LEK'S ELEPHANT HEAVEN and MARVELOUS MAHOUTS

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I was looking forward to visiting the Elephant Nature Park (ENP) today for an overnight stay. In Chiang Mai the days are hot and the nights perfect - cool not cold. At 810 am I was picked up at the CM Blue House and we then travelled to the market to get some supplies to feed the elephants - bananas, melons and pineapples. Our guide was Buim and by 930 am we were out of the city and on the road to Pai to the ENP. On the way we watched a DVD about the plight of the elephant in Thailand and how they are sometimes mistreated and forced to beg for food in the streets of Bangkok. I had seen this the night before in Silom with two baby elephants near McDonalds, one had a hook near the left ear - it made me feel ill. It is about a 100 min drive to ENP and when we arrived we were taken upstairs for coffee and to learn more about the schedule and rules for our stay.

At 1115 we met the elephants and mahouts who train and look after the elephants and began feeding the elephants by hand. There was no rush and I fed my elephant nearly 2/3 of a basket of goodies. Everything is relaxed here, no pressure to do anything. We then watched the elephants while waiting for a great buffet lunch at 1215. At 1345 we had a special experience bathing the elephants in the river. The elephants lay down in the river and we threw buckets of water over them and washed them - they loved it and so did we. Our guide Buim made sure everyone was involved and made a special effort to get to know us better, a great guy for sure. The babys are especially playful in the river. We were very lucky as Sangduen "Lek" Chailert, the founder and director of ENP is here for both of our days and she is a wonderful lady who has dedicated her life to saving the asian elephant and educating as many people as possible to improve the life of the elephants. It is amazing to see the interaction and love between Lek and the elephants. They baby elephants put on a show rolling about in a small mud bath near the river for about half an hour before we went to a hut on stilts where Lek answered questions about the ENP.

At 1445 it was back for a drink and we then watched another DVD about Lek and her work to save the elephants. This is not for faint hearts as the movie shows the terrible pahjab where domesticated elephants are broken to the will of their mahout and owners. Lek is trying to show elephant owners and officials that elephants can be trained with love and positive methods that do not hurt the elephant like the traditional methods.

After the movie Buim showed me where my hut was located and explained the flowers and fruits growing in the gardens and what can be eaten by elephants and humans. The hut is very basic with single beds and a mosquito net with wooden windows which open up to give a view of the elephant's sleeping area and the mountains. I had a look around the gift shop and chatted with one of the mahouts before going back to the river for some more bathing with the elephants before we said goodbye to the day visitors.

At 1830 we hd another huge meal, you could come here just for the food. I sat with a family from Bournemouth England who chatted with me throughout our stay and also Moo-Loo and Sarah from Freemantle, WA. It is amazing the nice people you meet on these trips. There was also Caitlin from New Jersey and Leo and his girlfriend from Orlanda Florida. After dinner I sat on the porch with Moo-Loo and Sarah and just watched the elephants a metre from us for over an hour in the still of a beautiful, cool night. I only saw one mosquito, it is perfect here at this time of year.

There is not much to do at night so I went into the TV room and watched some kick boxing with the mahouts and one of the volunteers on TV. Volunteers pay to stay at ENP for extended periods and work and learn about the elephants and the local people and teach in the primary schools. I sat at the back for a while as I thought the guys would like a rest from the tourists. But suddenly a chair was pushed into the middle of the room and I was motioned to sit there next to a 21yo mahout called Rocky and his buddy Moses. They speak some english and most of the mahouts are from Burma, average age 20 to 25.

Rocky is from the Karen tribe and he looks after two elephants including the baby Papia. I felt guilty drinking my beer alone and I asked the volunteer if it would be Ok to buy the mahouts a beer. I returned from the kitchen with a can of beer for all twelve mahouts and they were very appreciative. They earn about A$130 a month plus their food and room and I don't think they have much spare cash for beer. Rocky and Moses told me about their elephants and they wanted to know more about my life in Australia. We talked and watched TV for two hours till everyone went to bed around 2300 pm. If you make an effort to meet the mahouts you will learn how special they are, this was two of the best hours that I can remember with genuine great guys that love their work and their life with their magnificent elephants.

From then on for the rest of my stay Moses and especially Rocky really made my visit a great experience. They took my pictures with the elephants and made sure I enjoyed my trip to ENP. Rocky told me about his baby Papia and told me more about the elephants and his life. This guy is marvelous and always smiling and so helpful. He was even singing and playing his guitar while having a break. Rocky selected his favourite wood carving of his baby elephant Papia for me to purchase from the gift shop, one he made himself - and it was not the most expensive, it is a simple carving but will be my most treasured souvenir of Thailand. You cannot buy anything like this from a market.

Well I was tired and slept well till 300 am when the elephants trumpetted in the still of the night. I would have been disappointed if it did not happen, a special treat. The berries also fell on the roof of the hut through the night, who cares - this is paradise. At 600 am I was up before all the other tourists to see the sunrise and the mahouts getting the elephants ready for another day. Whatever you do, do not sleep in, get up and look out your window at this time. I had an elephant a metre from my window. The bathroom facilities are basic but clean here, cold showers - bring a towel and your toiletries. Have a shower the night before, not in the cool morning.

After a good breakfast we went for a walk in the valley with Jode, a long term volunteer and the elephants and mahouts. Jode told us many stories about the elephants and this was a great experience being up close and personal with nature at it's best. We fed and bathed with the elephants after lunch and then relaxed while the new visitors watched the dvd we had seen the previous day. There were 36 vistors on day one and about 20 on day two - I never felt over crowded.

As Lek was here again today I made an effort to introduce myself to her and we a had a nice chat. She asked me to find a friend of hers in Adelaide with whom she had lost contact so I will make a special effort when I get home to do this, least I can do for Lek after seeing what she is doing for the elephants and everyone around her at ENP.

If you come to ENP I suggest you stay two nights as these visitors make a trek to "Elephant Haven" where Lek hopes to put some of the elephants free into the wild. I was not aware of this and would have stayed an extra night as this would be a great side trip. I did suggest an extra activity would be good for the overnight visitors as there was not much to do between 1330 and 1630 on day two. I am not complaining at all as I spent this time talking with the mahouts and volunteers and just watching the elephants. A Thai massage is available upstairs and there are books to read, coffee is available at any time and there is plenty of drinking water. They really look after you here.

We had one last bath with the elphants at 1630 and it was then time to say goodbye. Rocky took more pictures of me and Papia and then we hugged each other and he told me he would never forget me. I never will forget you Rocky, and Moses, all the mahouts and Lek, I will return to see more of "Elephant Heaven" one day soon.

I am not afraid to say that I got a bit misty eyed as we were leaving and I even got two hugs from our guide Buim as he was leaving in the other mini van back to Chiang Mai. If you have the chance to visit when you come to Thailand put this haven for elephants and humans at the top of your list and make an effort to mix with everyone here. If you see my friend Rocky tell him you know Leon from Adelaide, Australia and give him a big hug from me.

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Photos

My new friends at ENP
Marvelous mahouts is an understatement - they love the elephants in their care - really great guys !!!

Feeding Time
Need a conveyor belt to the basket!!!

Bath Time
Something special to try

Rocky
A very special friend always

Leon and Lek
Lek is founder of ENP - a wonderful lady

My Hut
No mozzies tonight - great view though

Papia Drinking
Carved by Rocky - special souvenir

Leon and Papia
Rocky's baby

Dogs luv it here
There are dogs and cats everywhere here