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February 5th 2017
Published: March 23rd 2017
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So with India completed, where next was the big question for me? One thing for sure, I needed some rest and relaxation as the last four months had been constant tours. With so many wonderful destinations in the world, it was going to be a difficult decision. Then I discovered my plans to chill out, coincided with my friend Martin, who I'd met on the Indochina Encompassed Tour. Used to having company, it would be lovely to explore some of the Thai Islands together. I flew from Cochin overnight, via Bangkok and into Krabi, early on the 5th Feb. The weather, baking. It was a short commute from the airport and I was looking forward to catching up with my mate. Martin having been in Krabi since the 1st, we knew we didn't intend staying there long. Thank God! I did not like this destination one bit. A tourist pit hole, avoid at all costs would be my advice. Obviously we started the day with a catch up over a cuppa and laid some plans for the following week. A liquid lunch followed having missed decent G&T, with us whiling away the afternoon. Later that evening we grabbed dinner in a great little place called 'May and Marks'. Not quite ready to start once again on the Thai cuisine, I decided on a mix of, Greek and NZ with a fabulous fresh Feta Cheese Salad with Avocado. It was wonderful having dinner alfresco. Luckily though, we had a cover above us as the lightening struck and the heavens opened. Typical. I'd flown in for sun and sun alone! ? Although, there was something soothing, almost, seeing a proper downpour, with this typical for my homeland. The following morning, we returned to the same venue for breakfast after the excellent food the previous night. Still not fed up of some of my favourite Indian delights, I ordered a Raspberry Lassi accompanied by a Cheese, Mushroom, Ham Omelette. Again superb fresh ingredients and Krabi's saving grace. It was then onto Ao Nang to start our little adventure. A short 30 minute taxi drive along the coast got us to our accommodation. The owner a little bonkers, but very helpful made up for this quirky little place. Ao Nang being one of the destinations, I had visited on my Malaysia to Bangkok tour. The weather at that time, pretty dire so was more than happy to return and what a difference! The sun beamed, not a rain cloud in sight and although still touristy, it had a nice beach and island coastal views. It was a pretty location and a good base for two nights. That afternoon, I took a stroll along the beachfront before catching up with Martin for a cheeky afternoon cocktail while we appreciated the sea view before heading to the beach to swim and crisp up. The water, warm, like entering a bath and the sand fine and golden. Longtail boats positioned sporadically along the waters edge of the bay made this a picture postcard destination. As I strolled along the tide line, the surface beneath my feet changed to more shell fragments as I headed towards the large limestone cliffs that sheltered this bay. What with all this hard work of sunbathing, swimming and walking, we'd built up an appetite for dinner. The total irony of this situation when I find myself in an Indian restaurant called 'Tandoori Nights' now happily devouring a fish coconut curry and rice. The chunks of white fish melting in my mouth encapsulated in the silky spiced coconut sauce. This now, not even 48 hours since I'd left India! ? There was definitely something to be said about resorts that understood a western palette. ? A couple of cocktails followed mimicking something that Del Boy and Rodney would have ordered in a beach front bar, complete with live music from an old time, New Yorker. It had been a great start for this chilled out adventure. The next morning, we were up early to embark on a day trip to Hong Islands, part of Than Bok Khorani National Park. Considered to be among the most beautiful in the Krabi Province and easily reached by a 30 minute speed boat ride from Ao Nang, we thought it a good choice. Our tour guide for the day, an enthusiastic, middle aged crazy Thai lady just added to this adventure. The trip started with 'Hong Island's Lagoon'. A stunning naturally formed sealake, edged by tree covered limestone cliffs. A true hidden 'chambre' which is what the name, 'Hong' refers to in Thai. As we entered through the small dramatic cliff passage, this wonderful compact lagoon showed off its true beauty. The water glowed an almost radioactive green as the sun stroked its surface in the shallowest of parts. After concluding a lap around its internals we headed to the relaxing remote island of Pakbia. Its white soft sand a dream to walk on and the sea a cool yet comfortable temperature, crystal clear. Rocks and the odd tree framed its edges, making this resemble paradise. We bathed in the shallows enjoying the varied sea life that swam around us before I walked the length of this golden stretch of sand. Returning to the boat early, we