Conflicting Ethics


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Asia » Thailand » North-West Thailand » Chiang Mai
January 20th 2019
Published: January 20th 2019
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Wow. What a day today was. Something I'd never thought I'd actually experience. Elephant rides, ox cart riding, bamboo rafts. It was an amazing experience, but also had some mixed feelings. We arrived at Maetaman Elephant Camp and were immediately in awe of these beautifully ginormous creatures. They seem so gentle, yet can be so destructive. First we saw an elephant show. and Immediately I began to feel uncomfortable. Although it was so cool to see giant elephants kicking soccer balls and painting artwork, I couldn't help but think how voluntary this was for the elephants. I know that animals can be trained and used for work, like horses with bits and oxen with yokes, but just seeing the sharp tool that they would use to steer the elephant or get it to pay attention made me cringe. Aside from that, I couldn't help but be in awe by the intelligence of these animals. Their ability to hold a paintbrush with their trunk, or be so gentle and give a massage to a person, or kick a soccer ball head on, is amazing to see. I hope that the mahouts (those that tend elephants) share a bond with the elephants so that there is more of a connection and exchange rather than a show. I bought some sugar canes to feed the elephants, and they know to come right up to you. It's so funny, how they'll put their trunk all up in your face, hoping that you have some food for them. I had a stack of sugar canes, and I pulled one out to give to an elephant. Well this smart guy grabbed the one from me, and then when I wasn't looking he reached on my other side for the stack that I was holding. Before I was able to even react, he had a whole stack of sugar canes heading for his mouth. There goes my 30 baht, oh well, I'm glad he enjoyed it.

After the show we got to ride elephants across the river and into the forest. Again, an unreal experience with mixed emotions. The jostling and bumpy rides made for some difficult picture taking, but to just take in the wonder of these creatures and the nature around me was enough to put the camera down and stare in wonder at God's creation. This was an amazing experience, I just wish I knew that the elephants were enjoying it too. I flinched every time the mahout would hit the elephant to go faster or stay straight. My Thai buddy would talk to the mahout every time he tried to hit him because she couldn't stand it either. He said they have really tough skin, so I'm not sure how much they actually feel, but it just hurts me to watch. Behind the ears of the elephant is where they are most sensitive, so the mahout keeps his feet behind the ears and gives them a tap to turn or go forward. Again, not sure how much they can actually feel, but it doesn't always look nice. I made sure to feed my elephants really well and give them some loving tender care. I would walk around and see elephants just enjoying their meals (they eat 400lbs a day), but their foot is chained with only about 3 feet of slack to move around. Maybe it's for safety? I keep trying to compare it to how we would train a horse. We use whips and bits and restraints for them, so why does it seem so much more unnatural on an elephant? Either way, it made me sad to see.

Next up was ox cart riding. This one seemed more normal to me, probably because oxen are more commonly used and seen for farm work or labor. I still don't really like seeing them so hard at work all day, carrying around a big wooden cart filled with people. Their harnesses are attached to them not by a bit in their mouth, but by a rope that goes through their nostrils. I can't imagine how sensitive that must be for them, but definitely effective in getting them to move. I know these animals are so strong and are used to being put to work every day, I just don't like to be the one to make them do it. I'm sure they take care of the animals well, it's just a different style of life.

We had lunch at the buffet in the camp, which was actually really good, and then we went on a bamboo raft. Finally the ethical morals part of my brain was able to take a rest. Bamboo. No hitting, no saddles, no ropes through the nose, just a nice, peaceful ride down the Mae Taeng River. It was exactly what I needed. Beautiful views and elephants bathing as you floated by. This is what I dreamed of, except for the giant balls of elephant dung that would float past us.

Tonight was such an American Dinner, Coca Cola and Pizza. It tasted sooooo good. I ate 4 slices. Dessert was Thai, it's called cow neow mamuang. It's basically sticky rice with mango and coconut milk. Delicious. We played some volleyball with Thai students and then hunkered down for the night. My stomach is just about to burst but people keep giving me food I can't resist. I'll regret it in the morning I guess. Overall, this day was absolutely amazing, one I will never forget. But what will also always stick with me is the treatment of these camps and the way I couldn't fully be 100% satisfied with the whole experience due to the conditions of these animals. I guess now you can call me Ma Yu Ree, animal activist. Pretty soon I'll be a vegetarian.

Until next time,

Molly

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