Pe-Kat and beyond...

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Not quite a Sunday morning lie-in senario, but a leisurely morning nonetheless. Even walking out of the front door and winding alley onto the street, there is much to see and many characters to observe. There is a house under construction next door, which is fascinating to understand the complexities (or not) of how houses are built. The hired builders form the villages outside Ha Noi will stay on the building site during construction, hanging their washing from support poles, and cooking over an open fire. I took myself out for a walk along the french-style, conifer-tree lined boulevards, avoiding the heat as much as possible. In the afternoon, I went silk shopping with Hien and Huong in covered markets and street stalls. A kaleidoscopic of colour, pattern and texture. The silks were luxuorious and sensual...I bought a rich purple to have made into a dress...For snacks we had various fruits and river snails...both delicious, especially the latter which were cooked in garlic, sugar, ginger, chilli and lemongrass. There was a special tool (which resembled a broken shard of mirror!) with which to scoop out the snail flesh. It was much better than other snails I have tried before, not at all chewy, but an after-taste of mud!

In the evening, the girls and I went to the boat bar again...our pool is improving with each visit. Had a little dance to 'Sex is on fire', which reminded me of going out with the girls back home, and trying unsuccessfully to chat to the locals...which was easier with my trusty translator Hien...I was told by the local guys that I was lovely but too tall for them haha...

Monday was an important day in the Buddhist calender, marking the burning of the money festival. Between the 10-13th of the 7th Lunar month this festival takes place, which coincides with the rainy season. They believe the ashes will be washed into the rivers, to enable the transferal of these gifts to their ancestors more easily. On every street corner, outside street-stove cafes, women squatted on the heels of their feet (a position Kat aspires to be able to do!), burning paper money. I visited the Quan Su, which is the ambassadors' 15th century pagoda.....These collection of buildings are now the HQ of the Vietnam Unified Buddhist Association. It was very spiritual being part of the daily prayers and lessons.

Waiting for Kat to arrive from the airport at the end of the alley sipping err whatever it was (oh eel soup), I had to hitch up my dress and speed after the taxi...It was so exciting to see each other! Feeling like a resident Ha Noian, I took Kat along the streets to Hoan Kiem Lake, and taught her how to cross Vietnemese roads-i.e. not running or changing your pace, but walking, almost arrogantly straight out in front of the traffic. It's when you suddenly get scared and run that accidents happen! Having been accompanied by the students or on my own for the last week, it was suprising how many hawkers approached us, when we were together...It was gratifying to be able to pass on information to Kat from what I had learned so far, even in one week! We ambled in a haphazard manner (indiginous to Kat ;-) ) along the grid system of the Old Quarter, sampling conker-like looking fruit, and soaking up the atmosphere and smells.

We can smell supper cooking and it smells GOOOODD!

An old school friend, Ann, who now lives in Ha Noi teaching English, came for supper and a catch up-6 years after seeing each other last!

Later that evening the students picked us and Martin up, and drove to the Mausoleum. This enabled further appreciation of the general craziness that govens Hanois streets, as one of the students so aptly put it "green light means go...red light means shit-go-faster!". The difference between the Old Quarter's organised chaos and the open area could not have been more contrasting! It was dark by this time, and the huge Soviet-style architecture Mausoleum looked even more austere than during the day. There were intensely bright flood lights lighting up Ba Dinh Square in a long uniform row. Vietnamese soldiers stood guard, their crisp, white uniform akin to bowling pins. Paths criss-cross in a grid, slicing through perfect mini-lawns of bright green grass. Everyone was forbidden to even touch the lawns, little toddlers unknowing, and excited by the prospect of rolling around on the grass were swiftly reprimanded with a short, sharp whistle. The President's palace next door to the square was once the home of Indo-China's governer, and was where Uncle Ho held meetings and received guests. Due to his belief in simple living, he lived in a stilted house in the grounds (which is still bloody nice anyway!) The palace and the surroundind walled gates, were lit up like the Suspension Bridge and looked very picturesque. After teaching the students to whistle with grass (I KNEW the British could impart some sort of knowledge), we went for a drink in the Old Quarter in a six storey bar (very cool-defiantely going back!) overlooking the Hoan Kiem Lake...there were swinging bench seats, hammock seats and fairy lights on the top level-very romantic. Great for a date...maybe not the first one ;-)

An early rise on Tuesday to visit Uncle Ho's tomb...The Mausoleum itself has a strict behavioural and dress code, no laughing, talking, sunglasses, bags or water in the hour long queue and inside...The glare of the bowling pins was intimidating, and those not adopting a respectful demeanour was certainly reminded. The body was laying in a cold, dark room, a faint red glow illuminating Uncle Ho's features. The walkway continued around three corners of the body, and very close to the glass casket. It was pretty eerie,and many Vietnamese were crying. It ironic, that the Father of the Nation, who believed in a simplistic, unassuming life, is displayed here in this huge, sombere place. He wished to be cremated in the countryside...

Walking around this afternoon, you can see so much building work. Vietnam seems to be racing towards the future at break-nexk speed. Great place to start a business...I was trying to encourage one of the students, whilst sitting in the roof top bar, to start-up the first speed dating company in Vietnam-think it will be a real hit if the government allows. The percentage of 20somethings is huge.

Food and yoga time...

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