Cabin fever

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AAAHHHH!! I have been stuck here in Hanoi for almost 10 days waiting on my Russian visa invitation to arrive in the mail. What a headache!! I have been worried about this part of my trip for months now and here I am finally facing it. The dreaded Russian visa. Did you know you have to be "invited" to Russia in order to visit it? That's right...you have to have someone in the country vouch for you for your entire stay in the country. Luckily I Gerry gave me some invaluable information on how to obtain this illusive invitation and it should be on its way to me. I am beginning to think the UPS man can't find the hostel in the maze of crazy streets that make up Hanoi. *sigh*
At any rate, as for cities to be stuck in, Hanoi really isn't so bad. I found a wonderful hostel tucked away on a back alley (Once again, thanks to Ger). Hanoi Backpackers has been my little haven and home away from home during this hair-pulling period of cement pounding and incomprehensible paperwork. In fact, HB has probably been the BEST place I have stayed throughout my entire journey. Run by 2 young Australian guys it's VERY clean, comfortable and safe. I have free internet access, good coffee and tea at all hours... Loads of people to socialize with...what more could I want? (ermm...nothing but a Russian visa).
After one night of smelling my bed-neighbors smelly socks, I moved myself into "the Nunnery" AKA the girls room. What a throw back to my days at DG! Bras on the floor, glasses hidden in the corner with unintelligible liquid, bathroom overflowing with hair and beauty products. You just cross the hall from the mixed room and it's like you are in another world. It's actually been quite fun.
I met my first and only American female traveler here at the hostel. Chinita, a bubbly, strong African American woman has been a blast to hang out with. Not to mention she is a former JET in Toyama ken, so we have had loads to talk about. (She also adds to my personal theory that Toyama JETS are the friendliest!). Chinita is doing the same sort of post-JET travel as me, although she's headed to Singapore and India next. *Check out her webpage at www.wordgyrl.typepad.com*
I was a little down in the dumps about spending my birthday without the girls since they have gone onto Australia. But it didn't take much to round up a group of people from the hostel to go out with. Gerard, Chinita, Louise, Jackie, Nicky, and I went out to dinner and 10 cent beers at a bia hoi on the corner. We sat on little plastic chairs on the street and toasted to my 26th and happy travels. I couldn't have asked for a better way to celebrate while in Hanoi. The Irish lasses even gave me a birthday present before they left so I would have something to open. On the morning of the 21st I sat up on the top bunk of my dorm bed and teared up as I opened up the package and found letters and a collection of pictures of us together.
Because I have had to be in Hanoi to submit and collect paperwork I haven't been able to do and see everything in Northern Vietnam I initially intended. I missed trekking through the wondrous hills of Sapa and climbing the steps to the Perfume Pagoda. I have, however, spent my free time walking around Lake Hoan Kiem and the old quarter. I'm not sure I have ever been in any city like this where there is so much LIFE happening on the streets. Just stepping out of the hostel I am met with people washing their hair in buckets, men getting a shave, butchers chopping up meat on newspapers on the ground, families having meals seated on little plastic chairs...All around, the people of Hanoi are going through the regimens of their daily lives on the red brick sidewalks outside. It's exciting, colorful, and at times a tad revolting. Don't mind the old man picking his nose or the squawking chicken in the hands of a young woman about to be beheaded. Every step continues to be an adventure.

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Comments

[Liz]

Check you email!
I'm sorry that you've been stuck in Hanoi and have had to miss some of your planned treks, but you still make the best of every minute. You're a good traveler. By the way, check your email. I have a proposition.