Land of Smiles - Thailand - December, 2016

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Land of Smiles – Thailand – December 2016



What a wonderful change of pace: my flight from Shanghai to Bangkok doesn’t depart until early afternoon so I can sleep late, enjoy a leisurely breakfast, pack my bag and still have enough time to relax in the executive lounge before returning to the airport. Again, via the Maglev high-speed train and this time, I get to enjoy the ride during daylight hours. This is probably my easiest travel day yet – just over 4 hours to the Thai capital and I’ll arrive around dinner time.



The temperature had dropped drastically by the time my driver arrived to escort me back to the airport. It was close to the freezing mark with high winds, but I hadn’t brought a coat as most of this trip will be spent in tropical climes, so I have to suck it up until I’m inside the terminal building. It took almost an hour to check in – the Chinese really don’t get the concept of speed and efficiency apparently – but at least they stamped my passport with the required exit visa and I made my way to the departure gate. Today I get to experience Shanghai Airlines which is a recent addition to the Skyteam alliance, and a new one for me to fly.



A smooth and uneventful flight to Bangkok and as always, I flew thru the super-efficient customs and immigration in less than 5 minutes, arriving at the baggage carousel before my bag arrived. What is it about Chinese airlines? Last month they lost my bag in India and this trip, they damage my new suitcase by tearing off one of the 4 spinner wheels, making it damn near impossible to handle now. I suppose I should be thankful the bag even made it to Thailand!



Found my driver and within an hour, I was checking into my home away from home for the next 3 nights. When in Bangkok previously, I always stayed in either the Conrad or the Hilton Millennium – both excellent hotels for sure – but I have to experience other hotels once in a while and now is as good a time as any to do that. Century Park hotel is situated in the commercial and shopping district of Pratunam, with easy access to the express transit system. Shopping, restaurants, banks and offices are located nearby. It’s rated as “superior tourist “, but as with many Asian hotels, it’s way above that – it’s gorgeous, loaded with amenities - at least a 4-star. Only negative I can see so far, is the miserably-slow internet connection, but then, you get what you pay for right? And this is free WiFi. So long as I can view emails and the current state of the US stock markets on a daily basis, I’m happy.



First morning in Bangkok is as good a time as any for a city and temple tour, so it’s time to board the sightseeing bus and head out – it’s been a while since my last visit. But first things first and that includes a shower and breakfast. This buffet meal was surprisingly good, probably due to the Quiche Lorraine which is something you don’t see every day in Asian restaurants. Good selection of cereals, yogurts, breads and fruit – very typical for hotels which mainly cater to western tourists.



Bangkok hits you like a ton of bricks. Hot, polluted and crazy, it thrills with energy while at the same time, greeting you like the old friend it is. The city is a mesmerizing blend of old and new, East and West, and dizzying contradictions. Temples and red-light districts, languid canals and permanent gridlock, street-side vendors and chic upscale eateries, all exist side by side. It is also the political, economic, cultural, culinary, and spiritual capital of Thailand, featuring both old-world charm and modern convenience - at times served up in an apparently chaotic manner, but always with a gracious smile.



Why I love Bangkok……admittedly there are some things that make Bangkok a less-than-ideal city, but there is so much more that makes it amazing. I love the food. What other location has such a full-flavored,no-holds-bared, insatiable, fanatical approach to eating? Until you’ve eaten on a Bangkok street, your noodles mingling with your sweat amid a cloud of exhaust fumes, you haven’t actually eaten Thai food. It can be an intense mix: the basic flavors – spicy, sour, sweet and salty – aren’t exactly meat and potatoes. But for adventurous foodies who don't need white tablecloths, there’s probably no better dining destination in the world. And with immigration bringing every regional Thai and international cuisine to the capital, it's also a truly diverse experience.

