Hanoi

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May 23 - 25, May 28 - 30, and June 5-7, 2006

After a slow and methodical touring of Vietnam from its southern tip of Ha Tien to the central ancient town of Hue we leapt north to Hanoi on Vietnam Airlines, skipping the grueling 12-16 hours of bus travel between Hue and Hanoi. The bus from Hue departs daily at 6pm and the thought of the crazed drivers, roadside livestock, and pitch black night of hilly, rural Vietnam was not appealing in the least. With airline tickets around $50 USD per person we decided to make the leap and spare ourselves a fitful night of bus travel.

Vietnam Airlines is as modern and efficient as any airline we have traveled and their snacks, comfort and service are superior to most. We made the trip with our Kiwi friends whom we had been playing tag with since Da Lat (they had planned on taking the bus ride but were swayed by the reasonable price of the airline tickets). We arrived in Hanoi early in the afternoon and split a taxi ride into the city. Hanoi’s airport sits some 35 kilometers from the city and the distance is largely filled by agricultural land.

The cab, organized by a guesthouse in the hope that it would lead to a booking, dropped the four of us on the guesthouse’s curb in the city’s old quarter. The old quarter overwhelmed us from the moment we exited the cab. The narrow streets, insane traffic, and hustling citizens couldn’t care less for wide-eyed arrivals unprepared for the melee. We had never planned on staying at the guesthouse that Phil and Colleen had reserved but a quick study of the guesthouse revealed an odor that sent them hiking with us toward other accommodation, quite literally dodging traffic that knows no bounds (either by law or lane). Each guest house courts travelers rather aggressively, pitching their fine establishment or simply pleading for you to take a look. The competition is so fierce that $12 USD buys a night in the prime location with attractive amenities. As we would find out, however, the amenities, such as “free wi-fi” are often misleading (in most cases “wi-fi” meant “internet in the lobby”).

The guest house we selected, one of four we would stay in as we passed in and out of Hanoi, was one of numerous identical possibilities that has become nameless in recent weeks. The staff was remarkable in their helpfulness and friendliness. This five-star treatment concluded the moment they realized we would not be booking one of the region’s many tourist trips, clearly a major second (actually the hotel is probably second) industry for the hoteliers. Virtually every guest house in the city center includes a travel desk competing with the stand-alone travel agents that fill many of the store fronts unoccupied by the hotels. And of these hotels and agents, many sell and re-sell the same product with promises that theirs is the best, the most unique, or the most deluxe. Our shopping for Halong Bay packages, for example, revealed a stunning fluctuation in price (on top of the Vietnamese “all prices subject to negotiation” creed).

We settled in and began to explore Hanoi. The nation’s capital, Hanoi, is a sprawling and complex metropolis. The city center is an anthill of activity, densely packed and roaring with the sounds of engines, vendors and horns - it is unrelenting. This tide of urban business covers every available speck of space between the buildings. Sidewalks are so jammed with vendors and parked scooters as to render them virtually unpassable, forcing pedestrians to walk in the streets between still more parked scooters or cars and the blur of traffic. What space you can carve out for passage along the sidewalks is often empty for a reason - uneven concrete, piles of garbage awaiting the nightly city-wide collection, puddles of water or other liquid, or open chasms of incomplete construction work.

Despite this chaos the city center is organized into distinct shopping districts, short streets containing almost exclusively one brand of shop. Dozens of candy vendors line one avenue, while lock and key vendors line another. If you take a wrong turn and you are looking for anything other than the latest pirated Batman toys you can only keep walking and hope that the neighborhood will morph into something more in line with what you are seeking.

The city center also provides ample opportunity to buy other pirated goods, of course, ranging from deluxe DVD boxed sets of the latest American television shows to photocopied Lonely Planets guides to western sports jerseys, software, and last week’s new musical releases (some outlets even advertise MP3 files for sale, happy to upload music from their computer directly to your digital player at a fraction of the cost of legitimate purchases). The backroom of one movie vendor, open to you if you inquired about a specific movie title, would make Blockbuster blush. Classic titles, entire series of English, American and Chinese television shows, current theatrical releases, and music performances all carefully organized and presented by a young man who insists he knows every title they stock and who is happy to show you the quality of the product on the DVD player he maintains. He sold us a crisp copy of The DaVinci Code barely a week into its worldwide theatrical release though we were foiled when we discovered the many conversations in Latin lost their value to the plot when translated into Russian subtitles.

