Settlers of Khao Yai


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December 21st 2015
Published: January 21st 2016
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The brilliant Homtel gang and I were settled on our next episode, we'd head down to settle in Khao Yai national park from the farm. A big goodbye and thank you to the family, such a special place. It felt strange to leave our home of the past two weeks.

Swinging into Pak Chong early morning, on one of the few village buses out, we soon found stalls for our jointly craved potion of Iced Thai Tea, '4 coming right up.' We passed elephants that were walked through the streets by the market's only aggressive sellers (no thanks, we didn't want anything), and soon grabbed a hearty breakfast - various dishes, which were assured of our desired spiciness 'real spicy, honestly', including the delicious morning glory (wonderfully seasoned and spiced water spinach). From here we were sent down the road to a friend of the chatty food shop owner, who could help us with sourcing motorbikes. This mechanic guy was lovely, he took us down in shuttle runs to a big motorbike store where most others were closed that day. Here we got suited up, straddling our bikes in a row, 'snap', and feeling geared up for our day.
As the newby to this mode I took a few escorted turns of the block, getting used to the throttle, feeling the gang's support and advice, their trust that I'd pick it up easy (thanks guys!).. An immediate 3 lane crossing turn after, 'your baptism of fire!' said Rebecca, and we were all ready for our ride ahead.

The ride was a fine one! It's a freeing and pretty addictive feeling of cruising along smooth, scenery-framed roads, with sleeves flapping, hair dancing around in helmet. These roads were well looked after and in our interchanging chain we kept heading south. It was nice to see my familiar friend heads ahead, I absolutely loved the ride. Occasionally we'd be passed by Paul looking every bit the experienced motorbike camera man - Tour de France recorder, safari park snapper, the camera man to capture any movements.

A story of Khao Yai park could be told in a roll call of the signs we would pass and stop at during our time.. On the way down, we had turns off for Cold Mountain resort, Swan Lake, Swiss squares, French bakeries and Olde English caverns. As a popular spot for Thai tourism, the area has responded to the desire to get easily to a stay that seems exotic, far from Thailand. Within the park we would find various cautionary signs 'Cobra crossing', as we winded up the beautiful hill roads. 'Mind the gibbons', who roam all about the park but have a few favourite spots. 'Beware elephants' upon a campsite entrance, and please do not feed the animals, with picture of deer. Some of these would proove foretelling!
Other signs nodded to key spots in the park - the beautiful lake, the interactive unesco museum, Haew Suwat waterfall (made famous in The Beach) and dedicated walking trails which typically led to one of the waterfalls.

We had a long enjoyable ride through the park, taking in the wonderful reaching landscapes and we caught the end of a sunset by the central lake.

Setting up and settling into camp (just before it was dark) was great. Sitting out on our spare mattress, bananas being fried on our fire with chargrilled raisin bread, loiters of stars appearing and our stream neighbour trickling - beautiful. Foraging for new fire wood and dry leaves, we kept the fire going well, with the occasional sparkler dance. During the evening we'd have deer pass by, some with large antlers and curious eyes and see huge porquepines about the site's buildings.

The park rangers soon blurted out horns through the park, and when our phone signals were all lost we wondered if this was a Hunger Games we'd stumbled into!
Time for sleep and story time.

Before Paul was off to meet Chiang Mai, we'd all get to Haew Suwat waterfall. It was a great spot, we'd all chill a little, sitting on logs, on rocks, the falling water stainglassing the sunlight and butterflies flickered about. We felt lucky to be here, keeping a magic of Thailand's stunning north eastern area going after our in time in Wang Nam Khiao with the farm stay.



Other highlights of the park -
1) Relaxing after lunch, a pumped up and very sure of himself Gibbon planned and executed a popcorn stealing crime with incredible speed and cunning - the devil! He then scampered up to smugly try to open our popcorn above our heads. Shocked, laughing. Even better, a thai kid no more than 5 turned to us right after and in perfect, moment expressioned English said 'oh my god!' to us. We'd treasure that brilliant piece. And as for the Gibbon, as Becca put it: 'I hope he's gasping after!'

2) Wandering about the camp showers one morning we were invited to breakfast by a really friendly and fun group of young Thais. They were very generous, dishing us ever refilled bowls from their noodle soup pans. That was a fun start to the day, and I know I at least felt much more awake after.

3) Sam getting out and back into the park (playing the 'oh, sorry I didn't know' card) with more fuel and beers hidden in his bike, even chilled with ice!, for our second evening's cheeky cheers by the campfire. Star. The opening of the cans was a spot on moment.

4) A splendid evening picnic (again courtesy of our swift supplier Sam) where we ate beautiful fresh fish, papaya salad and sticky rice within the park's wedding shot spots - the lake ahead, grasslands about and sky above. So good!
This also featured what I now refer to as Beautiful wee no1- walking up into the long grassed hills, my convenience perch looked out upon all this as the sunset came in.

5) Farang! We found our moniker muttered more here, sometimes to us with fondness, sometimes about us with amusement, sometimes we wasn't so sure. But we were getting better at hearing it, and sometimes saying it back, yes I farang!

5) Continuation of our 'An English, an Irish and a San Fran farang' word and phrase sharing - just chatting and a word or phrase from one our home tongues would jump out and need explaining or cherishing further!
Highlights - 'Craic or wack', Jesus wept.. Jesus tutted. This still hasn't petered out - the new finds just keep coming out.




A brilliant trip with 3 good friends. Back on our bikes and onto new destinations, via a breakfast stop off (2 in Sam's case!) and a wander through an alpine themed village - bizarre. We knew we'd see eachother again before long..



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Resources - wood, coal, bedding, water Can we trade for beer?


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