I love old Bangkok. Districts such as Banglamphu and Chinatown still carry the grit, charm and character of the city that used to be. And I’d be lying if I didn’t also say that I love new Bangkok – don’t we all have a soft spot for megamalls and air-conditioning? With so much of daily life conducted on the street, there are few cities in the world that reward exploration as handsomely as Bangkok. Cap off an extended boat trip with a visit to a hidden market. A stroll off Banglamphu’s beaten track can lead to a conversation with a monk. Get lost in the tiny lanes of Chinatown and stumble upon a live Chinese opera performance. After dark, let the BTS (Skytrain) escort you to Sukhumvit, where the local nightlife scene reveals a sophisticated and dynamic city.

The language barrier may seem huge, but it's never prevented anybody from interacting with the Thai people. The capital’s cultural underpinnings are evident in virtually all facets of everyday life, and most enjoyably through its residents' sense of sa-nuk (fun). In Bangkok, anything worth doing should have an element of sa-nuk. Ordering food, changing money and haggling at markets will usually involve a sense of playfulness – a dash of flirtation, perhaps – and a smile. It’s a language that doesn’t require words, and one that's easy to learn.

Only mid-morning and yet the mercury has already climbed into the low 90’s with a matching humidity rating – I’m dripping in sweat within 5 minutes of leaving the air-conditioned hotel lobby. In this climate, it makes more sense to do sightseeing in smaller increments, or you risk ending up totally exhausted and wiped out by the end of the afternoon. I headed to the Wat Pho complex (Temple of the Reclining Buddha) which first included an hour of crossing the city in morning traffic. It’s one of the largest temple complexes in the city and is famed for its giant reclining Buddha which measures approximately 150’ in length and is covered in gold leaf. This is also a great place to get a traditional Thai massage, as Wat Pho is considered the leading school of massage in Thailand – so you’re in good hands here! Spending a couple of hours walking around in this heat/humidity was all I could take and by 1pm I was headed back to the hotel to relax during the heat of the early afternoon. Hard to believe, less than 24 hours ago, I was shivering in the mid 30 degree cold of Shanghai!



Dinner was at the hotel with a varied selection of Thai and western dishes buffet style, and compared with the buffet meals I have had over the past three months, it was pretty good. The shrimp dim sum was especially delicious – I had to have seconds of those! A massage parlor just a 5-minute walk from the hotel came highly recommended, so I decided to check it out the following day. Had a fantastic 1-hour foot massage for 200 baht (approximately $5) and it felt like walking on air on the way back to the hotel. The prices are really low for a variety of full body, feet, neck and back massages, including oil and aromatherapy treatments. The most expensive is less than $24 and that’s for a solid 2 hours of massage. If I lived here, I would have standing weekly appointments.



It’s Christmas Eve and my last night in Bangkok before heading north, and to celebrate the festive occasion, I’m attending a city highlight: Siam Niramit Show with Dinner, aka “Journey to the Enchanted Kingdom of Siam”. This multi award winning show is an absolute must see while visiting Bangkok. The show is one of the largest stage productions in the world, compromising of over 100 performers with more than 500 costumes. Amazing special effects using the worlds most advanced technology and stunning sets based on treasured works of art, give an excellent introduction to Thailand’s history and culture. The show is approximately 1.5 hours in length and is shown in three different parts. Part 1: A Journey back to history, Part 2: Journey beyond imagination: The three worlds, and Part 3: Journey through joyous festivals. Before the show,I get to enjoy an International buffet dinner, showcasing different Thai cuisine from the four corners of the country. On the show grounds, are four traditional Thai villages to explore. Just back from this incredible production and I think only one word describes it: unbelievable. The stage settings and backdrops are fantastic. The costumes are brilliant, intricate and beautiful. Sound system almost blew out my eardrums (no doubt the very best Bose speakers surround the entire audience), but what sealed the deal for me, was when I realized there was an actual RIVER (yeah, I’m talking real water here) running across the entire front of the stage! One of the performers jumped in up to his shoulders as if taking a bath, and dragon boats loaded with fruit, flowers and vegetables were paddled from one side to the other – I was impressed, to say the least. Other performers were flying in fabulous costumes to stimulate heavenly beings and they even had a couple of elephants to round out the show…..I vote yes on this event. It is worth seeing once, for sure. Probably wouldn’t do it again simply because it couldn’t have the same impact as a repeat performance. Cameras were collected prior to the performance as photography or video recording was strictly forbidden, but I did manage to capture some great pictures during the preshow event outside the theater. I was back at the hotel around 10:30pm and time to pack my bag in preparation for an early morning departure.



