Sunken city

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Catch a local bus for the 4-hour journey - starts OK but as we climb into the mountains quickly becomes like a rollercoaster. The driver throws the bus into blind corners whilst overtaking, and hurtles down slopes to carry enough speed to get up the next ones. P and I buckle up, the only ones on the bus to do so.

We strike up a conversation with a 60-something monk, sitting at the front of the bus, dressed in an orange robe and with a leather briefcase on his lap. We stop for lunch and he walks alongside me as I lift the lids on the big silver pots at the roadside - "I don't think you can handle that - too hot for you" he chuckles. He sits with us while we slurp a bowl of noodles, telling us about the upcoming Thai new year celebrations, then disappears off for a quick fag before the bus leaves again.

We're dropped in the centre of the small town, and have to charter two motorbike (Honda C90) taxis to take us to the hotel, both of us squashed up against our drivers, our massive rucksacks in between their legs.

Awesome marble and teak hotel, tiered down a slope right to the edge of the huge Khao Laem Reservoir. Paula doubles over with laughter as I try and stick up my moz net for the first time. It is the size of a wedding veil. My feet stick out the end. A bimble around town on a scooter, then later on jump into the lake for a quick dip as the sun sets.

Early morning breakfast (golden omelette still sizzling on the plate) whilst looking down on the lake covered in mist. Can hear the town on the other side slowly coming to life - bikes, cockerels, dogs barking, circular saws...

We hire a bamboo kayak and paddle out into the mist. The lake is shaped like a cartoon paint splat - it was created by the building of a dam, flooding the forests and villages in the valley. The water level is low because it's the dry season, and the tops of trees and the roofs of flooded buildings poke through the surface. Come across a partially submerged temple, exposed by the low water.

Paddle on for a few hours until the sun gets too hot, and turn back. On the way we come across 2 dogs in the middle of the lake. They have a good look as we pass, then carry on swimming to the other side. Takes them another ten minutes, where they drag themselves out, too exhausted to even shake.

Later we share a scooter and go 60k northwest, as far it's possible to go - right to the Burmese border. We do a u-turn at the rolled razor wire and armed guards and speed off. You can cross, but as P is still without a passport as it's a bit of a risk that she might not be able to get back again. On the way back we stumble across the closing ceremony of a local football tournament, and watch as the winning team dance in the centre circle to a live band. Have to hold back Paula from running over to join in.

That evening we walk across a wooden bridge (the longest in Thailand) to a Mon settlement on other side, and watch the local teenagers buzz about on their pimped scooters - all haircuts and rolled sleeves, cigarettes behind their ears. Only a handful of westerners about - quite a few Thai tourists in chino shorts, white trainers and baseball caps. Have a cracking 'Mon' curry - rich tomato-red sauce with huge chunks of root vegetables that have stewed in it for hours.

Could easily have stayed longer here but head back to Kanchanaburi, ready for a return to Bangkok to pick up P's new passport...

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Photos

On the bus.
Shortly before the brakes failed.

Xan jumps in.
Onto a submerged tree stump.

Spindly stilts
And that's just his legs.

Comments

[anonymous]

I sat next to a 60 year old monk on the new East London today. Not really. Sounds like you're having some right old adventures!