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Published: February 5th 2020
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My host family cleaning fish. Shan (the girl) and Nit.So having stayed here for 2 nights so that I could visit the sea gypsy village to the south of the town, it didn’t work out like that, the reason being that instead of being just after the pier as I had imagined it was an hours’ walk, so that was the end of that! I was awake at 3.30 am thanks to the cockerels. When I counted them later there are at least 14 living opposite amongst the abandoned car parts, bikes and other rubbish. That’s about 14 too many, IMHO.
When I left this morning the family were working on their fish catch, descaling and gutting. The scales on the white snapper were huge, the size of 10p pieces, and they were pushing them down a hole in the concrete, presumably (hopefully) for the tide to wash then away. Minimal English but we did our best and I found out that most of their catch goes to hotels. Other people were coming up on scooters and buying small amounts. No rush for breakfast as I thought most places would open around 9. In fact the place I found, Grandma’s Kitchen, opens at 7.30. It is on the non
sea side of the main road, about halfway down. It’s run by a lovely couple and the food is reasonably priced and absolutely great. Two Swiss girls said that they’d eaten there for 4 days in a row, including last night. Every evening there is a surprise dinner, 3 courses and you have to say a day in advance if you have any special diet needs, if you like it spicy etc. Then they come up with things for you and you pay what you think the meal was worth at the end. Drinks are included. I read on Tripadvisor that one family were so delighted they paid 1000B a head, 5 times what I’d normally spend. The girls had paid 500B. It seemed like a fun thing to do and as I eat anything I thought they might let me book on the day, but tonight they are full. They usually take 8 people but ton they have a family booking of 10 so I was out of luck. Good news, they open at 7.30 for breakfast so I’ll be able to trot down before my 9.30 pick up tomorrow. It is plastic free, they even have metal drinking
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Charming table decs in Grandma’s Kitchen straws.
I set off in the direction of where I thought the sea gypsy village was, and heard an American voice outside a hostel/hotel and it was the friend of Susan, who I met yesterday outside the atm. We said hello, Amy went off on her scooter to explore and Susan showed me round her accommodation. There are dorms for 8 people (mixed, but no guys in there at the moment), lovely clean bathrooms, an open kitchen, a lounge with books, it was very nice for 300B a night and 1200B for private rooms. It‘s called Lanta Harbour and is on the road south of the pier. It has a boutique feel to it. Susan and I walked further on to the ice cream place run by a French/Italian guy. He was a bit odd, but his place is cool and funky, with lovely views of the sea and comfy seats. We sat for a long time and chatted. Then walked back with plans to meet for dinner tonight. All work on fish was finished but the family were still selling and had a big plastic bowl full of live crabs with elastic bands round their claws. I walked to
the end of the road, more very poor fishing families in rickety houses. People try to chat when I say hello. Where stay? Where come from? I like it.
I walked back into town for an early dinner at Shine Talay, overlooking the sea and then up to 7-11 to a very local street food place which did ice cream. A really nice evening.
On to Ko Mook on the fast ferry tomorrow and my lift will be waiting for me. Fingers crossed......
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