Up in Hilltribe Country


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August 22nd 2007
Published: August 22nd 2007
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Dr Sem, the Foundation founderDr Sem, the Foundation founderDr Sem, the Foundation founder

The 96 year old founder was previously Minister for Health in the 1980's, and before that, as a surgeon, performed several Siamese twin separations.
Prior to taking off to South America, Neil spent a week in Northern Thailand as the first in his planned quarterly visits to assist the Sem Pringpuangkeo Foundation, a charity fund for educational support for orphan children affected by AIDS in the far northern regions of that country.

The area around Chiang Rai, where I was based for the week, is superbly lush at this time of year, as it receives regular rainfall. Much of it is quite mountainous (thus the presence of the hilltribe villages), and a lot of it is heavily covered by trees (of which teak and bamboo are common species), while those areas not covered by thick bush and trees are almost all used up on producing crops - rice on most of the flat lowland areas, and corn, tea, coffee and tropical fruit trees being the major crops in the more hilly regions. This is not an affluent part of Thailand, and many of the homes are primitive by western standards, but the people here are very resilient and most hospitable to outsiders. There are no shortage of dogs, chickens and cows wandering freely both in the urban areas and countryside!

One item of
Typical Chiang Rai countrysideTypical Chiang Rai countrysideTypical Chiang Rai countryside

This area is very mountainous and is currently very lush, with good crop growth in non-bushed areas
particular fascination up here is the incredible allegiance to the king by the Thai people (eat your heart out, Liz!). Not only does his face pop up in every office building and many billboards scattered around the countryside, but alternating Thai flags and yellow royal flags flank hundreds of kilometres of road (they must have made millions of the things), and every Monday and Friday, more than half the population wear special yellow shirts to work with "Long live the King" emblazoned on the back. I'll let you guess why they don't say "God save ..."!

My main role on this particular visit was to orientate myself with the work that the SPF does in this region, and offer any suggestions for improvement. As such, during my week here, I spent most of my time doing the rounds of the various schools, health clinics and families, accompanying the relevant SPF area coordinators and with my own interpreter, who in fact is a graduate of the Foundation and has chosen to work for them and put something back in return for their support to him over the years.

On each of the visits to the schools, they really laid
Akha Tribe dancingAkha Tribe dancingAkha Tribe dancing

The Akha is the most prevalent tribe in the region serviced by the Foundation
out the red carpet treatment (they must have thought I was John Howard!), and in most cases, apart from getting the opportunity to chat with those pupils that are part of the Foundation, I was treated to a number of impromptu concerts and exhibitions of Thai dancing by the children. In one school, they actually shut down all classes for an hour (the kids didn’t seem to mind too much!) as all the teachers gathered around me to practice their English!

The visits to the various homes of the Foundation children was really quite humbling. Most homes were pretty primitive and almost all the kids visited (12 homes in all) have either lost both parents, or father has died and mother has HIV, and they are generally cared for by grandmother (given that grandfather also likely died of AIDS). We saw very few men on our visits, and it appears that a combination of hard drinking, smoking, sex and drugs takes its toll in the region. Many of the grandmothers were in their 80s, and as well as having to bring up the children, they had to go to work to financially support them. The majority worked in either
Another countryside viewAnother countryside viewAnother countryside view

This shows how the rice fields combine with other crops
the rice, vege or fruit fields and earned around 2,000 baht (AUD70) per month.

For me, probably the highlight of the trip was the day spent up in the hilltribe region where we spent half a day at each of an Akha and Lisow village. To access these villages required 4WD vehicles, as the rains had made the dirt roads quite treacherous. While I had previously visited this region as a tourist about 10 years ago, there is a huge difference between the very ‘stage-managed’ view you might get of such villages via a commercial tour group, and that that you get when you see them as part of a local visit group as they go about their normal daily routine.

