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Published: January 15th 2007
Leaving Koh Samui left me with only relief and none of the slight sadness that almost every other of our previous 26 destinations has left me with. Of course Jungle Club will be a standout of our whole trip, but the island itself is best left for those who think Thailand is all about beer, beaches, bartering and boys (who want to be girls) - and having spent nearly 3 months in this crazy country, I can assure you it has a lot more to offer than that.
We are nearing the end of the Asian leg of the trip now and when we planned our assault on the Thai islands we purposefully left what we hoped would be the best until last; and so island number 6 and our last stop before returning to catch our Bangkok flight to Oz was Koh Tao.
Arrival via boat under a scorching sun to be greeted by see through waters, huge boulders and very little visible development meant we weren't dissappointed. Koh Tao was one of the last Thai islands to be 'discovered' and only dates back to the early 90's as a recognised 'stop off' on the travelling map.
Next stop......
we start planning our next stage of the trip by first deciding which direction Australia is.Being 'discovered' means plenty of pick up trucks and touts await us and we drive past the inevitable 7-11 and a few themed bars before opting not to stay on the main beach and head for the quieter Ao Chalon Ban Kao at the Southern tip which is as far as the only driveable road on the islands goes.
Koh Tao's discovery remains only by those who have made an effort to get here, so this is the first of the islands on Thailand's East Coast to not cater for package tourists which thankfully brings the prices back down, giving us a bungalow by the beach for a fiver. It's one of those generic solid concrete constructions that, after a week in the open and at one with nature of Jungle Club, we are quite happy to book a week up front at. Although it lacks the character of some of the places we have stayed it at least keeps the geckos, frogs and palm rats out.
The sunset from the beach is amazing, the sky remains bright blue even as the sun dissappears and high thin clouds turn bright red like huge brushstrokes (I know it's a
Trapped
Not a bad place to get your boat stranded by the tide bit of a gay description but hopefully the photos help). The whole island has that sort of bare foot travellers chic feel to it with lots of young healthy Europeans with good tans and nice teeth here to dive during the day and hang out at the chilled beach bars at night. Like all of the other islands we have visited it's no true reflection of Thailand but it feels the most untouched with all the palm trees, dusty roads and huge random boulders giving it a real 'Flinstones' feel.
We spend the first few days doing very little and just slowing down to the pace of the place. I haven't had a haircut or a shave for ages so find a barbers that is willing to give me a number 1 all over (head and face), we hunt down some decent restaurants, coffee and book shops and do some research on dive schools. The most excitement we have is when one of the many healthy Europeans mistakes my Havaianas for his 50p flip flops, for the second time in two days (only this time he doesn't return) and we spend the next day hanging around the main beach
Dom Massage
I realise that Dom looks naked except for a handkerchief sized towel, but he was actually wearing disturbingly small (and tight) purple pants hoping to bump into him. When we finally do I confront him in an ethnic clothing shop and his embarrassment leads to him handing them straight back (me and my Havaianas have been through a lot I tell him).
Our plans for diving are slightly disrupted when 'Sicknote' gets another bout of Sinusitis/Man Flu and after a divemaster explaining something about 'equalising??' I have to spend a couple of days on bright pink tablets before spending 3 quid to see the dive schools doctor who bangs me on the knee with a hammer, taps me on the forehead 3 times and then gives me the all clear to start our PADI Open Water course the following day.
Scooby Don't
I was hoping to write about amazing underwater adventures and close encounters with Whale sharks etc....but not all on our trip goes to plan and after Carla's excitement at getting back into the classroom and doing some hardcore LEARNING she has to bow out after the first underwater session as the mask removal keeps shooting water up her nose and our firm but fair instructor Camilo advises her it's best she calls it a day.
I decide
Breath taking
Sun sets over Turtle Island to carry on and am amazed that after 30 years of leaking masks and treading water I find that you can completely remove, replace and empty a mask of all water whilst 10 metres below the surface.
The following day we head out into the Open Water for a 9 metre dive. My new dive buddy is Dan from San Francisco and as my seasickness kicks in we have to cancel our last minute safety check as I about to puke and need to get into the water jumping in so quickly I nearly land on the waiting Camilo. The bad weather the island had before Christmas meant that the visibility was poor and whilst me and San Fran Dan struggle to stay close to Camilo an Australian guy keeps dissappearing because his bad breathing is sending him upwards leaving the rest of us on the bottom trying to find him. It's definitely an experience, but the 24 hour headache I get because of my blocked sinuses means I also bow out of any more dives and just complete the written exam (88% pass with no revision) so I can finish the course in Australia, if the conditions are
Cheesy walking hand in hand into the Sun Set photo
Notice Carlas stern posture in reaction to another one of Matts stupid photo ideas better (and the Man Flu stays away).