Christmas Day and time to head north, but first a short one hour drive to visit the stunning Summer Palace aka Bang Pa-In Palace which is named for the province in which it resides. While being open to tourists, it is still occasionally used by the royal family for special events and state visits of foreign dignitaries. The stunning complex has a history dating back to the 17^th century and was originally built by King Prasat Thong of Ayutthaya. When Ayutthaya was invaded and then destroyed by the Burmese in 1767, Bang Pa-In Palace was left abandoned for almost a century.



During the reign of King Mongkut (Rama VI) in the 1850’s some of the structures were rebuilt, but most of the buildings of the palace today, date from the late 19^th century. A number of these structures were built in very different architectural styles – some in classical Thai, some Chinese and some European. The large landscaped gardens are very well maintained, the neo classical style European buildings give the Summer Palace a little of a Versailles-like atmosphere. It would be easy to spend a full day in this picturesque and very photogenic location, but 2 hours were all I had to enjoy strolling the tree-lined walkways and taking a boatload of pix.



Following a lunch stop at a delightful resort spa in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by flooded rice paddies, the bus continued to the historic city of Ayutthaya, founded in 1350 as the second capital of the Siamese Kingdom. It flourished from the 14th to the 18th centuries, during which time it grew to be one of the world’s largest and most cosmopolitan urban areas, and a center of global diplomacy and commerce. Ayutthaya was strategically located on an island surrounded by three rivers connecting the city to the sea. This site was chosen because it was located above the tidal bore of the Gulf of Siam as it existed at that time, thus preventing attacks by sea-going warships of other nations. The location also helped to protect the city from seasonal flooding.



Ayutthaya is now an archaeological ruin, characterized by the remains of tall prang (reliquary towers) and Buddhist monasteries of monumental proportions, which give an idea of the city’s past size and the splendor of its architecture. The city became a center of economics and trade at the regional and global levels, and an important connecting point between East and West. The Royal Court of Ayutthaya exchanged ambassadors far and wide, including with the French Court at Versailles and the Mughal Court in Delhi, as well as with the imperial courts of Japan and China.



When the capital of the restored kingdom was moved downstream and a new city built at Bangkok, there was a conscious attempt to recreate the urban template and architectural form of Ayutthaya. Many of the surviving architects and builders from Ayutthaya were brought in to work on building the new capital. This pattern of urban replication is in keeping with the urban planning concept, in which cities of the world consciously try to emulate the perfection of the mythical city of Ayodhaya. In Thai, the official name for the new capital at Bangkok retains “Ayutthaya” as part of its formal title.



It was a fairly long drive (approximately 4-5 hours with a lunch stop) to the next point of interest on my trek north.....Sukhothai, considered the birthplace of the Thai nation and founded back in the 13^th century by King Ramkhamhaeng. The Sukhothai (Rising of Happiness) Kingdom flourished from the mid-13^th to the late 14^th century and this period is often viewed as the golden age of Thai civilization. The religious art and architecture of this era, are considered the most classic of Thai styles. The remains of this ancient city, known today as Meuang Gow (old city), are now one of the most visited sites in Thailand. It’s a small city with a population of approximately 37,000 residents, Tonight’s hotel is the Legendha, which has the appearance more of a chalet/lodge style buildings, all one-story, and built around a series of lily ponds. It could easily be transported to a game reserve in Africa. Basic accommodation with great internet connections and excellent air conditioning – my two main requirements of any hotel these days. Comfortable bed, only English language TV channel is BBC World News, but it works for a one night stay.



The weather hasn’t changed much since my arrival – hot and humid every day and the temperature doesn’t drop much overnight – but have my fingers crossed for cooler climes the further north I go. Thailand has a high-water table plus monsoon seasons which are responsible for the mosquito problem. These suckers are big enough to be saddled and ridden! Thankfully I’m evil enough most don’t bother biting me (no doubt due to a strong sense of self-preservation) but I’m applying repellent just in case.