On my one day off, my hosts took me up to the Golden Triangle area (three way border of Thailand, Laos and Myanmar), where I spent an interesting hour at the Opium Museum (no free samples, I’m afraid!), saw relics of the old capital city (700 years ago) of Chiang Saen, then popped over the border for an hour or so of shopping in Myanmar (as you would!), at which I saw much of the clothing we
Sample home of Orphan ChildSample home of Orphan ChildSample home of Orphan Child

While they all have electricity now, not many have running water, and the interiors are generally sparsely furnished.
have purchased for our South American trip available for less than a quarter the price!

Should any of my good readers here be interested in supporting a child in the Foundation, it will only cost you the princely sum of around AUD200 per year (tax deductible, so not much more than a net AUD100 for you high-rollers!) and as well as having the satisfaction of helping out someone less privileged, the Foundation actually encourages foster parents to visit their kids and check out their operation. So you can combine this with you next holiday to Phuket or Koh Samui. If you have any interest, you can check out the website on ‘www.semfoundation.org’ (I wrote this website for them) and give me a call if interested.

Hopefully our next blog contribution shall be from Joan and myself from Quito in Ecuador in just over two weeks.


Additional photos below
Photos: 20, Displayed: 20


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Not  your classic Western Kitchen!Not  your classic Western Kitchen!
Not your classic Western Kitchen!

This is typical of the type of facilities these families use to cook the family meal.
Typical Foundation familyTypical Foundation family
Typical Foundation family

In this case, the mother had HIV, and mother and son were supported by her father, who is a fisherman.
Another Foundation familyAnother Foundation family
Another Foundation family

Grandma (age 77, but looks 90!) picks Lychees and Rambutans to provide a living for these two girls, bith of whom are doing very well at school.
Yet Another FamilyYet Another Family
Yet Another Family

Granddad makes these baskets for a living, while grandma was out working in the rice-fields.
Donating Food Parcel to Needy FamilyDonating Food Parcel to Needy Family
Donating Food Parcel to Needy Family

On each of our visits to the Foundation children's homes we took food parcels, which were well appreciated
I want to be a Doctor when I grow upI want to be a Doctor when I grow up
I want to be a Doctor when I grow up

This very switched on 8 year-old girl never saw her fatther and lives with mother, g'ma and grt g'ma. She already knows a number of English words.
Widows in Abundance!Widows in Abundance!
Widows in Abundance!

Four generations of family, with each of the ladies on the left of the photo being widowed.
Akha Family at HomeAkha Family at Home
Akha Family at Home

We were hosted by this Akha family who invited us into their home for morning tea. They actually comprise Mum, Dad and 2 kids, and are not part of the Foundation.
Who here supports the King?Who here supports the King?
Who here supports the King?

I kid you not - that was the question asked that raised this response from these Akha kids.
Photographing the Photographer!Photographing the Photographer!
Photographing the Photographer!

Who said the kids of the Hilltribes have no modern technology!
Ladies of the Lisow tribeLadies of the Lisow tribe
Ladies of the Lisow tribe

This tribe can be easily identified by the very characteristic purple and pink tops worn by the women.
Traditional Thai DancingTraditional Thai Dancing
Traditional Thai Dancing

This was the show turned on by the kids, at the school where the teachers gathered around to practice their English.
Not your average Pagoda!Not your average Pagoda!
Not your average Pagoda!

This Pagoda, just out from Chiang Rai, seemed to be made entirely from a white bone-like substance. Most impressive!
Growing your own vegetablesGrowing your own vegetables
Growing your own vegetables

One of the Foundation's objectives is to work with the Hilltribes and assist them to be self-sufficient, but conscious of protecting the environment.
No wonder the Hilltribes feel isolated!No wonder the Hilltribes feel isolated!
No wonder the Hilltribes feel isolated!

Some of the roads up the mountains into Hilltribe territory were steep and treacherous after rain, further isolating them at times.


31st August 2007

Such a simple life
Great pics, especially the children - they are just beautiful eh? Read with interest your commentary (such an interesting week!) and noted the "normal" family rarely includes a mother and father. I look forward to reading about the next adventure......enjoy!
7th September 2007

Beautiful Thai ladies
When I read your first entry I noticed the advertisement asking me if I want to meet beautiful Thai ladies. Looking forward to the the upcoming ads for Bolivian marching powder and such.

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