grabbed seats towards the front, fed up of the fumes and noise from the boat engines. Oh, this did not go down well with the Russian couple that had been sitting there previously. Trust us to piss off the Russians! Still not backing down and having no intention of moving, since seats were just provided based on when you got on the boat, we held firm. Typical the next stop, Lahding Island was only ten minutes away. ? A tiny paradise with a rocky hidden cove that you could access through rainforest. Me, ever the nosy one, went to check it out. A picture postcard setting, housing a single long tailed traditional boat, framed by foliage as you looked out to the water, from the confines of the island. The rest of our limited time there spent crisping up. The Russians now ensuring they weren't going to lose their seats again stalked the area near the boat. As we headed to Hong Island's Bay, we anchored up to Koh Deang, a mere rock in the sea to snorkel from. This allowed us to view more varied marine life. Not wearing contact lenses or glasses, only goggles, I was pleased the fish were big enough for me to see. ? Besides, being a complete water baby, I loved the feeling of freedom that being out of my depth brought and the sensation I was part of another world. Our final stop of the day, Hong Island's Bay. A definite highlight providing a shady spot to enjoy lunch before making the most of this uninhabitated destination with only birds, gibbons and monitor lizards being local residents. The water so clear you could see striped yellow fish bobbing all around. As you laid on the sand your body sank into its softness. The view simply stunning with forested limestone cliffs hiding this tropical paradise. Although it appeared when we were first were dropped off, it was en masse with tourists, this was certainly not the case. A truly stunning destination and a fantastic finish to a wonderful day. Even the snorkelling was great with a myriad of fish all around. Collecting my things up when ready to leave, I only appeared to have one flip flop. Given I hadn't worn them, I was hopeful it had dropped out in the boat. Our crazy Thai guide rounding us all up before making our way back left me no time to look. Once on board she served melon and pineapple and I asked if she'd seen my other shoe as she came round. Her response "Lady, it on island". I shout "Who lost slipper? No-one answer." Oh well, at least I'd left behind a little part of me in this hidden paradise. ? The speed boat gave full throttle on our return to Ao Nang. A day in the sunshine surrounded by stunning landscapes definitely aided my relaxation. My tan was even coming along nicely. A shower proved this before heading to dinner looking slightly flambèd. ? It was really strange that tonights meal migrated to an Indian feel aswell with us sharing a grilled Red Snapper, Chicken coated in yoghurt and cheese and Fries. The guy in the restaurant, fantastic with my exhaustive list of needs provided Martin with his spice and me with none. The fish fell from the skeletal frame with us devouring every mouthful. The chicken pieces coated were both flavoursome and moist. We'd ended up with an early dinner as doing nothing all day but lounging in incredible scenery can give you the munchies. ? After dinner we migrated towards the beach picking up a couple of Mai Tai cocktails on the way to watch the sunset. Quite a crowd had gathered and it was easy to see why. Losing the final light of the day, the sky illuminated pink, orange and yellow cross the watery horizon. It was beautiful and I felt I had finally experienced the wonder of Ao Nang. Already it was time to leave the following morning and go stay on an Island. We'd chosen Koh Lanta, based on both Condé Nast and G Tours writing recent features, on this hidden gem locating ourselves in the south near Kantiang Beach. Both in agreement, we were done with young clubbing resorts. Martin being in his fourth decade of life and me approaching it, we didn't want to stand out or more likely, out do them. ? Thinking we'd go straight from Ao Nang there by ferry, we were a little surprised when our taxi took us back to Krabi to board the boat. You just never know whats going to happen when on island time. Once on board, mixologist Williams, got to work creating a couple of G&T's complete with fresh lime juice served in empty water bottles. After all, we wanted to maintain some class. ? With a cooling breeze in my hair, drink in hand and lovely scenery to admire, the two hour ferry ride quickly dissappeared under our noses. On arrival at Saladan Pier, we grabbed a songthaew (an open back pick up) and arrived at our wonderful accommodation 30 minutes later complete with balcony and sea view. Both starving and a little squiffy, we grabbed lunch across the road in this sweet simple sheltered place overlooking the water. The Thai owner, lovely and the food good. I finally embraced the cuisine of the country I was in and tucked into Pad Thai. A dip in the sea later that afternoon made for a pleasant start. That evening, I