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Asia » Thailand » North-East Thailand » Nong Khai
August 21st 2008
Published: August 21st 2008
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Firstly folks apologies for taking so long to update the blog. I meant to do it a couple of days ago, but went down with a little bit of a cold and faced with a fifteen minute walk into town, in the heat and humidity or relaxing on our little house boat watching the world go by sipping drinks - well you know which option won out!!! And I've still got my little cold so I'm getting a little fed up!!!

Anyway I digress so back to what I'm here for an update!

We arrived Bangkok - WOW - what a difference!!! The airport is huge, no stopping for visas! Straight into a brand new air con taxi and whisked away to our desired location. Everywhere is so clean, so western, so neon .... so everything we haven't experienced for the last two months!!! Everyone drives calmly, more or less in the right direction, no constant blaring of horns, no holding on for dear life and actually stopping for a red traffic light - heavens the knowledge it's safe to cross when the lights turn red!!! Our first evening saw us walking with eyes wide open up and down Khao San Road where our hotel was. We couldn't quite believe everything in front of us. Boots, Starbucks, McDonalds everything you can imagine. We got over the shock and relaxed with a drink and a meal - all western I'm afraid to say - well why not!!

Next day saw us walking to Wat Pho. The pavements are beautifully clean and adorned with clipped hedgerows and even more beautiful flowers. We managed not to take the advice of the friendly locals telling us that the various sights were closed - because they weren't - and no we didn't want a tuk tuk because we were walking - but all done with brilliant smiles!!!

The Wat is yet again amazing. It houses the biggest collections Buddhas and to top them all is a 46m reclining Buddha finished in gold leaf. The base of the feet are inlaid with mother of pearl. There are many smaller wats bedecked in beautiful and vibrant colours. Gold backdropped by deep emerald and sapphire colours all set against a cloudless blue sky. We were stopped by a group of schoolgirls who had followed us into the Wat. With much giggling they asked if we had some free time. Rather hesitantly we replied yes, wondering what was coming next. Then appeared a piece of A4 paper with questions written out in English. As part of learning English they had come out to the Wat to talk to English people and practice away. We were taped, photographed and filmed and they all took it in turns to ask various questions, and at the end of it all we were given gifts of little traditional thai bags!! Much giggling and more photos later everyone left!! Anyway the whole of the wat area is fantastic and extremley well maintained. We walked back to our hotel through the old food markets where everything imaginable is available to eat. The smells and colours were mind boggling and couldn't fail to tantalise the tastebuds. Everywhere is a complete hive of activity and all done with smiles on the face.

We decided only to stay two nights in Bangkok as we will more than likely come back through when heading south later on in the next two months. So all being well there will be more to report back on.

We caught then a bus to Kanchanburi, home of the infamous River Kwai and bridge. The Southern Bus terminal in Bangkok is like an airport terminal it has everything and is complete with air con yet again! Our trip took about two to three hours and we fondly thought we would get to see our first bit of Thai countryside. However, the highway all the way to Kanchanburi is a classic example of a linear development and it goes all the way!! Occasional glimpses could be seen but the foreground was one of shops and homes. Most interesting was the streetlights - honest!!! They are painted green and gold and have golden elephants at the very top holding the street lamps from their trunks! Beats our very boring grey ones anyday!!

We stopped at the Sugar Cane Hotel and had a house boat on the RIver Kwai. Brilliant. Just off to our right was the Bridge itself. It is a beautiful area with such a tragic history. We watched the sunset and got used to the movement under our feet!

The following day saw us hiring pushbikes and we headed first to the War Cemetary and then to the Thai-Burma Railway Centre. Here is a fantastic museum which tells the history in brilliant detail about the 415km track. The museum is poignant, thought provoking and heartbreaking. For me it is one of the best museums I have ever visited. There is various memorabillia including a letter from a girl to her father. The letter tells him about the new pets she has, about a visit from the tooth fairy, how she pops through the fence to see the horse in the field and then most movingly she writes 'I sat and wondered what you were doing Daddy, and I wondered and wondered'. That was enough for me.

We cycled upto the Bridge - infact the two bridges, as they were originally two - one being wooden which there is a very small part left. They were both bombed and only the one was rebuilt. You can walk across the bridge along with the many other folk doing the same. You can still see the bomb damage on the concrete pillars either side of the river, apart from that the whole area is very touristy and doesn't warrant much for keeping you there. It is better to get away to a quieter area and take in the surroundings than being bugged by locals selling books and tuk tuk drivers.

Kanchanburi itself is quite a big town but the road that leads upto the bridge is a strip of vile 'english' type bars and restaraunts, which completely detracts from the area and is a total and unecessary eyesore. I can only recommend anyone who is coming here to get off the main road and venture onto the side roads and find a more traditional restaraunts or street food bars. Far more satisfying and your not lining the pockets of these sad english semi owners (no english people are allowed to own property in Thailand) and encouraging them anymore than necessary. I think you can guess, we are none to impressed by them!

Moving on we caught the bus and train upto Nong Khai on the Mekong River. On the opposite side of the river is Laos our next destination. There has been major flooding here but everywhere seems to be recovering quite well. The little floating restaraunt we have eaten on should be at the bottom of fifty five steps. It currently sits just ten down - that's how high the river has risen. Boats battle furiously to cross the huge river and when the get midstream they start to go backwards such is the force. There is still some flooding in the side road but the mud has been cleared away except down on the river banks - an ongoing project. Last nights sunset over the river was fantastic, backdropped by lightning and the Laos Hills in the distance. We are here for a few more days before heading on over the Friendship Bridge into Laos and her capital Vientiane.


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