The Perfume Pagoda

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70 kilometres outside Hanoi in Ha Tay Province is a complex of Temples and Pagodas, collectively called the Perfume Pagoda. I booked a trip to explore the Pagodas. At the appointed time, a luxury car pulled up and I climbed inside for the two-hour journey. Very comfortable! The scenery as you leave Hanoi is lovely with rice fields galore, small villages and various Pagodas, Temples and other shrines dotted around the landscape. The approach to Ben Duc (the nearest town to the Pagodas) goes through mainly flat terrain but as you drive closer, stunning, sharp-pointed hills appear, a vivid contrast to the flat landscape.

Arriving in Ben Duc, we made our way to the docking area where hundreds and hundreds of rowing boats line the edge of the Yen River. Negotiations ensues with the women who row the boats. A price fixed and agreed, I climbed into a small red rowing boat and we set off. The river side is beautiful with stunning views of the sharp-pointing limestone hills lining the river. It is an hours' rowing, so plenty of time to admire the scenery and it was ever so tranquil. I had the boat to myself with the guide and rower. My guide explained that during the Festival in January, tens of thousands pilgrims descend on the village to visit the Pagodas and up to 32 can fit into one rowing boat! Amazing!

The lone woman rowed steadily for a full hour seemingly inexhausible and the boat glided on the water, which was a sort of green shade. Every so often it cleared up enough to see the waterlogged fauna. Along the river banks, I could see Kingfishers, what looked like heron, various dragonflies and butterflies, dogs gamboling in the rice fields - all very pastoral.

Upon arrival, it was a short climb to the first Temple, Thien Tru Pagoda, built during the 18th Century although the site has more than 2000 years history and religious buildings. Inside the temple are 5 Gold statues with various offerings of food laid out in front. The inside of the Temple is highly ornate with much gold and red paint and various carved reliefs depicting religious events in Vietnam.

Outside, two large stone lions stand guard, impervious to the blazing sun and dotted round the courtyard are various monuments and shrines. Brightly coloured bunting flutter in the wind. The curled rooves reminiscent of boats. My guide explained the curls are to denonate waves and boats on the sea.

More climbing later lead to the cable car station, built by the well-known Austrian company Doppelmayr. The cable car ride is spectacular with stunning views of the mountain and the path pilgrims take when they walk up the mountain to the Pagodas. A dramatic valley appeared near the top and the cable car glided over.

Still more climbing ensued then a stone arch appears. Walking through the arch, there are 120 steps down to the actual Perfume Temple through stunning cliff and rock formations. The steps have been cut onto the rock & are slightly uneven. A stumbling climb down later, I was inside the Pagoda, which is actually a cave. after the heat of the sun, it was blissfully cool inside the cave.

To one side is a 17th Century Bell and at the opposite side is a well to draw water up to the Pagoda. All he rock formations inside the Temple have names such as rice rock, boy and girl mountain and a carved statue, constructed in 1793. All very impressive. Further into the cave is a shrine covered in flowers and candles, all offerings. It is Vietnam's premier religious site for Buddhists and most days there are pilgrims making offerings.

Climbing up the 120 steps worked up a thirst and I was ready for a cooling Bia!

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