took a walk, to check out a restaurant that had rave reviews, along with the best views for us to enjoy as a treat, in a few days time. The walk itself, not the most pleasant, along roadsides inclusive of monkeys and through built up little areas took alot longer than anticipated. Obviously the map I had, was not to scale. ? Before even reaching the restaurant, the sun was setting on another day and I was luckily enough to catch this from a beach area, I'd stumbled upon. It really was stunning and picture perfect. Needing to continue on, I reached 'Noon Bar' as the last of the light slipped away. Reservation finally made after the 20 minute debacle of her thinking I wanted a table right then, I made my way back along the now pitch black roadway with only my phone as my light. Thank God, the monkeys had gone to sleep. I finally made it back, Martin looking slightly dissapointed, after being on the cusp of thinking I'd buggered off and he'd now have peace and quiet going forward. Chivas already in hand, in celebration! ? Luckily for my friend, he could now join me toasting my own safe return with a few more G&Ts.? It was a leisurely start the next day with us taking a short ten minute stroll to grab breakfast. As we plonked ourselves down and admired the crescent bay that outstretched before us from this lovely little place I could clearly see where I had walked the evening before. Bloody typical, I could have returned in half the time and been walking through powdery white sand. We were in fact at Kantiang Beach. Fed and watered, it was time to chill and enjoy these wonderful surroundings. It was a beautiful stretch of sand and very quiet so finding a spot was easy. Sat in the searing heat of the sun for any longer than two minutes, the slightly cooler, lapping water enticed you in. The Andaman Sea, a perfect temperature but very salty. Once refreshed from my dip, I meandered the whole length of the beach. As the sun dried my wet skin, forming a tight salt crust, I felt like a salt baked cod. It was back in the water again to shake it off and wallow a while to cool down. There certainly were few people but much marine life on the foreshore. Small white almost translucent crabs dominated this. Wonderfully camoflaged against the sand as they went about their business, busily digging, shifting and creating mounds. One local there, was using a traditional fishing technique. Watching and waiting, throwing his net, only at the point when it counted. As I sat back and watched him, I admired his patience, skill and determination. Surprisingly his catch was impressive for such a primitive technique. The only thing putting me off, was the way he then threw the caught fish, up the beach and left them there to dry in the sun. It wasn't quite the ending I was expecting, thinking he'd place them in a vessel to keep them fresh. ? I'd be rethinking ordering fish around here. ? As the temperature rose and my stomach rumbled, I knew it was lunchtime. We headed back to the little place opposite ours. Again it did not dissapoint, golden, light, freshly made vegetable spring rolls wrapped in rice paper, lightly fried with a lemon honey sauce were divine accompanied by sweet and sour pork filled with fresh chunks of tomato, onion and pineapple. Delicious, and dishes I struggle to order in the UK, I intended getting my fill. Lunch digested, it was time once more for 'Little Miss Ants in her Pants' who just couldn't keep still to explore the rocky shoreline that we overlooked. Known locally as Klong Hin, translated means River rock. A very different coastline to the one this morning but again with incredible marine life. Here I spotted, sea cucumbers, various fish and hermit crabs. I warn you now, I love crabs. I'm practically obsessed. Obviously not with having them.? I think it stems from my Cancerian, birth sign. It was the rocks themselves that brought beauty to this shoreline and the way they'd been shaped by the wind and water. That evening, it was a lovely dinner in the aptly named 'Why Not Bar', overlooking the sea with a pineapple rice salad served in the carcasse of one. Tasty, fresh and delicious. I hadn't eaten this well in weeks. I crashed early from the busy day and all the food dreaming of the wonders I'd see when we'd visit the famous Phi Phi Islands the next day. Not realising until I booked this tour, the Phi Phi Islands are made up of two main parts, Phi Phi Leh Island the smaller southern section and Phi Phi Don, the larger northern section. With the whole area situated north west of Koh Lanta. From what I'd experienced already, I couldn't have imagined the sheer beauty that awaited me from this trip. Our first stop and Martin's favourite was Maya Beach, located on the west coast of Phi Phi Leh Island. This being the filming location of the famous Leonardo Di Caprio film, 'The Beach'. It was a truly stunning landscape, the finest white sand, the bluest of seas protected by large limestone forested cliffs that resembled arms stretched round it, leaving the smallest of openings to enter this hidden