We did not love Hanoi but we were never fully confident that it was Hanoi’s fault. We got to Hanoi after having a great month in Vietnam seeing the sights down south. By the time we got to Hanoi though we were starting to get frustrated with some of our experiences in Vietnam and some of the things we had found charming at first had lost their shine. So when we say that we did not like Hanoi as much as Saigon or that the people were not as friendly (but instead much pushier) as in the south, part of that could be our prior experiences in Vietnam slowly catching up to us. In any event, thanks largely to the friendlier southern people, we enjoyed our time in southern Vietnam much more than our time in northern Vietnam.

We would venture in and out of Hanoi several times, staying there May 23 - 25, May 28 - 30, and again June 5-7 as we prepared to depart Vietnam. The constant barrage of sights and sounds and our focus on planning our side trips and our departure from Vietnam essentially deprived us of our daily note-taking, leaving us with distinct memories and experiences that we cannot organize in to our preferred journal form. What follows are some of the highlights of our time in Hanoi and some of our impressions of this dynamic city. We regret that we have lost some of the detail but we hope that the following impressions will convey our time in this city.

Uncle Ho’s Mausoleum

The ever-present symbolic center of Vietnamese life is Ho Chi Minh. His image graces every paper note, every public building, and is represented in art and propaganda imagery in most businesses, homes, and public spaces. During our visit the stately Hoan Kiem Lake and park just south of the city center was surrounded by large mounted, multi-color posters commemorating Uncle Ho and the unification of Vietnam. His homes and offices, both within Hanoi and in the smaller towns of his boyhood, are preserved. And speaking of preserved….

Ho Chi Minh himself, father of the independent Vietnam that shook away both colonizers and foreign democrats, lies in visible permanent state in a massive concrete tomb not far from the booming capitalism of the city center. Uncle Ho is preserved much as his co-revolutionary V.I. Lenin was in Soviet Russia and for similar purposes. The tomb is at the center of Ba Dinh Square, the spot Ho Chi Minh read the Vietnamese Declaration of Independence in 1945. As you approach the mausoleum you are keenly aware that the man remains entombed both to receive perpetual gratitude and honor as well as to keep watch over his people from his giant concrete cube. This dramatic and symbolic place is not immune to the disorganization and lawlessness that plagues many of Vietnam’s other locations, however.

Upon our arrival at the entrance to the mausoleum grounds (which also include the Presidential Palace, a museum honoring Ho Chi Minh, Ba Dinh Square, and the mausoleum itself), we were funneled past a building where we were told to check our bags, hand over our camera, and pay a nominal fee. We were then directed to a long line that would wind to the mausoleum and a viewing of the body of the founder of modern Vietnam. The length of the line was incredible and a little unnerving as we were told the mausoleum closed at 10:30 and we had to return to collect our bag from the bag check before 10am (roughly ninety minutes from the time we arrived at the line). We shuffled forward, slowly but patiently, before noticing that another line, this one filled predominantly by tourists, was slicing in ahead of our line and moving quickly. A check with the guards on duty revealed that the other line was in fact the line for tourists and that while we did need to check cameras and bags the mausoleum was free and we were not to give anyone money. We proceeded in line, frustrated and mindful of the clock.

The mausoleum sits alone some distance from the other monuments in the park, emphasizing its grey monolithic quality. Upon reaching the doorway we were snaked up some stairs and into the inner tomb under the watchful eyes of the guards who enforce the rigid rules of the visit - single file, steady pace, no cameras, and no talking. In the center of the cavernous, chilly, dimly lit room lies Ho Chi Minh. His body is sealed in a glass box, clear on three sides with a black bed below him, black awning above him, and a black wall behind his head. He is lit from above and looks eerily healthy for a man who has been dead since 1969.

Upon exiting the tomb we are told to line up to receive our camera, which had been transported to the exit and was waiting for us. A new line wound from the camera check toward the palace and museum, though we were unable to proceed and still claim our backpack before the 10am deadline. Hopeful we would be able to resume the tour we sped back to the bag check. While the bag was waiting we were unable to establish why we had to return by 10am or why we had been asked to pay a fee (“For us,” the woman told us before heading back to screw more suckers out of a few bucks at what appeared otherwise to be a strictly non-profit site).

