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Published: February 20th 2006
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Our Tropical Island Paradise
Koh Mah viewed from Mae Haad, Koh Phangan 9 January-24 January
We arrived at Bangkok airport excited to see the blue skies, warm sunshine and palm trees. We had to queue for almost 45 minutes to get our passports stamped and then queue another 45 minutes to get a taxi which then took 45 minutes to get to our hostel, one of the nearest ones to the aiport. The Thai friendliness and hospitality of the next couple weeks more than made up for the misery of Bangkok traffic.
We wasted no time in seeing the major sights. Sasi, Marcus' housemate from Oxford, works for the Thai Foreign Ministry in Bangkok and was very helpful in booking us a fantastic hostel and recommending the sights. The hostel was brand new, indeed, we were the first guests. Pitt, the manager went out of his way to make us feel at home and make the best of our time in Thailand. Thank you Pitt! Good luck with the hostel business!
On our second night Sasi treated us to a Thai dinner where we ordered and shared several dishes. A traditional Thai dinner exhibits a wide selection of tastes, offering sweet, sour and salty. This is consumed with Thai white
Marcus relaxing
On the beach at Ban Krut with a coconut rice.We enjoyed some Thai desserts which were tasty but difficult to describe. Desserts include warm or cold bowls of coconut based soup with sweet ingredients. It was really good to see Sasi and catch up. Thank you again Sasi for your help.We hope your work projects are going smoothly.
In Bangkok we toured a number of wats, or Buddhist temples, the grand palace and took a boat cruise up the river. We went to the night bazaar for some shopping bargains and good food.?One of our favorite activities in Thailand was eating. We looked forward to the next meal to try a red or green curry, coconut chicken soup, fried rice or something new. We were more than satisfied at every meal and we miss it right now. We never tired of it.
The drinks are heavenly. Fresh juices or shakes from coconuts, papayas, mangos, bananas, kiwis for starts. All for fantastic prices. We got carried away the first few days and ordered a couple shakes or drinks at each meal! The fresh coconuts are a treat. Costing only 20-25 Baht (50 cents) they are huge and are opened with a hatchet, revealing several cups of delightfully fresh
coconut water. Then the "flesh" is scooped out with a spoon.
From Bangkok we took a day trip to Ayutthaya, the ancient capital of Siam. This city has a number of ruins to explore, mostly wats. We hired a family-operated tuk-tuk for the day to show us around. Tuk tuks are the three-wheeled motor vehicles which wizz around the streets at high speeds. They are safer than they look and are the means of transportation for many Thais and tourists. We had one of our best meals in Ayutthaya, which included prawns freshly caught from the river.
Our objective after Bangkok was to relax. For months we have looked forward to a small bungalow by the beach. From the start we resolved to avoid, as much as possible, the touristy places. We were in search of that elusive, perfect beach--preferably one without Leanardo di Caprio. We came pretty close and avoided Leanardo di Caprio as well!
Our first stop was at Ban Krut, on the east coast of Thailand, close to the Burmese border to the West. We stayed there a couple nights and relaxed on the beach, consumed coconuts and shakes and ate very well. The
Marcus and Sasi
Picture was taken in our lovely youth hostel in Sukhumvit, Bangkok. Looks more like a 5 star hotel lobby! one problem was that Marcus was stung by an invisible jellyfish just ten feet from the shore. The scab is still there but it seems to be getting better.
After Ban Krut we journeyed to the islands in the Gulf of Thailand. We took a very, very slow night ferry from Surat Thani to Koh Phangan, the island twice removed from the mainland. We cleverly avoided the more popular party island of Koh Samui. We slept on mats on the ferry along with some natives and fellow travellers.
Upon arriving on Koh Phangan, we took that extra step to isolate ourselves from most of the human race. We headed North-West to the pseudo-island of Koh Ma. Koh Ma is just a few hundred feet from the mainland and is reachable by a natural sand bridge at low tide, or by just wading in waist-deep water. This was our paradise for the next week. Only eight small bungalows, far removed from the full-moon parties, drinking games, macho contests, bar fights, 'massage parlours' (-; etc. That little bit of water wards off but the most resolved.
In that week we did lots of swimming and snorkelling, hired a kayak and...hired a jeep on Koh Phangan. Yes, we went off-roadin' in the lesser developed parts of Thailand, just like the A-team. We kicked lots of dust into the air as we covered most of the island that had any kind of road. We busted into four wheel drive and low gear going up (and down) some hair raising hills. That was our kind of fun. (The 4x4 training day with Fiona's Dad came in handy!) We drove through the jungle, the central part of the island too. Even scarier, Fiona drove. Amazing!
After sunset, the typical noises of the tropical islands take on more mysterious impressions. Nestled under our mosquito net we could hear a funny scratching and something being dropped on the roof. We were told later that it was likely bats. Our bungalow and porch was also invaded by the occasional cockroach. Our outdoor bathroom was haunted by two large spiders and a small scorpion. After a few days of resisting a shower, Marcus valiantly killed the scorpion to make the shower safe for Fiona. And the mosquitos...even with spray we estimate that we have each been bitten 3-4 times per day. Most girls return from Thailand with a beautiful bronze tan, Fiona looks like she has chicken pox.
We indulged ourselves in different foods at different resorts. The green curry stands as one of our favorites everywhere we tried it.
We must also extend our appreciation to Chai, the manager of Koh Mah. Chai made us feel right at home and even gave Marcus some cooking lessons in Thai desserts. We truly recommend Koh Ma island to all those wanting to get away from it all and enjoy the best of Thai hospitality. Over all, we loved Thailand and were very sad to leave. We crossed the border into Malaysia on 24 January after an ardous combination of ferry rides and buses from our island paradise.
Thanks again Sasi for your help; it was great to see you. We will be in touch as we prepare to go to DC.
We somehow managed to leave Thailand, despite our fantastic experiences there and our partaking of the lotus flower dessert.
"Branches they bore of that enchanted stem,
Laden with flower and fruit, whereof they gave
To each, but whoso did receive of them,
And taste, to him the gushing of the wave
Far far away did seem to mourn and rave
On alien shores; and if his fellow spake,
His voice was thin, as voices from the grave;
And deep-asleep he seem'd, yet all awake,
And music in his ears his beating heart did make ...
...Then some one said, "We will return no more";
And all at once they sang, "Our island home
Is far beyond the wave; we will no longer roam."
--The Lotus Eaters, Alfred Lord Tennyson
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James
non-member comment
Hey
I haven't checked your blogs for a while, but all your photos look great. I laughed when I saw Marcus on the beach looking so serious - which is the impression you like to give to people isn't it? You looked really happy on the tropical island paradise wedding anniversary celebration. Well its 2.5 years since we all met now isn't it. I am looking forward to hearing at length about your adventures in person when I visit in May. Will be in touch when you get to Wyoming. James from the Yorkshire badlands!