gem. It was impressive, no doubt about it, but for me it was simply ruined by all the bloody tourists, even though I was one. ? Hoards flocked to this tiny area and it felt like rush hour. It was still pretty cool to visit and inspired us to watch the film again, just so we could both say, "been there"! ? Our next stop was snorkelling at Monkey Point, located on the west coast of Phi Phi Don. An enjoyable spot with lots to see but my my highlight of the day was where we stopped for lunch, Bamboo Island located north east of Phi Phi Don. This place to me, was simply magical. It encapsulated everything, I imagined Paradise would be, stretches of glorious fine white sand, water as transparent as glass, small bays created from rock boundaries and iconic greenery stretching towards the sun and of course, very few tourists. Our lunch on this trip was also fab. Freshly prepared, curry, vegetables, fried chicken and rice with fresh fruit, taken in the shade of the forested section, before moving into the glorious sunshine and onto the powdery sand and crystal clear sea. The odd speedboat mowed up amplified its luxuriousness. I was living the life, my inner princess craved.? We had nearly two hours here before moving on to our last spot of the day, the main tourist area of Phi Phi Don. We found a great spot to take in an afternoon drink whilst staring out at this lively beach resort, both imagining how cool it would be if we were at least a decade or two younger. Martin wanting to stay and take up a booze cruise. Me knowing full well, that by 8PM, not AM, he'd be done. ? Back at Koh Lanta, I had time for a quick knap before we would make our way to 'Noon Bar' for our treat meal. Ready to go by 6pm, we grabbed a taxi given I knew the walk there, sucked. We were a little later than planned for the booking given the delay on our ride but still, a booking is a booking right? On arrival they sat us at a not so great table with a poor view. This was not going well given what I'd gone through to get a table. After a little display of dissapointment, we were moved. Then came the menu and I was very much looking forward to having the Duck a l'orange. Oh no I wasn't. It was a gluten fest. So we opted to share the Seabass. Oh no we wouldn't, they didn't have any. The options that I was left with, Thai food or salad. Neither of which I wanted. Martin, who was very good at putting up with my exacting standards agreed to leave if I wanted. ? So we did. I got to discount a further two places, before we arrived at 'Same, Same But Different' restaurant located on the beach down the hill. This looked good and it was fabulous. The name aswell making us smile as this was one of Visal's (our Tour Leader) favourite sayings on our Indochina Trip. We finally got our Seabass, salad and chips to share which was barbequed in front of us. The meat again falling away from the skeleton. It was beautifully cooked and was even better washed down with a half decent, bottle of plonk. So from a shaky start, we ended up having a fab last meal on the west coast of the island overlooking the beach as the light faded on another day, chatting and recanting the amazing places we had visited earlier. The next morning, I made the most of Klong Hin beach by parking up on a rock, dipping my feet in the cooling water before we left, having to move a few times as I realised the tide was coming in, not out! ? We were heading to the eastside of the island, Lanta Old Town for two nights. This place completely different to the beachy locale we had just left. The coast here lined with Fisherman houses on stilts. Our accommodation stunning, all wooden with lovely carvings, also on stilts. We checked in just before lunch then took a stroll to get some food. This place literally a one street wonder was quaint, laidback and similar to a town in the Wild West. We sat out over the water for lunch and I completely miss ordered. Choosing stuffed squid with a lemon sauce, I was surprised and dissapointed when it was cold, rubbery and covered in lemon juice and fresh chilli after stating, no spicy. Oh well, I'd had a pretty decent run up until now. The shame was, it looked incredible. The weather unfortunately aswell like the food, seem to change as black clouds rolled in. Loving the atmospheric conditions this brought along the bay, I grabbed my umbrella and went for a nose. The pier being the areas main feature and given historically this was the Islands main port for trade, it was no wonder the pier had significance. Close to it lay a mound of concrete struts, representing what was left of the original pier after being destroyed in the Boxing Day Tsunami of 2004. This along with numerous Tsunami Emergency Evacuation signs, leave a stark reminder to the natural dangers this beautiful place faces. As I continued to stroll along the main street, it was evident that this town had not lost its historic Chinese influence. Lanterns swung in the breeze and temple entrances were adourned with gold dragons. While it is still a fisherman village for the locals, you could