Tut tut, it looks like rain

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I was feeling a bit ropey this morning. The combination of a swollen foot and a chesty cough from sleeping in air conditioned rooms had left me feeling rather crap, even after the most comfortable nights sleep I'd had in ages.  I decided there was nothing for it but to have a workout on the TRX to lift my spirits and get my body going. On my trip to the seven eleven last night I'd bought some vitamin enriched juice drinks that I gulped down as I sweated in my room. I needed to organise my travel to Bangkok today so as I wondered down the road to the beach I stopped at a travel agents. I has wanted to go on the sleeper train but as that was full I opted for the overnight coach. I was tentative after my minibus experience yesterday but I needed to get through Thailand before my visa expired. With my trip booked I continued to the beach in the rising heat stopping only to grab a coffee and breakfast at the Earth Cafe. It was the best cup of coffee I'd tasted in as far as I could remember, mainly because it was organic.

When I arrived at the beach, as Charlie had promised, there were loads of long boats all touting for business carrying passengers to the islands and beaches near Ao Nang. As all of the prices were much of a muchness I handed across my 160B (£3.10) for the return trip to Railey beach. We had to wait until there were ten people for the boat to leave which with the throngs of people flooding to the waterfront didn't take long. We sped of it the longboat around the headland to Railey beach. The water was calm and the view was spectacular, looking out at the limestone cliffs draped in greenery and the lone outcrops in the middle of the sea were beautiful - just what I'd expected Thailand to look like.

We got to Railey beach about fifteen minutes later. A couple of friends had told me how beautiful it was there and I couldn't disagree although the beach was packed with tourists. The beach was long and narrow as the tide was high but the part that was visible was covered in pristine white sand. I decided that as it the day was reaching it's hottest point I'd take shelter and have a drink and maybe some lunch rather than risk burning again. Many people had come to Railey to rock-climb and kayak as well as sunbathe and they had all had the same idea as me because the restaurant soon filled up.

After an hour I felt brave enough to lay on the beach, douse myself in suncream and not burn. It stayed hot all afternoon as I lay on the beach drifting in and out of sleep. As mid afternoon approached the sun began to disappear behind a large grey cloud, and no sooner had I looked up I began to feel small drops of rain hit me. From the look of the cloud and the mass exodus of the beach I could tell it was time to leave so I collected my things together and headed towards the long boats. As we piled onto the loaf boat the wind had begun to pick up as well. We were steered away from the Railey and back towards the drop off point at Ao Nang. As we progressed the sea got choppier and the rake thin Thai lad piloting the open motored boat began to struggle with the waves. He was fighting to steer us straight as the water buffeted it's way over the sides into the boat.

I was a little damp as we reached the shore but this was nothing compared to what was to come. As I wondered back to Baan Taveesri past all of the little stalls and knock off shops the rain became harder. Suddenly the heavens opened and the torrential downpour began. The rain hit the tins roofs like bullets making them resonate through the thunder overhead. The streets were filled with torrents of water running in the gutter the further I walked. I was already wet from the boat ride so it seemed pointless to take shelter. It was just like a rain shower back home, people with umbrellas fighting their way through people running for cover and the streets were almost empty apart from one lone English nutter who threw a sarong over his shoulders and trudged back through the downpour.

By the time I arrived back at Baan Taveesri I was soaked to the skin. I literally had to peel the clothes from my body, carefully empty the pockets of my shorts and sling the whole lot into the shower to wash. I brought in the washing from the balcony that I had done this morning which was now damp again. I tried to find space to hang it all up to dry and just about managed it. I spent the next couple of hours watching a movie and trying to dry out. Charlie had said the day before that the weather had been very changeable and it had made the season quieter than normal, but I didn't realise he meant this changeable.

After I had dried out I ventured out, umbrella in hand, to get some dinner. The rain had taken the edge off of the heat and the evening air was cool and pleasant. I walked towards the beach as I was ravenous and a meek local dish just wouldn't cut it tonight. I finally stumbled upon an all-you-could-eat Thai BBQ and grill. I got chatting to a guy who was just leaving as I looked through their menu and he mentioned that the buffet included ice-cream...I was sold! I sat down to a feast of fresh salad, a choice of grilled meats and a selection of traditional Thai dishes. After two-and-a-half plates of food I decided it was time to take a break before moving to desert. I sat and wrote my blog from the day before. Once finished it was time to attack the desert cart. There wasn't as much selection as there had been for the main course - a few finger size bits of sponge cake, fresh fruit but more importantly ice-cream! I had four scoops of ice-cream and a few bits of the chocolate marbled sponge and I was done.

I meandered back up to the hostel in the cool night air. The rain had taken the edge off of the heat but my feet still squelched my sodden flip-flops. I relaxed on my bed and watched another DVD feeling thoroughly relaxed from my day and a bit in Ao Nang. A little sad to have to leave the laid-back atmosphere of this small beach resort I fell asleep.

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