Return to Thailand

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Well here I am, back in Thailand, where I started my trip 5 1/2 weeks ago. I was wondering whether I would like it here as much as I did 4 years ago, when I was here for a couple of months, or whether now that I have been to some much quieter places in Asia, I'd find it too busy and touristy.

I needn't have worried though - it's still a great place, even if everyone else thinks so too and you have to share it with half the world. The other places I've visited in SE Asia were beautiful too, but when it comes to beaches and islands, Thailand wins hands down.

I arrived in Bangkok on Friday and headed straight for the infamous Kho San Road. A lot of people hate Bangkok and the Kho San Road, but I had some good times there so I felt quite nostalgic to be back. I visited some of my old haunts, like the petrol station that turns into a cocktail bar at night, and went to see the place I had my tattoo done to see if it was still standing - it was.

After some shopping at the markets, we stopped for a well-deserved (in my opinion anyway) beer and despite having a whole list of different beers on the menu I was told 'no alcohol.' Eh?? When I asked her incredulously 'why not??' she pointed to a sign on the wall that said 'No alcohol during election period.' What nonsense was this? A swift internet search revealed that it was illegal to sell alcohol during the next two weekends because of the election - the ban had started from 6pm that Friday (we'd arrived at 5pm) and would last till Monday and then the following weekend there would be no alcohol on 22nd and 23rd Dec - the two nights leading up to the Full Moon Party!

What a crazy, crazy land.

Luckily the first beach I went to, Ton Sai, seemed to have little regard for this law and beer was sold freely - phew. I just hope it'll be the same on Ko Pha Ngan otherwise they might have a full-scale riot on their hands, seeing as around 12,000 are expected to attend the Full Moon Party and most arrive a few days beforehand for the build-up.

After much sunbathing and snorkelling at Ton Sai, which was stunning, I headed over to a lesser known island called Ko Jam. I'd heard it was really quiet there and I fancied a night or two away from the masses - and discovered it was definitely the place to go. I got a cute little bungalow for a 1/3 of the price I'd paid on Ton Sai and there really was hardly anyone on the island at all. I pretty much had the beach to myself and all I could hear were the waves crashing against the shore and palm trees swaying in the wind. Not the place to go to party, but perfect if you just want to chill and get away from it all.

I am now on Ko Lanta, which is also pretty quiet, but there are lots of beach bars so it's much livelier than Ko Jam. The place I'm staying at seems to be staffed soley by ladyboys. I'm not quite sure what the deal is - they have boobs (not sure if they're implants or chicken fillets stuffed in their bras), wear tight tops and tiny hotpants and could almost pass for women, but their big hands and feet give them away. Plus their voices which, unsurprisingly, sound like blokes trying to sound like girls (in a 'I'm a laaady' fashion). I'm quite curious about them and wish I had the guts to ask 'so what made you decide to become a woman?' but I don't think that would go down well as I think they think they do a good job of fooling everyone.

Yesterday I felt I deserved some pampering (I'm so self-indulgent) so went for a Thai massage on the beach. I'd never had one before - I've had plenty of massages in Thailand but always wimp out and go for the 'Swedish' or 'oil' massage rather than the Thai one as I'm a believer that a massage should leave you feeling relaxed, not doubled up in pain. On this occasion though, I thought that it really was about time I tried one, even if I did meet a girl a few weeks ago who couldn't walk for 2 days after hers.

Fortunately this masseuse seemed to know what she was doing and although at times it seemed like it was going to hurt, it was actually fine. It also confirmed that my foot is finally healed 3 months after I broke it. She started jabbing away at my poor fragile metatarsal and I prepared to let out a feeble whimper but it didn't hurt at all. Unlike when I had a foot massage in Laos where I did actually have to cry out a couple of times - especially when brandished some evil metallic instrument and started running it up and down the damaged bone - yeouch. I followed the massage by a pedicure, my second in a week. My feet have never had it so good.

Claire gets here tomorrow, which is good news as I made the mistake of booking my accommodation ahead, as I was worried I might not be able to find anything with it being peak season, and seem to be staying on the 'family and couples' part of the island. Lovely beach but barely a backpacker in sight, so I feel like a right billy-no-mates. It's her birthday tomorrow so looking forward to hitting the beach bars and sinking some cocktails. Then the following day we will hopefully (if not too hungover) hire some motorbikes and explore the island. It's OK for her - she's got Dan to drive - but I'll have to drive myself and I've never driven a motorbike before in my life. Fingers crossed that by the time you next hear from me I won't be head-to-toe in bandages.

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