clearly see that much of Koh Lanta's Old Town trade, now comes from low key tourism through outlets selling local goods. My favourite being the Hammock House. This cool, colourful place houses every type of knotted hammock under the sun. Niavely I thought there was only two types, a single or a double! ? Oh, no. Its all to do with the different knot structures applied and were they will reside. It was a fascinating funky place full of information and great to have a look round. I didn't quite muster up the courage to try one, simply because I wasn't sure which knot structure had the load bearing capacity for this arse and they all appeared to be hung a little high. ? From there I stumbled upon a hidden Art Gallery located through a Cafe. This very much unexpected, given how quiet and tucked away Koh Lanta Old Town is. Wonderfully the exhibition covered a topic very close to my heart...Food! This combined with meeting the young Artist herself who was priming, a completed piece just added to the visit. She definitely had a passion for boiled eggs and I loved the way the deep orangey yellow of the yolks drew you in from the set of ten small paintings hung together as you entered the Cafe downstairs. This was art I appreciated, just loving the subject matter. It was amazing how she'd captured the essence of each item presented. You wanted to reach out, touch them and devour it. As I reached the end of the street where the shops petered out, along the coastal edge, here the Mangrove Forest came into view. I spent sometime taking in this fascinating habitat and the wildlife it housed. The mudskippers moving effortlessly across the slippery surface along with large snails. Fish trapped in small pools of water darted energetically, eagerly waiting for the tide to return. The exposed land demonstrated how far the tide in this area receded with large fishing boats and longtails quite close to shore, now resting on the muddy land, hidden amongst trees. All this culture and nature had built up a thirst, so I headed back to enjoy a G&T. It was so peaceful sat outside elevated above the exposed foreshore with the tide out a considerable distance. This soon changed as it made its way back with the lapping and crashing of the water below. At first it felt quite frightening, simply because I wasn't used to that level of noise or turbulence but I soon became accustomed to it and it wasn't long until it receded fully again. That evening the full moon shone brightly in the sky and its reflection over the water and exposed coast highlighted its ruggedness. A good nights sleep, I rose early to watch the sun rise over Ko Por and the other small islands that faced us. At one point, you could see the moon behind closing off another night and the sun appearing in all its glory to start a new day. As sun rises go, it was a pretty spectacular one, with light pink hues reflecting on the water as this bright yellow ball appeared outlining the surrounding few clouds in gold. This in amongst the light blue sky and black contours of the land was stunning. Once the sun was in full view, a sabre like yellow beam struck the water slicing the pink hues in half. I lost myself in its beauty, sat still enjoying the start of this day unfold before me. Breakfast eaten, I explored the opposing coastline to the one I'd walked already. This were no shops just local housing interspersed with the odd guest house. The road was quiet, so much so, there was joke material aplenty as chickens strolled back and forth. ? It was a pretty coast and the surrounding palm trees danced in the breeze. The sun beat down and although the water looked tempting, you knew it wasn't safe this side. On my return, intrigued by signs to the 'Tsunami Evacuation Site' I decided to follow them which led up a slight hill and a short distance inland. I remember thinking, it still felt quite close to the threat, given it had only taken me about a ten minute walk from the waters edge. I meandered back to base enjoying the peaceful atmosphere and striking colours of my surrounds. I felt utterly relaxed and my mind empty. On return, my mind focused on my prep work for the following day as another ferry journey would ensue onto Koh Ngai. G&T premixed and decanted into unsuspecting vessels, I was good to go. Martin, now on the Chivas, decanted his into a small juice bottle with label that stated it contained vitamins (well it did know! ?), was also ready. That evening, we went for dinner at a recommended venue along the front. The wind had picked up slightly but it was still pleasant enough to eat alfresco. The food was amazing and I was starving. Both ordering our own Sea Bass this time. Mine in a chunky sweet and sour dressing with chips to share saw me right, as we took in the views out to sea. I savoured every mouthful. The fish expertly cooked, melted in the mouth. The fresh tangy crunch of the pineapple and peppers livened the dish. I knew I'd enjoyed it, having left only the skeletal remains. Next morning, I rose early and took in the beautiful sunrise one last time