiled peering over the rim of the coffee cup. "I know what you mean. I could drink six of these," she gleamed sipping from her white cup as the waitress arrived with our twin plates of omelet and baguettes.

Shortly after her second cup of coffee arrived at the table, I headed for the front counter to arrange renting a moped. Ordering an automatic, the front desk agent asked another woman to explain how to operate the Yamaha sitting in the parking lot. Once we had gone through the procedures on starting, lights, turn signals, unlocking the trunk, location of gas cap and helmets, she handed me the keys simply stating, "enjoy your day." "Certainly, will," I said kicking the kickstand back and punching the ignition button. The timid 125cc engine purred as I pulled on the gas lifting my feet and speeding off down the long stretch of driveway. Slowing to a halt before the street. I spun the moped around using both front and rear brakes to adjust my speed coming back down the drive. Satisfied with the handling, agility and braking power, I shut her down, put out the kickstand and retrieved Shauna from the breakfast table.

Half an hour later we turned right out of the resort heading towards the fishing village. The sole purpose of going to the fishing village was to visit the structure with the steep roofs I could see from our beach walk the previous afternoon. Unaware of what the structure was, or even where it was, I hoped we would find it. Driving down the two lane street was easy enough to handle, the passing vehicles didn't really bother me until a xe om local bus, laid into its horn to alert me of its presence. Jerking the handlebars slightly to the right the moped adjusted as our ears bled from the obscene horn blast! As it sped off in front of us, the driver continued wailing on the horn alerting motorists.

Gripping the gas I tugged on the grip gaining speed as we weaved in and out of a couple other riders keeping a shallow pace on the bus. Eventually the bus yielded to the left as a round about approached in the center of town. Trying to stay out of the way, I veered us right around the turning circle onto another stretch of road following two other motor scooters. Slowing down we rode past a ramshackle of random buildings of various pastel hues. "Whenever you see something you want to stop at, just let me know and I'll pull over," I said turning my head to the side for Shauna to hear. "Will do. But so far it all just looks the same."

Driving around the corner we found a short strip of road, weaved past a tiny delivery van into an alley. Slowing down to a snails pace the road ended at the edge of a building. To our right a random dirt road lead off down a hill. Turning around I maneuvered us into a large square space, looking right all roads ended on the other side of the buildings at an assortment of cliffs leading down to the water. Spinning around we headed back the direction from which we had come. Passing the little delivery truck once again, we moved into traffic heading back the direction we came when directly in front of us was a temple. "Did you see that?" I said stopping the moped a few driveways beyond the temple. "Yep. Do you want to take a look?" "Why not? We are tourists after all," I said smiling and turning the Yamaha around. Pulling onto the driveway, we went up a steep grade past the huge decorative white gate. "Okay, hop off so I can park this beast," I stated. Leaving the bike, I leaned into it thinking about the direction to park a motorcycle while on a hill so it wont tip over. A quick debate and I set the kickstand down. Unlocking the seat, we pulled out our cameras from the mini-trunk space and tossed our helmets in.

Linh Long Tu the twenty-six inch red letters stated on the lowest roofing tiles surrounded by the decorative facade. Moving about the temple we were invited to take a seat at a set of long tables to enjoy a tea. Declining the hospitality, since I had water, I gestured if it was okay to wander around and take photographs. Without hesitation a warm smile greeted me as the man gestured with his hands that we could do as we pleased. As always when at temples I try to remain as quiet as possible trying not to interfere with whatever daily procedures are around the place.

Wandering past three long tables, numerous empty plastic chairs all pushed in awaiting bodies to fill them during meal time. Stepping past them I went through a covered walkway into the backyard. Immediately a sun bleached white and pale blue fifteen foot monument stood its deep red lettering covering three sides of the base. Walking past this there were others to my right up a short hill and to my left. Off in the distance past a secondary building workers constructed scaffolding around a stone statue.

Walking towards the workers and secondary building its immense size standing out amongst monuments and statues. Kicking off sandals my feet stuck to sand covered white and green patterned tiles. Three steps inside the structure, I pushed my sunglasses off as my eyes adjusted to sunlight filtering through vents high up in the tin roof. The room was sauna like and just as empty. A three foot white statue with crown stood in the middle of the room on a pedestal. At its feet the top of a large brown altar held smouldering incense sticks, stacks of dried fruit, flowers, vases holding coins and faux-candles inserted with light bulbs. Several multicolored banners fell from the roof in various lengths filling out the remaining space. Exiting the building, I put on my sandals watching two workers pounding wood stakes into the dirt using worn mallets as another used an old wooden saw on the ground cutting lengths of cord.

Slipping behind the workers I stepped onto the pathway that reached the octagonal burial monument up three sets of stairs at the base it had lotus lantern paintings in bright red with two tributes written in Vietnamese on golden rock slates, engraved and painted red lettering. On each side it had three images of past monks, a scripture detailing their lives, dates and an image of Buddha. As I wandered around to the right looking the burial monument over, I spotted an interesting sight over the fence into the neighboring yard as well as the gorgeous view overlooking both the fishing village and the cove.

All over the neighboring yard bright shiny objects lay in the sun drying. Unaware of the objects I jumped over the railing landing on the grass ground and walked to the barb wired fence. Reaching the fence I could just make out the short silvery skins of fish. Millions of tiny silver fish lay on top of four-foot tall tables. Hundreds of tables sat in the sun. Workers milled around spreading the fish with rakes. Watching their movements around the tables, they prodded, pushed and pulled the fish then filled large baskets. I recalled reading sometime ago in LP that many of the fishing villages along the coasts of Vietnam produce fish oils and sauces. Remarkable, I thought snapping off a few images in the smoldering heat of the fish oil factory as well as the broad view across village.

Returning to the beginning I looked around for Shauna. Slowly I spotted movement at a large burial monument directly behind the main temple. Surely that would be her. Wandering over I headed up to see what she was photographing. Upon reaching her I quickly noticed the amount of glass shards, plates and pottery used in mosaic patterns around this brightly colored and elaborate monument. Stopping I took in the silence before preceding to document its beauty. Fifteen minutes later the two of us walked to the front of the temple spotting in the distance the building we were originally seeking. "I just want to check out the inside of the main temple then we can go," I stated. "Sounds good to me. I'm getting thirsty," she replied. Then from our left we both spotted a person. An elderly lady came out of a dark hidden hallway. Her hand outstretched, a broad smile creeping across her weather beaten skin. Stopping, I shook my hand then my head. I pointed to the temple as a way of showing we would leave money there. She nodded and walked away.

Kicking off our sandals outside the main door. We stepped into the threshold. Immediately we were met with the sounds of chanting monks in a distant room. We moved through the room taking it in. It's displays were brightly painted and incorporated light bulbs shaped like candle wicks glowing along with the neon beads wrapped around figures. The images I took didn't retell the story of this interesting temple room. So, I shot a short video to capture the essence of being here. Stumbling through the doors one hand snagged the sandals tripping down the steps while putting them on Shauna laughed hysterically. Nearly missing the concrete with my nose I pointed to the large structure across the street. "That's what I was looking for." She wasn't listening her laughter roared around us. "Sorry, but that was perfect. Could you do that again so I can get it on video?"

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Photos

Bungalows
Thai Hoa Mui Ne Resort

Exterior
Secondary building and Statue

Inside main building
Statue offering

Main temple
Rear exterior and annex

Front court
Roof of Christian school in background