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Published: August 6th 2006
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Posing with Uncle Ho
Notice that they are "holding hands" Hanoi, Vietnam's capital, had a different feel than Saigon, which was more hectic and more developed. The city center is right at Lake Hoan Kiem, which is only about a square mile. Just to the north of the lake is Old Town, a series of streets named for the different shops that line each one, like "Silk Street" on "Hash Steet" all in Vietnamese of course. I spent my first afternoon on a self guided walking tour of this area, making my way through both heavy and light rain.
I began at a restaurant called Cha Ca La Vong, which takes the kamakazi approach and serves only one dish--Cha Ca, or grilled white fish. You climb up a skinny flight of stairs to the second floor, where you are presented with a small laminated card that says "Menu: Grilled Fish only, 70,000 VND". Pretty simple. Out comes a hot pot with the fish and some sides of veggies, which you are to add yourself. The fish was delicious. I now understand how this place thrives serving only one dish.
I continued my walk around the various streets, lined with shops. Every few blocks, you could see older traditional facades,
often highlighted by my guide. I capped my afternoon off with a stop at the water puppet show. This ancient Vietnamese art has been practiced for hundreds of years. There was a stage and a band/orchestra off to the side. In the end, 8 puppeteers revealed themselves. I thought the show was interesting, especially the parts where fireworks and sparklers were involved, but overall, I wouldn't have been too upset if it had ended 30 minutes earlier.
That night I had a great meal at Bobby Chinn's restaurant. I loved the swanky atmosphere, and the playful menu that stated rules like "this is a Kenny G and Gipsy Kings free zone" and a dessert menu whose final item was "I'm on a diet: $0.00." The food was Vietnamese with a global twist, and the service was on par with what I would expect in San Francisco. I did find the W Hotel style ear piecesthat the servers used to be a bit over the top.
After dinner, I made my way over to the New Century nightclub. Before going in, I was required to check my camera into a locker. One theory is that the club doesn't want
One dish restaurant
Only beef noodles for $1...and delicious! to get in trouble with the government for pictures of go-go dancers in tight shirts and pants getting around. By 10.30pm, the place was jam packed with Vietnamese. I saw only a handful of westerners among hundreds of locals. The Vietnamese seem to really be into hard and fast techno music. Around midnight, more westerners started showing up. I decided to head home just past 2am.
As I walked out of the club, I was searching for two different taxi companies which my guide said use honest meters. Walking down the end of the block, against my better judgement, I decided to get onto a motorbike, since I knew I wasn't too far from my hotel and the streets were mostly empty. When the driver's "sister" jumped on the bike behind me, I knew something was up. She was asking all the typical questions like where I was from and of course asked if I liked Vietnamese girls and if I was interested in the "boom boom." I started to get really concerned when we made a turn away from where I knew the hotel was. We were also going back and forth on different streets, almost as if
he was trying to disorient me, which he did. I started to get concerned that they were going to take me somewhere to rob me, and suddenly I saw the street where my hotel was. He overshot my hotel and as we were turning around, and found the girl with her hand in my pocket and my camera about a quarter of the way out. Good thing for my snug Seven jeans; there was no way it was coming out while I was sitting down. I jumped of the bike and ran for the hotel, where again I was propositioned by a "street worker." Luckily I made it back with all my stuff and alive, but a little rattled.
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My second day in Hanoi was my big visit with Ho Chi Minh, or as he is affectionately known in Vietnam, Uncle Ho. Despite his wishes to be creamated, the Vietnamese decided that like a certain Russian leader, that Uncle Ho's body should be preserved. So today, years after his death, you can have the honor of visiting Uncle Ho in Hanoi. Security is tight for one of Vietnam's national treasures. The visit begins with a bag check at a window specially marked for foreigners. (Not exactly sure what is different about our check-in area?). You are then required to watch a film in Vietnamese about Uncle Ho's life and death, which includes several minutes of all kinds of Vietnamese in mourning. After the film, you are to walk--no more than two people next to each other towards the next check-in place for your electronics such as cameras and cell phones. Finally you are filed into Ho's resting place where he is encased in glass and closely protected by four armed guards at each corner of his coffin. All you get is about 30 seconds to make the walk around the room and you are done with your visit.
Another site I visited, and definitely worth hitting is the Army Museum. There are some small exhibits off to the side, but the main attractions are all the captured enemy weapons and vehicles which are on display in the courtyard (see photo). While I was visiting the Temple of Literature, it started pouring rain for the second time that day, and that put an end to my Hanoi sightseeing.
I capped the evening off with a dinner at one of Hanoi's top restaurants: Emperor. The restaurant is in an old Chinese style house, with folk musicians playing in the courtyard. There was an la carte menu and there were multiple tasting menus. I chose theeight course "Emperor" menu for a grand total of $22. It was a traditional northern Vietnamese menu, with a mix of seafood, meats and veggies. Great meal. I am pleased to report back that upon completion of that meal, that I had reached my goal of eating at all eight of Frommer's top restaurants in the country. Next stop: Halong Bay.
Travel tidbits:
- Win Hotel was located just northwest of the lake in the old city. I had to walk up to the fourth floor, but the room was nice, but had a hand held shower. You could probably find a comparable room for less than $20, which I paid. However, the staff was friendly and the location was great.
- Bobby Chinn's was one of the best places that I ate in Vietnam. The chef is originally from the US, and the restaurant is super swanky and would fit into any big Western city. Highly recommended. One of the best wine lists in Vietnam, with a Wine Spectator award.
- Emperor is located in a beautiful Chinese style house. Great atmosphere. They offer 8 course fixed Vietnamese menus for $22. Everything was good. Highly recommended.
- Vine is located a little bit north of the center near the entrance to the Sheraton hotel near the West Lake. It is the only other restaurant in Vietnam with a Wine Spectator award. The menu is very continental, but if you are craving a certain dish like pastas, or pizzas, or a good steak, this is the place to go. Chef Donald has been in the industry for over 20 years and has worked in kitchens around the world.
- Cha Ca La Vong serves one dish only: grilled fish. This is a must stop as you walk around the old city.
- Bun Bo Nam Bo is another one dish only "restaurant" located near the entrance to the market. Their specialty is a beef noodle dish that is a steal for $1. The dining area is very basic, but definitely worth a stop.
- New Century is a big nightclub. I went on a Friday night and the place was packed with Vietnamese by 10.30pm. No cover charge, and loud and fast techno music. Westerners started trickling in closer to midnight.
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stef smith
non-member comment
Who needs school?
Wow, Andy, you should make a book out of this journal. Your travels look so exciting. Wish I could be there to join you. Miami seems like a walk through Montana compared to Saigon. Miss you tons. :)