before grabbing breakfast and checking out. We had transport booked to take us to the pier. It seemed to be running on what I now deemed 'Island Time'. Late....in other words. Trying hard to hide my frustrations through my own lack of patience, I sat in silence rolling my eyes out loud.? I hadn't quite mustered the art of, trusting it would turn up....eventually. At least we would be picked up from the pier in Lanta Old Town by the ferry given that was another reason we'd gone to stay there or so we thought. Twenty minutes on, finally the lady turns up that we'd booked the tickets with. She had been informed that due to the wind conditions, the ferry would not pick up at Lanta Old Town so she was hot footing us back to Saladan Pier with tickets for another vessel, given we'd missed our original boat. Finally on board, we enjoyed the coastal view from the water, of the road we had just travelled along and saw how compact the Old Town looked. As Martin tucked into his "Vitamin Juice"? and me, my "Water"?, the journey of an hour and twenty minutes soon passed. The scenery stunning with carpeted leafy green islands floating in turquoise water. Our destination today, Koh Ngai. As we approached, it looked gorgeous. You could clearly see that this Island was small with all the accommodation along this stretch of sand. Given this only had a shallow foreshore we now had to disembark the ferry and jump aboard longtail boats along with our luggage. It was absolute chaos but quite amusing having been on the happy water! ? Martin had booked, AirBnB accommodation for this place and we'd decided we would give camping a go. When I say camping, I mean a nice large square tent with electric and hard standing. There's only so far this princess will go! ? Finally on dry land, we were dropped at our accommodation. This island was breathtaking. The sand powdery beneath your feet, the water translucent fanning back through the blue colour spectrum as it got deeper. I just couldn't take it all in. I sat and stared at the view whilst Martin went to check us in. Loving the view, but wanting to get shot of the cases to enjoy the beautiful water as it lapped enticingly on the beach, I suddenly realised this was taking longer than usual. Martin returned with news I wasn't quite expecting. Some little shit, had put a fake listing on AirBnB on the place we were now sat outside that existed but the owner knew nothing about. It also appeared he was fully booked. Oh bugger! So now we found ourselves in Paradise with nowhere to stay and no way of getting off the island if we needed to. No need to panic, Mr Lannon, the hero of hour jumped into action. I stayed put with the luggage whilst he walked up the beach trying to find somewhere with room. Not half an hour later he returned with a booking sorted. It was again a tent similar to the one we had intended to stay in and was located right in the front with views of the beach. Finally, checked in, we ordered a late lunch, the food fresh and flavoursome. Cocktails accompanied it as we toasted to having arrived in what felt like truly paradise. I was completely in love with this destination. In my mind it was on a par with Hong Island Bay and Bamboo Island. It's beauty, tranquilty and the fact, it still appeared to be a hidden gem, made for a winning combination in my mind and this time we were staying a few nights. After lunch, it was time to test the water. It was warm yet cooling against the searing heat. The crystal clear water highlighted my sun drenched skin and the whites of my palms. I spent the rest of the day chilled out enjoying the sun, literally to-ing and fro-ing between the beach and the sea. Wanting now to wash the salt off and freshen up, I was about to experience a very liberating shower. Obviously one thing this tent unfortunately didn't have was an ensuite. There were four toilet and shower cubicles for us to use as a site. Luckily it didn't appear there were many or any other guests for that matter. The toilet facilities were set back and housed, an unplumbed western style toilet and shower. One thing it was definitely missing, was a roof. Now whether this was an oversight, deliberate or they hadn't quite finished what they'd started was anyone's guess. As I stood exposed, under the freezing cold water, trying to wash the salt out of my hair and off my skin as quickly as possible, three thoughts sprung to mind. I hoped a plane wasn't going to pass overhead or a drone for that matter. I had white bits on this body that would literally blind them! ? I prayed that the wildlife wouldn't unburden themselves on me or my clean clothes. Also if a storm came in, and it chucked it down, you'd be soaked through taking care of business. One thing you couldn't argue about though was the view. Swaying bright green palms against a stunning light blue sky was the best ceiling I'd seen. Now clean and changed, we decided to take a stroll the length of the beach, me bringing along my water, ? Martin with his vitamin induced fruit juice. ? It was a stunning stretch of sand and the