We sulked unsatisfied through the park studying the line pouring into visit Uncle Ho and snapping photos, marveling at the many beauties of Vietnam that seem bound to and too often obscured by inconveniences and little corruptions.

If you visit the mausoleum, and we strongly encourage you to do so if you are in the neighborhood, don’t take anything but your camera.

We walked around the park for some time after our visit to the tomb before stumbling upon the swan paddle boats at nearby West Lake. While not as historically heavy as our morning visiting Uncle Ho, the hour we spent paddling around the lake and watching the dozen rafts of uniformed school kids splashing each other was culturally enriching.

The Food

The food in Hanoi was quite good and we had several meals at Little Hanoi Restaurant, Cyclo Bar and Restaurant and The Whole Earth, each of which we would highly recommend. The highlights were a caramel beef spring roll dish at Little Hanoi Restaurant, a fried rice dish at the Cyclo Bar and Restaurant with seafood, pineapple and cashews and a vegetarian plate at The Whole Earth with tofu, vegetables and an omelette (who knew eggs were so delicious with soy sauce and/or chili sauce?). The other treat we stumbled upon near the end of our time in Hanoi were called Deli Manjoo and they were similar to the pancake-like cookie filled with bean paste or light cream that Amy really liked in Japan.

Western Food

Hanoi features all manner and variety of restaurants when it comes to food, style and selection. We have found, however, that no matter how badly one craves western food you simply cannot satisfy your urge. For example, the preparation of a Hooter’s caliber buffalo wing depends on many variables, not the least of which is the type of available meat and the experienced cook in the proper kitchen. Cravings, however, are cravings, and despite the high quality of food we have had in Asia Roger almost combusted when we discovered the presence of an Australian operated restaurant promising a menu of authentic western favorites (including buffalo wings).

The midday meal of wings, potato wedges with chili sauce and sour cream, and barbecue ribs would be one of the most expensive we would have in Southeast Asia. It would also teach us a valuable lesson: food that is okay but not good does not satisfy cravings, amounting to a costly indulgence, too many calories, and a lost opportunity to enjoy fine local food (even if you are just a little tired of it).

The Movie Theaters

Another indulgence we had been craving since our time in Bangkok was seeing a current release in an actual movie theatre (rather than a pirated movie on our laptop). Having read that Hanoi had at least a couple of movie theatres that showed English speaking movies we were anxious to try to catch a “newish” release. After walking all around Hanoi in order to go to both movie theatres, to say we were disappointed that the best movie offered was Big Momma’s House 2 is an understatement. Yes, we were desperate for a movie going experience but not that desperate.

The “Hanoi Hilton” Hoa Lo Prison

The Hoa Lo Prison, known to most Americans as the Hanoi Hilton, lies a healthy 40 minute walk from the old quarter (a walk we do not recommend in the heat and humidity of May). The prison exists today as a museum detailing the horrors inflicted upon the Vietnamese by the French colonists who built the prison in 1896. From an American perspective we had not heard much about the prison aside from its role in our own conflict with Vietnam and we were surprised to see so little mention of the war. The only mention of the role that the Hoa Lo Prison played in the American War is the room full of propaganda detailing how well the American prisoners were treated and how happy they were there. This obviously doesn’t jive with what Americans have heard about the Hanoi Hilton from John McCain and others who were imprisoned there. In addition to the focus being primarily on the conditions and treatment of the Vietnamese by the French, a courtyard, complete with one of the prison’s two original guillotines, exists as a nicely done memorial to those Vietnamese who suffered there. It does not take much to convince us that the French are less than desirable visitors but the antique guillotines, rusted chains and shackles, claustrophobic cells, and accounts of torture make the point very persuasively. The prison is remarkably well-preserved and educational despite the presence of some Vietnamese propaganda.

Though the prison walls block out most of the traffic and noise from the outside world the shadow of modern Hanoi is long. What remains of the prison today rests at the foot of an enormous, ritzy hotel or apartment building. From the guillotine in the courtyard you can look up at what must be a third or fourth floor patio playground decked out in fake Disney decorations.

