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Published: March 22nd 2006
Vietnam never ceases to amaze. The scenery alone is so diverse and just so beautiful! I know I have said this over and over but it really truely is and SaPa is no exception- in fact I think it is a favourite of mine, a trip highlight!
Brookes is off in Halong Bay (where I visited last year) while I opted for a new adventure trekking and visiting the hilltribe villages around SaPa. We spent the day in Hanoi after arriving from the nighttrain at 5am. I caught another night train the following night to arrive in Lau Cai. In my cabin were 3 hilarious Kiwi's in their 50's. They were just so funny carrying on about their adventures with their funny sense of humour!!
In Lau Cai we were put on a bus to SaPa, 40km and wound our away through the mountains. We arrived at the hotel and had breakfast and set on our way. My group had myself, another canadian, Nadia, and 2 Dutch girls, Cecil and Mia. Our guide, May (age 17) led the way in her traditional Red Szapa costume. It didn't take long to notice than May had a great sense of humour and kept us laughing the entire time.
It was a bit foggy when we started out but the sun came out and burnt most of it away. We could almost see the tip of the tallest mountain in Vietnam, Fansipan Moutain stands at about 3170 metres. The rice fields here are unlike any other in Vietnam. They are layered downthe mountain in big steps almost. The water can then filter to all levels all the way down. Each level is also able to hold enough to nourish the rice there. It takes 6 years of planting rice in one place to begin producing anything. They use buffalo droppings as manure. May refered to these droppings as the chocolate for our banana pancakes!!
Anyway, we visited the tribe of the Black H'Mong. They are distinguished by their black hats and black stockings. Many of these girls followed us the entire 2 days offering hand on the slippery parts, stories of how they live their lives, and also their arts and crafts for sale. After 3 hours trekking we had lunch by a bridge looking onto the hills and over the stream- quite the view! We then continues for another 3 hours in the afternoon passing through villages of the Dzay minority. We stopped for the overnight in one of the houses. They were very hospitable and offered us plenty of delicious food and drinks. Another couple was also staying in the same homestay and they joined us, along with their guide for a night of storytelling and shots of rice wine! Even still, we hit the hay early for a good nights sleep.
The next day we awoke to the smell of pancakes cooking over an open fire. We helped with breakfast and enjoyed the (real) chocolate despite May's continuing jokes! It had rained heavily during the night and was just letting up as we set off for the day. The morning was off and on showers. The paths were slippery and our group had our fair share of slipping and slidding but everyone made it ok, if a little muddy. The afteroon cleared and we were rewarded with not only a bit of sunshine but some of our best views yet- we could see the top of Fansipan! We stopped to take it all in on a ricky waterfall. Before lunch we also visited a Red Dzao home (May's people, although not in her village). It was very bare and basic from what we are used to. A bed made of bamboo sits in the corner of the room and there is no matress on it. The blankets are piled high for warmth. There is a small kitchen and a fire for cooking and warmth. Little boys, holding close to their mom peer at us with great curiosity. They do not want to be photographed but we could tell they wanted to interact but were content to sit and observe.
After lunch we were picked up in an old Russian jeep for the return trip to to the town of SaPa. I took the chance to get cleaned up a bit and met Nadia for a trip into town to explore. We met up with May along the way and took here for hot chocolate (her first ever!) at a place called "Baguette et Chocolat". It is a cafe started by a group of french visitors who wanted to make a difference in the lives of vietnamese children. They cafe and hotel trains street children and orphans skills of the service industry. They work for the experience and are also paid. In exchange for their time they are also go to school.
My group met up later on at one of the bars in town for a couple of beer and some pool. The rule is that if you win you play the next game. A couple of Black H'mong girls dominated the table for most of the night! Myself and another tour guide Tao managed to knock them off but they soon regained the table and kept control!
The next day we set out for Cat Cat village. It was all downhill on the way their so around noon it made for a hot and tiring walk back up! The scenery was similar to what we had seen the past couple of days but the day was gorgeous. Hot, sunny, and clear so we could ask for nothing more. There was even a nice breeze to help keep us cool. There was a waterfall int he village and also a power station that the french had built in the early 20th century.
We split for lunch but May (in her street clothes) and I rejoined afterwards for a walk up the Dragon Jaw mountain in the middle of town. On our way up we passed through orchid gardens and manicured paths where many residents of SaPa come to hang out and picnic. It is a beautiful park in the middle of their town, all it takes to get there is the ebergy to climb up! From the summit we could take in the incredible view of the town and surrounding mountains. On the way down we caught a show demonstrating the traditonal dances and songs of the ethnic groups we had seen the 2 days before.
A fabuous 3 days in SaPa, I would love to return someday, perhaps to conquer the Fansipan moutain myself! I caught the overnight train back to Hanoi where I will meet Brookes and we will spend a couple of days here before headig back to Bangkok.
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Alicia Bell
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Wow
Wow I cant believe May had never had hot chocolate. We take so many things for granted here! That town sounds beautiful! You make me want to travel Becky!