Hectic in Hanoi!

---

Hi All.. Everyone OK? Hope So..

So here we are...we thought Bangkok was crazy for traffic but this place tops it by a long stretch.. Never have we seen so many bikes in such a small place, and somebody decided to do away with traffic lights and road markings just to up the stakes.. You literally took your life into your own hands when crossing the road, but it was this or just being satisfied with seeing one side of Hanoi! Somehow though we saw only one small bump in a city where there is no wrong side of the road and no correct direction to take - just hold your horn and go seemed to be the accepted way. If this was in the UK there would be a dozen road rage murders a day - here its the accepted norm and a great 'norm' at that.

The centre is realtively small, and with a lake the size of a football field in the middle it had an instant appeal as a place where madness and serenity meet head on and actually survive! To dislike this place is very difficult.

The Old quarter (and still the real centre) was originally named '36 Old Streets' as each street is dedicated to the sale of only one thing - i.e. silk street, Pickled Fish st, paper st, bottle st, chicken st, bamboo st and even Coffin St!

The usual mix of cafe's, bars, restaurants, bakeries, street sellers, shop's and of course, temples, gave us plenty to go at in the 4 days we had. As is often the case its not what you know but who you know and in this case Rosie's uncle James has a friend/colleague who was more than willing to lend a helping hand. Consequently we got to see things we would have missed and have experiences that would have normally escaped us. These included a half day with his niece drinking 'egg-coffee' (yes egg-coffee) and eating with the locals (by this we mean the rats - apparently a good sign over here!) in a back street eatery. Also an evening visit to a restaurant set up by a retired teacher and French-chef for the integration of disadvantaged and orphaned Hanoian children back into society. This place was 4-star and a real experience for both them and us (they are desparate to practice English as often as poss. - really tugged the heartstrings..)

After 2 days we took a trip with Dzung (James friend - an amazing guy who teaches Law, speaks 4 languages, faught and survived harrowing times in the Vietnam War and gave us more of a history lesson than any book could) to a place called Halong Bay. This is NE coast and a collection of over 2000 islands similar to Krabi, if you know it, and desribed as the 8th wonder of the world - very impressive.

Back to Hanoi for 2 more days and by this time we were cocky enough to use the 'bike-taxi's' - guy's who just sit around and wave you down whenever your near. You jump on, hang on, and before you know it your there - just a wicked way to get around, and cost next to nothing.

Hanoi has certainly been the highlight so far - great people, great place..

On the overnight train again to our next stop, 'Hue' (mid-Nam). Here we have just one day (small place though) and then our visit to 'Aloui' 60K inland. Site of 'Hamburger Hill' and Rosie's sponsered child, Thi Kim.

Hope were not boring you all - say if we are!

My dodgy stomach great you'll be pleased to know and were not getting a tan - you'll also be pleased to know!!

Thanks for reading - 1 week left before leaving Nam via Ho Chi Minh City.

Starting to miss you all believe it or not - not enough to come back just yet though.. Hope your good back there...?

Speak soon -
US..XX

---