Adventures in Thailand


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April 8th 2008
Published: April 8th 2008
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Hello

Here's our second blog for those of you who are reading it (and thanks for all the emails from people saying how much they enjoyed and particularly for how few abusive emails we've received).

We flew from HK to Bangkok on the last day of March and have been in Thailand since.

As we'd remembered it, Bangkok was an assault on the senses, although we both thought that it was less hectic than it seemed five years ago - probably just because we've got a bit more experience of Asian cities since then and so are a bit more used to the hustle and bustle, traffic and noise!

It has been about 35 degrees each day since we've been here - made easier to bear in Bangkok by the rooftop pool at our hotel... We went to the Grand Palace on our first day - a very impressive ancient temple complex in the centre of the city, an oasis of relaxation and calm, giving respite from all of Bangkok's insanity, except for the blaring sun. The King's sister had died recently and was lying in state so part of the complex was closed and lots of the local were wearing black (the Thais appear genuinely to revere their Royal family). Whilst in Bangkok, we also visited Jim Thompson's House. He was an American who fell in love with Thailand a few decades back and dedicated himself to revistalising Thailand's silk trade - judging by his exceptionally impressive house (combining 6 traditional Thai houses), he did pretty well for himself.

We went briefly to Patpong (the infamous street of sex shows etc) and then only to sort out some plane tickets (honestly - we must be getting old!). One night we ate at Cabbages and Condoms, which is a very touristy/ex-pat-y large open air restaurant overlooking a central courtyard filled with fairy lights, the main purpose of which is to raise money to promote awareness of STDs etc. Good grub too.

After Bangkok, we took a locals' bus to Sukhothai, an ancient capital of Thailand. They don't appear to get a huge number of westerners on the locals' buses as the conducter lady seemed to take a shine to us and took it upon herself to assist us with getting our free lunch (it really wasn't that difficult, but we must have looked particularly dopey that day...) and making sure we got off at the right place. The reason for going slightly off the beaten track to Sukhothai is that there is a beautiful huge old ruined temple complex, which we cycled around for the day - very relaxing (apart from the heat...). All 12th and 13th century "ruins" in surprisingly good state of repair - the Thais take pride in restoring old monuments as well as in building large new complexes.

We then took the bus on to Chaing Mai which is where we are now. It is a pretty laid back place and a hub for all sorts of adventures (trekking, mainly). We've done a cookery course for one day, which was excellent (we now make a superb Penang curry, but will of course have completely forgotten how by the end of this trip!), strolled around a number of temples and today went on a mini-trek (about four hours) as well as an elephant ride (ours was called "Samsee", he was a friendly chap, if a little smelly), a visit to a hill tribe and a much-needed swim in a waterfall (we were "glowing" profusely after the trek!). Yesterday, at one of the temples we took part in "Monk Chat" which does exactly what it says on the tin. Quite surreal really, chatting to young monks in orange robes about life in England...

Tomorrow we are heading a bit further North to Chiang Khong and will cross the border into Laos on Thursday morning and then take a two day slow boat trip to Luang Prabang...




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13th April 2008

Hi from Argentina
Dear smelly elli riders, Great to read your Bankock experiences,it brought a lot back. I am really envious of your trip up the Mecong as that is exactly how I wanted to get to Laos. But as you know, my companion was less than enthusiastic! There is a great book written by a french lady who travelled up the Mecong when Laos was just absorbed into the Indochina empire and her experiences will make your hair curl! kee sending the breathless , pacey bloggs. Love Penny

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