Negotiating For Amy’s Books

Once we decided that we would be heading to Australia we focused on getting our hands on a guidebook. Our best experiences on the trip so far have been with Rough Guide but Lonely Planet guides are usually the only type you can find in used bookstores or in the counterfeit market. We spent some time looking in new bookstores as well but could never find a Rough Guide for Australia. Once realizing that we would be forced to buy Lonely Planet, we targeted the counterfeit market and spent some time looking at different vendors as well as different travel agents (many of whom sell used books including travel books). Amy picked out a book for her to read during our trip to Halong Bay as well as a copy of a counterfeit Lonely Planet at a travel agent and tried to negotiate with the woman at the travel agent for a slight discount in the price. As we’ve mentioned before, prices are always marked up because they expect you to bargain them down and we know that we have not been bargaining prices to anywhere as low as they will go. Amy tried to bargain the price down but the woman was unwilling to give anything but the most minor of price reductions which frustrated Amy to the point of walking out the door. Over dinner Amy was fuming about the woman’s inflexibility but also realized that we really needed the books before going to Halong Bay so Roger agreed to go back and buy the two books they were interested in.

On the way back to the travel agent Roger was approached by a man selling various books in the street (a common thing, as odd as it may sound). Roger asked about a Lonely Planet guide for Australia and was told that if he could wait just a few minutes the most recent version would be delivered. After almost ten minutes of negotiating in an effort to get the price down to the level at the travel agency, Roger agreed to pay slightly more just to be able to walk back into the travel agent with the book in his hands. Sure enough the woman recognized him immediately and jumped up victoriously with the two books they had previously looked at, though she was disappointed to sell only the cheaper novel. It was just like that scene in Pretty Woman in the snooty clothing store only in Vietnam and with counterfeit books. And Roger’s not a hooker. Big mistake, lady! Big mistake! Huge!

Bia Hoi

One of the best features of Hanoi is the bia hoi. Found on numerous old quarter street corners (for example, the bia hoi where everyone knew our name was one of at least 6 bia hois around this particular street intersection) after dark, bia hois are casual bars consisting of kegs of freshly brewed beer served in glasses (no plastic cups) to customers who perch on very low-to-the-ground stools located on the sidewalks. The beer is surprisingly good, pretty strong, and shockingly cheap (a glass costs around 2,000 dong or 15 cents). You never thought you could find something to rival the nickel draw nights of college, did you? An evening at a bia hoi is a great way to have a tasty drink and people watch at the same time. One of our final evenings in Hanoi we split 12 beers (between 4 of us!) and two servings of boiled peanuts for less than $2, watching the traffic go by and enjoying the bustle of early evening.

Street Vendors / Photo Models

Women walk around the streets of Hanoi with bamboo rods balancing baskets of merchandise on their shoulders. The baskets hold a variety of things but most often some kind of fruit or baked good. After being turned down for a sale the vendors always tried to put the carrier onto Amy’s shoulders for a picture (for a fee of course). If we had just arrived in Vietnam we probably would have found it charming and done it once but after over a month in Vietnam (some of it in the countryside) it was really just annoying how they had devised additional ways to separate you from your money.

Water Puppets -- Thang Long Water Puppet Theater

One of our last tourist stops in Hanoi was the Thang Long Water Puppet Theater. Water puppetry is a traditional Vietnamese art form that combines live music and puppetry to tell ancient stories or fables. The “stage” is a two foot deep pool of water surrounded by decorative wooden fencing. From the back of the stage, behind a decorative wall, puppeteers manipulate the wooden puppets by bamboo poles that are concealed by the water. The movements of the puppets, decorated in colorful fabric, and the occasional addition of firecrackers or chimes makes for a dynamic display.

The live music, provided by a live string band and two primary vocalists, provides a vivid soundtrack to the performance. While not melodic music to a western ear the music enhanced the performance and made this traditional art form a real treat for us.

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Photos

Hoa Lo Prison Exhibit
Creepy, right?

Amy at Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum
Posing like a Japanese tourist

Our travel agent
This is how we found him in his office and we could not wake him up to make a booking

Water Puppet Theatre
Blurry but you get the idea

Comments

[gwenbenevento]

wow!
Amy and Mookie: Unfortunately I hadn't checked in until just tonight, and I have already stayed up too late trying to catch up with you... but now you are bookmarked and I'll try to stay current! I love reading your journals - so vivid. You guys are a hoot. Wishing you safe travels!