Hue

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We checked into our hotel in Hue (pronounced Hway) early in the afternoon and decided to brave the heat and go for a stroll along the nearby Perfume River. This wasn't quite the pleasant stroll I anticipated. Although we'd mastered the technique of successfully crossing the numerous necessary roads, by walking together purposefully and slowly while watching out for drivers not paying attention, it was challenging to pick our away around all the motor scooters and bikes parked on the sidewalk, the holes in the sidewalk, street vendors, mechanics fixing or spray painting their bikes, piles of scaffolding and bits of loose wire, etc. We planned to cross on one bridge, walk through the park to the next bridge, and back to our hotel. The exhaust fumes on the long bridges were accentuated by the heat and most of the entrances to the park on the far side were locked so we'd walked 2/3rds of it before we could enter. We were glad to get back to our hotel.

The following day we visited the Imperial City, much like Beijing's Forbidden City, and learned about life there. When it came to eating, the emperor had a taster but he also ate with chopsticks, only used once each, made from Kim Giao wood which, according to what we read, changed colour instantly upon contact with poison. Although men were castrated to become court eunuchs, it was supposedly lucky for a woman to give birth to a child of indeterminate sex. The child had to be sent to the imperial city to become a eunuch but the parents were paid well for the child, to the point where they didn't have to work any more, and their village was exempt from taxes for 3 or 4 years.

We also toured the mausoleum of Tu Duc, one of Vietnam's emperors. The mausoleums were more like villages so that the emperor would have everything he needed in the afterlife. Tu Duc's originally had 50 buildings but many have been destroyed. Our guide told us that Tu Duc began a new dynasty and, when he became emperor, he dug up his predecessor's remains, ground them up, mixed them with gunpowder, and fired them. Afraid that his remains might be treated similarly, when his time came, he was buried secretly and those who buried him were killed so they couldn't tell anyone exactly where his body lay. Although he has a tomb, it is unlikely his remains are inside. Although he had 104 wives, he had had mumps and was unable to father any children so his dynasty was shortlived.

When an emperor died, his wives had three choices: they could return home; move to a nunnery; or live in the emperor's mausoleum until they died. However when a Vietnamese woman marries she now belongs to her husband's family and to return home would bring shame to her family so none chose this option. Most moved to nunneries. Only a couple of the emperor's tombs are safe to visit because the others were built using quicklime mixed with molasses for cement and, as this doesn't last indefinitely, they are collapsing and unsafe.



In Vietnam we are finally hearing a lot of western music in hotels, bars, etc., especially Kenny G and Michael Buble. Whether this is because these artists are popular with the locals or because they are trying to appeal to western tourists, I don't know. In the hotels the staff are eager to practice their English and we are asked a lot of questions, often the same ones over and over. In one bar the eager bartender, hearing we were Canadian, said he had an uncle in Canada. "Where does he live?" we asked. He thought hard. "Toronto? Vancouver?" we prompted. He thought for a moment more then announced "California", obviously pleased with himself for remembering.

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Photos

The Citadel at Hue
Hue was the capital of Vietnam from 1902-1945 under the Nguyen dynasty.

Under reconstruction
Most of the Citadel was razed during the French and then the American wars, however a few structures remain amongst the rubble.

Mieu Temple
Well maintained tribute to 10 of the Nguyen dynasty emperors.

Comments

[Judy Blagden]

Vietnam
Despite spending two days in Hue, it rained constantly so our tours of the places you visited were none too comfortable and where cut short. Your very informative blog of visits to the Imperial Palace and mausaloeums were very interesting and provided some additional information. Such a lovely country. Hope you enjoy Cambodia which will provide another contrast