receded tide exposed interesting rocky coral patches. As the light on another day diminished the sky took on a pink hue before the wind picked up and the clouds gathered bringing a dark, atmospheric feel. The sky above now awash with darkened shades of blue and grey. I just prayed it wasn't going to rain based on my earlier thoughts.? The following morning, I woke to a brightly lit tent with sun streaming in. Another glorious start, there was no time to waste. Swimsuit on, I headed straight for the sea and wallowed in its bath like temperature, adopting a completely relaxed demeanor, weightlessly floating about. My mind, blank as I stared at the wondrous blue sky above in complete silence. This trip, was exactly what I'd needed and craved after the colourful chaos of India. I was surrounded by natures beauty and could lose myself in a heartbeat. It was definitely helping me learn how to relax and I think finally, I was ready to embrace it. I did very little all day except bounce between crisping up and cooling off. Martin who already had this relaxing malarky sorted, was a great mentor and aid in demonstrating how easy he found doing nothing.? I wasn't sure though, if that was just, men in general. ? Not use to sitting still, it had taken me a little longer to get there but felt improvements had been made. Mid afternoon, the dreaded wind picked up and the clouds rolled in as it had done the previous day. It didn't come to anything luckily, although the temperature appeared, alot cooler. Taking a cold shower like this, sucked, but at least I was salt free and clean once more. That evening, we strolled up the length of the beach in the opposite direction looking for a restaurant to grab dinner in. Most of them exposed to the elements and given we both felt the cold, we needed one that was sheltered. The restaurant we found, was busy and had chicken kebabs and fresh prawns on offer to be barbequed. Those ordered with chips to share, we left well fed. The moon shone brightly that evening on the water as we hurried back, illuminations from each little resort aiding our journey. It was hard to imagine leaving this place but Koh Mook beckoned the following morning. This time we'd booked a private transfer using a longtail boat after the debacle of the ferry journey to get us here. We decided we were worth it and it would only take around 30 minutes. Up before the sun, I walked the beach. With the tide out, I took in the exposed coral reef and rock pools. The coral sculptures, resembled nothing I'd seen before and the varied shapes and colours of this normally hidden world was completely on display to admire. The myriad of marine life was simply fascinating and provided a window into another world. The whole area stunning in the low level lighting became transformed, when draped in pink, orange and yellow tones as the sun slowly appeared between two Islands in the distance. This place was certainly my favourite so far out of my Thai destinations. Even residing in a tent hadn't put a blot on my stay here or the roofless toilet.? I absolutely loved it and would certainly return one day. I savoured my last few hours, and enjoyed a hearty breakfast whilst taking in my favourite view. We were due to leave at midday but with the return of some threatening looking clouds and wind, we were summoned to leave sooner. I'm pleased to say, this little lady was ready to rock and roll unlike, Mr L who was now hurriedly packing. Finally on board, our captain a young guy with little english but a great sense of humour got us to sit right inside the vessel. Martin tucked to the side, me in the middle, I felt completely stitched up when I got repeatedly soaked as we made our way and the waves piled in. Martin and the driver also making plans to drop me at another island, both finding this plan a total hoot. I'm glad one of us was enjoying this. So much for living the dream with a private transfer. As we got closer to Koh Mook, the wind dropped, the sun shone and our smiles widened as we clapped eyes on a golden stretch of sand known as Charlie beach. Given our accommodation issue, when we arrived in Koh Ngai, we had booked our first night in Koh Mook, through the same guy who had sorted out our private transfer. Tonight we'd stay at the Mookrubber Tree complex in a chalet style lodge. Not up to our usual standard but felt it would do for one night, I went on the search for accommodation we could move onto the following day. Koh Mook being a relatively small place, I walked to the other side of the Island in about half an hour. It was certainly nowhere near the picturesque places we'd been use to. The opposite side, housed Koh Mook Pier, which we would both need in a few days time when we'd say farewell and continue our separate journeys. Making my way back, I grabbed a taxi and updated Mr L on our choices of which we both agreed we'd give Coco Lodge a go. That sorted, we'd booked a trip that afternoon to visit 'Thom Marakot' the 'Emerald Cave', located just up the coast from Charlie Beach. The cave used historically by