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Published: January 31st 2017
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It's a broken record but transport from Phuket to Krabi Town was nothing special (other than my aching head and the thoughts that I am to old for this). It consisted of a three hour minibus full of foreigners that cost $400b. Once at the pier in Krabi I jumped into a taxi boat that was included in my original ticket and was whisked away 20 minutes to Railay Bay home to limestone karsts reaching as high into the sky as far as they are melting to the ground. This is ground zero for world rock climbing enthusiasts. My jaw dropped and my head cleared at the first sight of the otherworldly beauty that was before me.
There is no vehicle access here in Railay so I set out walking. I planned to stay in Ton Sai village in the far western cove of the peninsula. I looked at the local map and set out for what should have been a 20 minute walk. Unfortunately I did not account for the tide. My route was shut off by the ocean so I had to backtrack 20 minutes and then hike an additional hour over a mountain to get to my
destination. No small feat in flip flops with my bags (small as they are) in 35c heat. Exhausted and soaking I found one of the last bamboo huts in the village for $400b. I was happy to have it even though it was of questionable value.
After dropping my bags and drinking back the 2L of water I had lost I set out about the beach village of Ton Sai. Their is a real hippie/rasta vibe about this place. Reggae pumps out of the beachside bars and white dreadlocked men and women in baggy "Thai" pants practice yoga on the beach. These "lost souls" as I like to call them look down upon me like I am some sort of rich trust fund baby (little do they know). They are everywhere in Thailand. Europeans that have come here on holiday and have never left. Ya sorry, I am not that cool. Spare me your dirty looks. Just because I did not go on summer tour with $200USD in my pocket and four dogs to feed, I guess I'm the loser. I digress. Most people are friendly enough, but you know the type I speak of.
The real draw
climbing
That's me at the top making my way up. here are the limestone karsts. I booked a half day rock climbing course ($800b) which would include basic instruction and all equipment necessary to try my hands and feet at scaling these massive walls. Up early the next morning I set out with my guide and two Swedes to Railay East; where we were to climb. As we walked at low tide around the coves we scaled many 8' rocks with the surf crashing just below. I made a stupid comment that if you cannot do this then you should just turn around and go back to your bungalow. Just as I finished my sentence I lost my footing and fell about 6' and crashed on the rocks below. Man am I an idiot. I surveyed the damage and I had sliced my foot, my hand, and both of my knees were banged, bruised, and bloodied. Flip flops are not the best for climbing rocks on the shore ( I did have proper shoes for the climbs). This could have been so much worse and I am still not sure how I avoided serious injury. Had I fallen a different way or hit my head I would certainly be in
monkey
This little fellow greeted me on the way back to my bungalow. the hospital right now. I am very fortunate. Personal injury aside I looked into my bag and realized I had managed to crack the frame of my beloved Dragon sunglasses. Worse yet the LCD view screen on my Lumix camera is now shattered.
I licked my wounds and soldiered on. The four of us did go climbing for the day and I was even able to scale a few 30m walls. I've never climbed like this before and it was intense. My arms and legs were pushed to their limit. I did however make it to every top rope for the view below. To be honest though I could never shake the fear and I was uncomfortable most of the time. Especially when rappelling back down the cliff face. I am happy I pushed on and made the climbs, but I do not think this sport is for me.
My camera still takes photos, but with the LCD screen now shattered I really have no idea of my framing and what it is that I am shooting whilst taking a photo. Until I get to Bangkok to hopefully replace the screen or worse, buy a new camera this
means a few things. The good news is that thier will probably be no more photos with me in them. The bad news is my landscape shots may be askew and will now go from not very good to horrible. Good times.
Railay was a really nice spot. The natural beauty was something I could never tire of filling my eyes with its magic. Even amongst the mainstream crowds and the judgmental eyes of the few I was happy here. After a couple of days it is now time to continue north.
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