Very early start the next morning for another long day’s drive which will bring me to the northern most tip of the country, Chiang Rai in the Golden Triangle (yes, THAT Golden Triangle, center of the opium trade for many years and quite possibly, still is). A pleasant surprise when stepping outside the hotel – the mercury has dropped at least 15 degrees along with corresponding humidity – it’s the first temperate morning since I arrived in Thailand. The bus was outside the city limits within 30 minutes and we started to climb up into the hills. They are heavily forested with clinging vines clogging the tree line – it would take a couple of machetes to cut thru that blanket of thick green foliage. The views grew more and more interesting the higher we went, passing endless fields of tapioca, banana palm tree plantations and even tobacco. Lone homesteads and small villages dotted the countryside and smoke from fires hung limply in the humid air, circling in lazy spirals against the brilliant blue sky.



En route, I had the opportunity to visit the house/work studio of a little old Thai lady who produces natural indigo from indigenous plants grown in her yard. The was almost a lost art as much of current blue dyes are now chemically based, but she refused to give up what she loved doing, producing beautiful blue batik cloth using all natural indigo. It wasn’t until the country’s crown princess heard about this lady, visited her personally and the rest is history. Her business took off and now she has a clothing store on her property and apparently is doing very well.



It was a long tiring 8-hour driving day but finally, just after sunset, we arrived in Chiang Mai and checked into the A-Star Phulare Valley Resort Hotel, which is located nestled among the green and misty mountains overlooking Chiang Rai. The accommodations consist of 92 separate villas surrounded by gorgeous natural scenery. These villas are spread out across the property with the lobby and restaurant located In the center. Open less than two years, it is probably one of the best resorts currently in Thailand! Some are located far enough away, a golf cart is needed to transport you from villa to lobby but it’s well worth the effort. When I entered mine, what a delight. The room is huge with the far wall being all glass giving entrance to a wide balcony overlooking the entire valley and surrounding mountains. Very modern décor with super comfortable king size bed, large bathroom and rainfall shower head – perfect. Fast broadband internet connection (10 thumbs up for this), and all the privacy in the world.



After a quick shower and change of clothes, I called reception for a golf cart which arrived in less than 3 minutes. It was full dark by the time and the main building was a blaze of lights, including Christmas trees fully decorated and a field directly across from the lobby, was being prepared for an outdoor BBQ complete with roaring bonfire around which tables and chairs were arranged. There is a large stage at the far end for under-the-open-sky concerts. Dinner this evening was to be served outside on a private patio at the back of the building, under Chinese lanterns dancing in the light breeze. I dined on a variety of fabulous entrees, including 3 different chicken dishes, Tom Yum Soup, deep fried morning glories (yes, I do mean those flowers in your front garden) and rice. Dessert was coconut cream with a platter of fresh fruit…..a fabulous meal, in a fabulous location under an inky Thai sky – doesn’t get much better than this! By 10pm I was ready for my golf cart ride back to my villa and a solid night’s sleep in that super comfy bed…..crisp sheets never felt so good.



A little bit of history:



Chiang Rai Province has such a diversity of attractions. This small, delightful city is worth getting to know with its relaxed atmosphere, good-value accommodation and great local food. It’s also the logical base from which to plan excursions to the more remote corners of the province. Founded by Phaya Mengrai in 1262 as part of the Lao–Thai Lanna kingdom, Chiang Rai didn’t become a Siamese territory until 1786 and finally a province in 1910. It is the northernmost large city in Thailand, is located approximately 530 miles north of Bangkok and is the gateway to the Golden Triangle region of Thailand, Laos and Myanmar.



Another early start the following morning to explore this fascinating area and it starts with a quickie visit to what was once one of the most isolated countries in the world – Myanmar, aka Burma. Myanmar's people and history is a glorious mishmash of settlers and invaders from all fronts. The Mon and the Pyu are thought to have come from India, while the now dominant Bamar migrated through Tibet, and by 849 AD, had founded a powerful kingdom centered on Bagan. For the next millennium, the Burmese empire grew through conquests of Thailand (Ayutthaya), India, and shrank under attacks from China and internal rebellions.