We get good news the following day when we get hold of our mate Dom and arrange to meet him on the island. Before he arrives we get a local guide book and head out on a three hour trek along the coast taking in some beaches and coves. It's hard going terrain with no pathway but worth it just to see how so much of this small island remains completely untouched.
Dom arrives just after breakfast the next day and we spend most of it on one of the secret beaches we discovered on our trek, sunbathing (or burning in Dom's case) and climbing up huge boulders. We meet up with San Fran Dan and have a boozy lunch discussing Dom's favourite topic of flags (or vexiology as it's called) and Gentle Ben (a kids TV show, like Lassie but with a bear) before hitting a beach party that night and drinking too many 'Oi Tropicanas' (Whiskey and Lemon) and sharing a bucket (see picture).
Next days hangovers mean very little is done except going for a walk so Dom can buy a man-bag and planning our final night
Wheres the path gone?
Our trek round the island got hard going at some points. Nice view though on the island. We head for the busier Sairee beach and after a Mexican meal, the promise of live music and Chang Beer on draft leads us to Choppers Bar and a guy who looks like the bloke out of Bodger and Badger (kids TV show - more recent than Gentle Ben) takes requests from the crowd.
Me and Dom throw 'Tangled up in blue', 'In my life' and 'Walk the line' at him without any problems, unfortunately his repertoire is so large that even knows Dom's favourite Fleetwood Mac song (Landslide???). But the most roaring rendition of the night had to be '500 miles' by the Proclaimers with the whole place on their feet pretending to be Scottish.
Me and Carla call it a night about 1 ish leaving Dom to go and play Connect 4 with some Lady Boys (seriously) and wake up late the on our final day before heading to the pier and saying our goodbyes as we grab a catamaran heading North and Dom heads for Koh Phangan. We leave Koh Tao with huge smiles happy that after 8 weeks of island hopping we had saved the best until last.
Back to Reality
Its that fine rain that soaks you through
getting a lift in the back of a pick up truck isnt quite as enjoyable when it throws it down As I write we are (finally) on our sleeper train bound for Bangkok. After being dumped in a sleepy town called Chumphon by our Catarmaran company the tourist comforts quickly faded - although it was good to have a walk around a real Thai community with bustling local market where everybody stares as you walk past (unsure if you would be even remotely interested in what they sell).
After a 2 hour wait we were stuck into a pick up truck and dumped (again) at a dark and quiet Chumphon train station where a young Thai named An serenaded me on my own guitar whilst Carla searched for anything resembling a toilet.
A train arrived with no carriage numbers on meaning we had to struggle through 3 jam packed carriages fully laden before finding our 2 beds and sat down to catch our breaths before watching 4 cockroaches run out from where we are meant to be sleeping. Needless to say we have just ordered 2 Large Singhas to calm our nerves and help us sleep between now (7.45pm) and 5am when we reach Bangkok.
After an 8 week tropical beach adventure full of tourist comforts, it sort of
All Bar One - Koh Tao
Childs sand bucket + Whiskey + RedBull = full day hangover. L-R Dom, Carla, Matt feels good to get back into the swing of the country - warts and all - a reminder of why we came to S.E Asia in the first place, to experience as much as possible - the good, bad and ugly.
And as the S.E. Asian adventure draws to a close and Australia beckons we both feel lucky to have seen so many things, gained so many memories and met so many wonderful people along the way. And one thing is for certain..... we would reccomend it to anybody.
Peace
M&C
ps- a monk has just lay down to sleep in the trains corridor, blocking my path to the toilet....and i have just finished my large bottle of Singha
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winn et mozza
non-member comment
Tye Tye Thailand!!
Well great to hear from you and to see you are looking soooo well, very envious of the tans!!!the photos and blog keep getting better, good to see Dom did he drum up any gigs?? The experience will stay with you forever, and what fun and buckets you will have re-telling them to you mates!!!!Dads a bit woried about your new found love of whisky (its bad enough sharing with Zo et JC and JP!! but of course already buying the bottles for your return!!!Steve and Emma now have your blog (they mailed and asked us for the address) last week, their baby is due in 6 weeks will keep you informed. also Stehane and Sylvia Charlotte Victor and Felix wanted your blog, and are thrilled to see it ( It is good for Victor to practice his English!!) they all send their love asdoes it seems the whole of the Vendee!!! carry on enjoying the sun sea and sand andremember wants and needs... can't wait to see you in NZ not long now, enjoy Oz we are expecting a different blog it will be interesting to see. Take care our intrepid travellers, love always, winn et mozzaxxxxx