pirates to hide their loot and by locals to gather swallow nests was a cool hidden wonder to feast your eyes on. The entrance well hidden and only accessible at low tide. We put our life jackets on, and followed our guide through the 60m long narrow cave. On entry, it was obvious how this place had got its name as the water glowed green when the light struck it. As we continued through, darkness ensued. It was slightly unnerving being in the sea in the pitch black with only sound from others providing a guide as to which direction to progress. On exit, we entered into a hidden lagoon. A small forested sandy shoreline faced us as we got out of the water and took in our surroundings. High limestone cliffs covered in plant life created this tropical oasis. The sun illuminated leaves giving them a golden glow compared to those in the shade that remained a striking green. This was one of the main draws for us to visit Koh Mook and it had not dissapointed. Returning to Charlie Beach, we grabbed a couple of deckchairs and sat quietly watching the sunset. In the distance we could see Koh Ngai, where we had left that morning. This whole cove area, was simply stunning. A few wispy white clouds hung in the sky as the sun descended over the water. Yachts bobbed in the gentle surf as the fading light illuminated the sky in fiery colours, creating silhouettes of these magnificent vessels. It was quite simply a picture postcard view. Back at base, we enjoyed a few cheeky drinks sat outside our chalet. My stomach rumbling away, I decided to grab some dinner. I made my way to a cliff side restaurant overlooking Charlie Beach. The view lovely across the water and the bay. I ordered my favourite, sweet and sour pork with rice dish and a large G&T to wash it down. It was divine and I devoured every ounce. After dinner, I found I wasn't quite ready to call it a night so found myself in a little bar on the beach ordering another favourite, a Mai Tai cocktail. It was really good and quite strong, which hit me as I walked back, zig zagging all the way. ? At least being pleasantly plastered I knew I'd have a great nights sleep, completely oblivious to my not so luxurious surroundings. Like a true professional, I was raring to go the following morning and it was back to Charlie Beach. It was early when we arrived with hardly a soul about. Martin adopted his usual tanning pose and me, cracked on with exploring the area. Today though, I was blown away with what I got to see. I had meandered towards the rocks located just beneath the restaurant, I'd had my evening meal in the night before. The water was like a mill pond. I'd taken my camera with me not intending to go in the sea, but wanting a nice photo looking back at the beach, I entered the water carefully as I needed a better angle. I slowly edged my way around the rocks going further and further out when suddenly something caught my eye. Keeping very still, I stopped and starred in that direction. Then it came into focus. Incredibly I was witnessing a sea otter tucking into a breakfast of sea urchins. Nothing really can describe how wondrous this moment was. It will be one, I will never forget. I managed to capture a video of him, happily munching away, completely oblivious to me watching his every move. It was like being in a David Attenborough wildlife programme. I was that close I could hear him clearly crunching through spines and shell. Once he'd devoured one, he'd dissappear for a minute then reappear with his next course. I watched his every move until he swam off. I was completely blown away with what I'd just witnessed and this was certainly a highlight from all the travelling I'd done. Later that morning, we relocated our luggage to Coco Lodge. Tonight we'd stay in a bamboo shack. Slightly better than what we'd just left, we were chalking this upto experience. There wasn't much going, for this side of the island so grabbed a taxi and returned to Charlie Beach to spend our last day in its beauty. That night we grabbed dinner at a local restaurant sharing a Seabass meal with salad, jacket potato and rice washed down with a couple of glasses of white wine. The food was ok, but the company fantastic, when a rather unexpected dinner guest turned up. This in the form of a huge hermit crab, easily the size of my fist. Mr L, hadn't been too bad company either! ? In the morning, we'd say our farewells and continue on with our separate travels. It was really strange, how you meet people throughout your life and how they become part of it. From complete strangers to being the best of friends who can travel together and survive ? was surreal as we realised, three months previous to this, we didn't know one another existed. I felt I'd known Martin for years and it had been an absolute pleasure exploring the Thai Islands with him over the last thirteen days. I was sure we'd catch up again but for now, we had different agendas we needed to follow. Martin in the infancy of his travel and me deciding...what and where next?


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