Eventually, Britain conquered Burma over a period of 62 years (1824-1886) and incorporated it into the British colonial Empire. It was administered as a province of India until 1937 when it became a separate self-governing colony. Most of the jobs in the British-led administration were occupied by people brought from India and the local Bamar people were sidelined. The local farmers became prey of south Indian money lenders who confiscated their land. The oppression of British rule prompted the Burmese to co-operate with the Japanese during the Second World War. Burma was a major battleground as the Allies fought the Japanese for dominance over Asia.



The Burma Road was built to get supplies to China. The Thailand-Burma railroad (the so-called "Death Railway") from Kanchanaburi in Thailand over the River Kwai to Burma, was built by the Japanese using forced labor — a great number of people (estimated at 80,000) died during construction of the railway. Large parts of Western Burma, particularly the hilly areas bordering India and the city of Mandalay were severely damaged during the war. Road to Mandalay – wouldn’t that make a great book title? LOL



To make the most of the short few hours I had for exploration, a drive of approximately 55 miles to the Golden Triangle border town of Mae Sai was necessary (a city which remained completely isolated from the world until the 1920s), and by 9am, I was crossing the border bridge and entering the town of Ta Chi Lek. First up was a drive around this small border town by motorized rickshaw or Tuk Tuk, as they are known in this part of the world. It’s a glorified lawn mower with a padded seat and roof and naturally no muffler. There is little difference between the two towns but that’s not surprising really, considering there is less than 400 yards between the two! Leaving the Tuk Tuk for the first stop at the local market – what an experience - everything from fruit to flowers, meat to medicines and just about anything else you can think of, all under one roof. I even got to photograph a fish beheading, after a customer had made his selection. Yes, I have the pix up on my blogsite for the less squeamish of my readers! After walking thru this market section, the Tuk Tuk met me at the far side and we were off to explore a small community of immigrants up on the hillside to see how their homes were constructed. Finished my sightseeing at a local orphanage where I bartered for 3 jars of natural facial mud made from local tree bark – they started at 100 baht (approximately $2.77) and I ended up paying 60 baht instead ($1.67) and of course, a boatload of photographs. Around lunchtime it was time to return to Thailand. and lunch at a local hotel, just a couple of blocks from the border. Definitely a whistle-stop tour of this mysterious country, but at least I do have yet another stamp in my passport.



It was time for lunch and another thrilling ride on a glorified lawn mower, brought me to a hillside backpacker restaurant/camp just a short distance from Chiang Rai. Here I got to dine on grilled chicken, glass noodles and rice. I don’t know what this place uses to season the chicken, but it was beyond delicious. Imagine being in the back of beyond, miles from what we laughingly call western civilization, in the middle of tapioca plantations, rice paddies and banana trees, eating the best grilled chicken ever – how’s that for living life to the fullest, I ask ya?



The mercury had climbed to the lower 80’s but dark clouds were gathering on the horizon. I half expected it to begin raining by the time I arrived dockside to spend a couple of hours cruising on the mighty MeKong River and making another quickie stop in yet a third country – Laos, on Done Sao Island….as you can see, I’m hitting all the high spots of the Triangle on this trip! I passed on visiting the local Opium Museum as I figured they weren’t offering any samples. This had been a fully-packed day of sightseeing in the northern section of Thailand and I was more than ready to head back to the villa and spend another wonderful night in that super comfy bed.



Awoke to yet another day in paradise and this morning’s agenda is for a visit to the famous Hill Tribes of northern Thailand in Mae Salong. Since most are rural and poor, any economically-uplifting opportunities are welcomed. Most of the hill tribes migrated into the region during the past 100 years from the Asian interior and have largely preserved their traditional ways, making them a fascinating cultural study. They prefer living above 3,000’, and shy away from the outside world.



