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Published: June 30th 2006
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Sunny day in Khao Lak
I do like reclining by a pool, drink in hand... Howayiz. Only 2 weeks in Khao Lak and already it’s starting to feel like home. It’s so nice simply to have somewhere to unpack your bag - I’m realising how I really am getting too old and accustomed to my creature comforts for hardcore haven’t-washed-in-a-week backpacking. But it’s more than that. Khao Lak, and the whole of Thailand so far, exhibits a warmth and openness which make you feel immediately that you’re amongst friends. Despite the language barrier, the Thais have a great sense of humour, and even in places which have experienced immense tragedy, you are surrounded by smiles and a sense of laidback optimism.
On my first day of work, we were taken on an orientation trip round the various project sites in which the Tsunami Volunteer Center is involved. Visiting one village about 20 minutes from our home, we passed two boats which had been swept more than a kilometre inland by the tsunami, bringing with them massive damage and loss of life. The boats are still sitting untouched in the middle of the village where the wave left them, one propping up an otherwise-collapsed house - they make a chilling memorial. One of my group commented
Rainy day in Khao Lak
...except on days like this. that if something like that happened in her town in the US, someone would have gone out in the night and, whether compelled by grief and rage or by a desire to spare the village from this painful spectre, would have smashed the boats to pieces and gotten rid of them. Our Thai guide replied that, while she could understand this reaction, Thai people just aren’t like that. They mourn the dead for 100 days and after that they move on. But even during their mourning, they are rarely angry. As Buddhists, they know that those who died have gone on to new, better lives. Everything happens for a reason and, in time, the kharmic balance will be restored.
I think this is one of the reasons Thailand seems to have recovered so well from the tsunami. The Thais positive outlook is so strong, you can not help but be embraced by it, and it makes this a lovely place in which to travel, live and work. I spend one day per week out on a building site, helping construct a small housing estate for locals whose rented homes weren’t covered by the government’s reconstruction funding. I would have
Fishing Boats in Phi Phi
You can still see bits of tsunami damage, such as the debris on the beach which used to be a promenade... expected bitterness, resentment, among these people who, 18 months later, are still living in makeshift tin huts. But instead, these are hardworking and laughing people, finding joy in the opportunities afforded to help design and construct their new homes. One guy has chosen to build himself a bar in his new living room. “Whiskey!” he shouts, with a massive smile on his face. I suspect he and Dave will become close friends. (BTW, a few of you have asked who Dave is - he is my lovely boyfriend and partner in madness, renowned for his warmth of spirit, breadth of lexicon and penchant for pint bottles. You can read his blog
here).
Back in Central Khao Lak, where I spend my office days, reconstruction work is more or less complete. A number of luxury developments right on the seafront are still receiving finishing touches, but the main street is lined with newly restored and rebuilt bars, restaurants and dive shops. The problem is, they’re all closed, because no one’s here. Khao Lak used to be a popular destination with Asian and Scandinavian tourists. The local industry has more or less written off hope of the Asians -many of whom
Hotel in Phi Phi
...and the roof of this hotel, which is (perhaps surprisingly) back open for business have a strong cultural belief in ghost - ever returning. It’s the Europeans and others who now hold the power to save Khao Lak. The Thais may have been able to move on from the damage the wave brought, but the damage to their primary source of income - tourism - still hurts every day. In fairness, it is the off season at the moment, as evidenced by the way it’s been pissing down for the last couple of days. But the sun’s due to come out for good by September-ish, so even if I can’t convince any of you to come volunteering for a bit, maybe you’ll consider a bit of winter sun in Thailand? You can join my old mission, Pampering for Prosperity (TM).
With that mission in mind, Dave and I took a weekend break to Kho Phi Phi, the incredibly beautiful twin islands where The Beach was filmed. Phi Phi was hit pretty hard by the tsunami too, but is now very much back on its feet, needing tourists to eat in its restaurants, drink in its bars, shop in its stalls - who were we to refuse? Phi Phi is a really fun place
Also whilst in Phi Phi...
...I tamed the world's smallest panther with too much to do in a short weekend, but we did our best to indulge in as many ways as we possibly could (read: ate fillet mignon, drank whiskey and red bull from buckets, commenced the purchase of a second new wardrobe) and pledged to come back soon, safe in the knowledge our excesses were to the benefit of all except our waistlines, livers and wallets.
Tomorrow we’re off to Cambodia for a visa run with a bit more interest to it than border towns and surly patrol guards (we hope). Hope you’re all safe and healthy and life is treating you well, wherever you are. And come to Thailand, it’s good here.
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Rhea
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Another great update Clare - keep them coming! (love the cutie kittens!!!!)