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Published: March 24th 2008
Day 10 to 16 (17th to 23rd March)
So I have made it up in to the mountains (and mostly back down again) of North Eastern Thailand and apart from one unforgivable climb it has been great fun. Have been in some real backwater places and have had to plan my water and rest stops a bit better - coke selling stalls are no longer spaced within view of each other. I have also now frequented most forms of public transport (including being mounted on the back of motorbike for a hospital trip - no need to panic mum, just read on!) and can report that the bicycle is by far the best!
Day 10 did not see any improvement in the state of my summer cold, so rather than twiddle my thumbs in Nakon Sawan, I headed to the bus station to fast forward 150km or so to Sukhothai. As with the train there were unfamiliar with putting my bike on board, but at least here I was not charged 10 times my personal fair for the bike, An arbitrary 100Baht (3 dollars, 150pence) was selected instead. Getting the bike aboard the full bus was the challenge this
time but eventually a space the exact size was fashioned.
Sukhothai was the first capital of Thailand in around 1300AD and a regular on the tourist route. I spent the following day cycling around the now ruined temples in spacious grounds. The old city is a world heritage site and a ‘new’ Sukhothai is located 15km away to accommodate most of the tourists. Being back in lonely Planet territory I checked out a place recommended for its burgers (OK, so I fancied a break from noodle soup and chicken and rice). A big mistake, obviously the author had not visited Australia, or any other cow proud nation for a while, and had different standards regarding burgers to me. I decided that with so many good food stalls around that would be the last time I referred to the ‘Travelers Bible’ for food suggestions.
I also got my speedo fixed - plucked up the courage to rip out the wires (not that scary really as there were only two) and then indicated with lots of English and pointing where I wanted it soldered back up. 54km racked up on sightseeing.
Day 12. Back on the road, but I
Suhkothai
A treasured buddist handchoose the wrong one and it added 20km to the day. Now heading East towards NE Thailand I decided to take the back road which looked the same distance as the highway. With infrequent signage it was only when the end of the day neared and I realized I was not going to get to my target that I found a motel for the night. A hard fought 74km, it has not got any cooler yet!
Day 13. Made yesterday seem easy. Started to climb into the hills, climbing 860m during the 103km day (and beginning to really like the altimeter function of my cycle computer). The national park that was going to be by home for the night didn’t seem to get any closer! This may have had something to do with my frequent stops at ‘waterfalls’ (which were little more than rapids) and the resulting fully clothed dips I was taking. These were also a highlight for passing Thais and many were also swimming. Eventually arrived at the NP and upon enquiring about the restaurants described in my lonely planet was told there was none, and that the camping site was a further 5km into the NP…
A 'waterfall'
Good swimming though Neither detail being what I wanted, especially as I did not yet have any fuel for my stove (a slight oversight!).
I descended (at least it was downhill) to the campsite and overtook a group of Thais. Spying them (or rather their backpacks) as a potential food source I hoped to pitch my tent in close proximity to theirs. As soon as they arrived at the camping area they sent a delegate over to invite me to dinner - I couldn’t have been happier!
They setup a campfire and cooked up a feast involving omelet and various noodle dishes. Again fortunately we were able to converse in English and I learned that the following day they were heading to the same place as me, Phu Hin Rongkla National Park.
Day 14. Mountain Man. Another tough day, with a steep ascent to start with (retracing my steps to the park entrance: up to 17% gradient) and although I did not know it an even bigger accent to finish the day with. The 10km trip from the park entrance to campsite looked ominous. The mountain is now a national park after having been used by the Thailand Communist Party
Old Tyres
Inventive use for old tyres - bins as a base for their insurgency from 1967 to 82. The fact that it was unconquered by the Thai government of the time should have been me an idea of the steep sided strong hold that it was. The guards at the entrance indicated the route was up and down, and his face suggested tough. That was ok. But as darkness fell towards the end of my 3 hour ordeal I was still wondering where the down bits were - I had only noticed 1 bit of flat, for about 30m. Eventually I arrived and was most pleased to find the restaurants present in this campsite and sat down to a rice and a noodle dish, accompanied with by a large beer much to the amusement of the other (Thai) diners. I hadn’t been able to see my cycle computer in the dark but it now revealed that I had climbed 1500m during the day, 800m in the last 10km - My first mountain day…
Day 15 The night before I had pitched my tent on the first bit of available grass and now I went in search of the real camping area, and also my Thai friends. I
Campiste River
A very good alternative to a shower block met them just as they were starting breakfast and was instantly invited to join them. They were so friendly and generous. They were studying in Bangkok but spending some of their holiday traveling around NE Thailand, the area which they were from. We spent the day hitchhiking between the sights of the park and exploring the various old timber buildings from the mountains communist headquarters days - living, prison, school building, caves which served as air raid shelters, flag flying cliff and a water wheel. The hitching was fun - 9 of use in the back of a ute (pick up truck). This was how they were traveling all over North Eastern Thailand.
Day 16. Back on the bike and I struggled to decide which way to leave the park - continue on with ups and downs or go back the way I came. I was against the latter as I had already seen the area and the mountain was so steep I would be wasting valuable kinetic energy in braking. However a park ranger explained that back down was about 30km shorter, and this won the argument! The road seemed to have changed somewhat though as I found
three areas which were now slightly uphill - I had not noticed these on my way up previously!
From checking my emails previously Matt had pointed out that there was a buch of Malaria tablets in the fridge bearing my name.. Did I want them? The answer was of course yes, but I would need them before I would see him.. This would need a hospital visit. I had explained this to my Thai friends and they had written in Thai an explanation for a doctor. I visited Nakon Thai hospital and walked into A&E. Straight through the front door and into the operating room in fact. A Sunday afternoon and there were just 2 other patients being attended to. I received immediate attention and a supply of malaria tablets. Unfortunately I was given the Thai medication, which involved some of the drug I wanted, but also many weeks of a drug that had been described as ineffective by doctor in Oz and the Lonely Planet. Despite trying my best to explain that I just want more of the former I got nowhere and decided to leaving looking happy, and with all the staff happy. I could try again
Communist Camp Gun emplacement
Used to signify victories rather than as defense in the next town..
The day then headed up into a valley, which I soon named the valley of death. Not so much for the gradient, but the bush fires burning by the side of the road and the evidence of huge landslides! Once clear of these I stopped for lunch and then heard a thunderclap. No sooner than I remounted my bike the rain stared to come, slowly at first but heavily soon. No matter as the temperature plunged from 38 to 25C and latter 22 as I made it to the summit. After that it was all down hill to Dan Sai where I am now.
Next heading North towards the Laos border and then following the Mekong River to Vientaine.
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agnes
non-member comment
great experience and adventure. but what alot of hard work, climbing 1500m with a bike and a trailer by 40 c. Bravo! You got me worried for a minute with the hospital business. Take care Maman