A little bit of history:



There are seven broad hill tribe groupings: Karen, Lahu, Hmong, Lisu, Akha, Mien, and Padaung. However, within these categories, there are sub-categories and clans that further divide the groups. Each hill tribe has its own customs, language, dress and spiritual beliefs and this is sometimes true even of the numerous sub-categories within one hill tribe. For example, the Green Hmong and White Hmong speak in different and distinct dialects and dress differently. The hill tribes are most distinctly recognized for their colorful and unique costume, which they continue to wear daily when they know tourist groups are headed their way!



Most of the hill tribes living in the remote upland areas practice subsistence farming. They were pretty much left alone until the 1950s, when the increase in their numbers, extreme poverty, statelessness and threat of insurgency forced the government to form a National Committee for Hill Tribes.



Opium cultivation was a major source of income for many of the hill tribes and the government worked hard to eradicate this cultivation by successfully substituting it with other cash crops, such as cabbages and fruits. This is known as the Royal Project, initiated by King Rama IX, and commended internationally for its success. However, as is the case with any minority groups, hill tribes have issues with citizenship, conforming to mainstream Thai society and the loss of their indigenous customs and languages. Furthermore, their placement at the center of the lucrative drug trafficking along the Myanmar border, has often put them in compromising positions. These are all difficult issues faced by both the hill tribe people and the Thai government.



Karen - Population: approximately 300,000, Origin: Myanmar
This is the largest of the minority groups and many of the Karen were converted to Christianity by the missionaries, with some tribes still being Buddhist. Within the Karen, there are three main sub-groups: White Karen or Sgaw, Black Karen or Pgo, and Red Karen or Kayah.



The Karen wear woven V-neck tunics of various natural colors and turbans. Unmarried women wear distinctive long white V-neck tunics. The Karen occupy lowland areas, engaging in agriculture, including rice cultivation. They are also skilled weavers and the most environmentally conscious of the hill tribes – practicing crop rotation, thus preserving the forest.



Hmong - Population: approximately 124,000, Origin: Yunnan
This is the second-largest hill tribe group and is sometimes referred to as Meo. They are best known for their intricate embroidery. Known to be fiercely independent and with nomadic tendencies, they sided with communist rebels in Thailand in the 1970s, while the Hmong of Laos sided with the US during the Vietnam and Laos wars – both seeking self-determination.



The Hmong are sub-divided into White Hmong and Green Hmong. The Green Hmong are the most populous in Thailand and their women wear heavily embroidered, very tightly pleated skirts. The men wear baggy black pants with various levels of bright embroidery along the cuffs and seams. The Hmong have settled in the province of Chiang Mai. Their succession is patrilineal and polygamy is widely practiced.







Lahu - Population: approximately 73,000, Origin: Yunnan, Myanmar
Also known as Musor, the Lahu are concentrated near the Burmese border and have five sub-groupings: Red Lahu, Yellow Lahu, Black Lahu, White Lahu and Lahu Sheleh. The Black Lahu is the largest sub-grouping, making up close to 80%!o(MISSING)f the Lahu population. The women wear very distinctive black and red jackets and skirts and the men wear baggy green or blue pants. They have a reputation as excellent hunters, and survive off vegetable cultivation, with some supplementing this meagre income with opium production.



Akha - Population: approximately 50,000, Origin: Tibet / Myanmar
The Akha are among the most down-trodden and often most impoverished of the hill tribes, resisting assimilation into mainstream Thai culture. They are, however, the most fascinating and colorful of the hill tribes and can easily be visited, particularly in Chiang Rai province where many reside. Many villages have been converted to Christianity, though some observers decry this as a dilution of their culture.



The Akha have a unique and rich oral literature tradition, in which they can recite their ancestors back numerous generations. The Akha came to Thailand in the early 20th century, mainly due to their persecution in Burma. The women wear very plain indigo died shirts, which are in turn adorned with all kinds of eye-catching paraphernalia, such as coins, beads, shells, etc. The women are also very visible by their ornate headdress adorned with silver, and many can be seen at the night bazaar hawking their intricate silver jewelry. Every year the Akha have a unique swing festival. Opium is still used among this tribe.



