Cuoc Phuong & Kenh Gar Floating Village

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4/1 - Endangered Primate Rescue Centre, Cuc Phuong National Park, Kenh Ga Floating Village

We awoke to another glorious day - and I was full of excitement because we were going to the Endangered Primate Rescue Centre near the Cuc Phuong National Park. About a week before we left Australia I opened the Lonely Planet at a random page and, on seeing the word "primate", I quickly rearranged our schedule and a few things to include a stop.

Our driver from the Thuy Anh hotel cost $50 US for the day - though a trip can be organised as a group for a lower price. The centre is about 50kms and 1.5hrs from Ninh Binh.

Upon arrival, a rescue centre staff member took us and 2 other travellers through the centre (entry is free). It is fairly small but extremely well - run, and you may only look through the centre with a staff member. They have gibbons (=long arms, more highly evolved) and langurs (=long tail, less highly evolved) in different species. They even had a new born baby langur and it was adorable! The gibbons were truly amazing - intelligent and highly athletic.

Afterwards we drove the 15kms or so further into the heart of the Cuc Phuong National Park, one of Vietnam's most important protected areas, and did an 8km hike. This included a stop at a 1000 year old tree. The forest was truly beautiful and although we didn't manage to spot any wildlife (except a feral cat) we had a lovely, albeit it fairly demanding, walk. Upon exiting the park we also stopped at a cave which was used by human habitants 7500 years ago. Many human-related artefacts have been found from this period in Cuc Phuong N/P.

Next we had to persude our driver to please take us to Kenh Ga floating village (he disagreed and then we rang the hotel and then he agreed). Kenh Ga was a real highlight for both Andrew and I. The scenery was spectacular and I was left to wonder if maybe a little part of heaven fell down by mistake and landed in Vietnam. The village people were very friendly and often waved to us even while they were hard at work. Hundreds of ducks waddled in single file along the banks of the river. Small children played in the water while dogs barked. The reflection of the setting sun on the water against the background of silhouetted karst mountains was truly remarkable.

The Kenh Ga and in fact the Ninh Binh province in general are much quieter tourism-wise than other parts of Vietnam we have visited. And, while I was left feeling disheartened at the level of air and water pollution in the greater HCMC / Mekong region, here things are still pretty much pristine - though I did see a small quarry being dug into one of the karst towers at Kenh Ga. Of course, it is not the fault of the people of the Mekong and HCMC - it's just that there are so many people in a small area there. Nonetheless, when travelling the Mekong I felt like I was 30 years too late and both Andrew and I felt deflated and saddened - but in Ninh Binh we arrived right on time to see it's true beauty. I hope that it stays that way forever.

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Photos

Kenh Ga
Here the young boys or girls open the bridge outwards when a boat approaches.