Mien - Population: approximately 40,000, Origin: Central China
Also known as the Yao, they are distant linguistic relatives of the Hmong and originated from China. Because of this, many of the older Mien can still write Chinese, and many display distinctive Chinese facial features. Being the smallest group, the Mien live in isolated villages mostly in and around Chiang Rai. The Mien women are known for the long black jackets that are adorned with pom-pom like red trim. They are skilled embroiderers and silversmiths.



Lisu - Population: approximately 28,000, Origin: Tibet / Yunnan
The Lisu women are distinguished by their brightly colored tunics, worn over long pants; some of the older generation continue to wear tasseled turbans on their heads. Occupying villages above 3,000’, they keep livestock and cultivate corn and vegetables. Unlike other hill tribes, they don’t usually live in stilted houses. The Lisu men and women are also recognized as some of the most physically attractive of the hill tribes and marriage outside of their tribe is not uncommon.



Padaung - Population: marginal, Origin: Thailand
The Padaung are a sub-group of the Shan, who aren’t entirely considered minorities as they have always occupied the areas of northwest Thailand and the Shan states of Myanmar. The Shan speak a dialect similar to Thai and are even known as Thai Yai, having been assimilated into Thai culture.



The Padaung attract many curious visitors on account of their long-necked women. A tradition of beautifying women by adding brass rings to their necks has been preserved largely for generating tourism. Although the neck appears cruelly elongated, it is the collarbone which has been depressed rather than the stretching and weakening of the neck.



I spent a couple of hours walking thru the village and the homes of these Hill Tribes, meeting the locals, taking photographs and even getting to barter once more. This time I was able to pick up 3 beautiful handmade shoulder bags which were priced originally at 700 baht (approximately $19.44) and I paid 400 baht ($11.11). This was definitely a highlight of trip so far – I highly recommend this to anyone considering a trip to northern Thailand.



Now my feet are headed back south to Thailand’s northern capital, Chiang Mai, which is an escape from the whirlwind pace of life of its southern rival. Despite the constant arrival of planes and trains full of sightseers, the former seat of the Lanna kingdom is still blissfully calm and laid-back. This is a place to relax after the chaos of Bangkok and recharge batteries with fabulous food and leisurely wandering. If you don't want to participate in the vast array of activities on offer, just stroll around the backstreets, and discover a city that is still firmly Thai in its aspect, atmosphere, and attitude.



Nestled amongst forested foothills, Chiang Mai is much older than it first appears. During the city's medieval heyday, almost everything was made of teak hauled by elephant from the surrounding rainforest. The monasteries still remain, centered on ancient brick stupas in a remarkable range of shapes and styles, but the gaps between them have been filled in with modern Thai houses and traveler hotels. Despite this, the historic center of Chiang Mai still feels overwhelmingly residential, more like a sleepy country town than a bustling capital.



A sprawling modern city has grown up around ancient Chiang Mai, ringed by a tangle of superhighways, but if you drive in a straight line in any direction, you'll soon find yourself in the lush green countryside. A short ride by motorcycle or chartered 'red truck', will deliver you to pristine rainforest reserves, churning waterfalls, bubbling hot springs and peaceful country villages – as well as a host of adventure camps, elephant sanctuaries and souvenir markets.



When first arriving in Chiang Mai’s downtown section, the famous Night Market hits you like a slap in the face. Nothing really gets going until around 6pm and then it’s full steam ahead to midnight every night of the week. In the middle of this market is where I will be hanging out at Le Meridien Hotel for the next 3 nights, while I explore what this fascinating town has to say for itself. I can’t wait. I was too tired to explore the market on the first night, so I settled for a trip to the nearby Burger King for a Whopper and fries….I’ve had all I can handle of Thai buffets for a while – I was craving a burger to the nth degree!



After a wonderful night’s sleep – probably the best I’ve have since arriving in Southeast Asia – I made my way downstairs to check out the breakfast buffet. Excellent sour yogurt and plenty of fresh fruit, that plus an omelet and fresh-ground coffee set my day up right. Today’s agenda has a strong possibility of being yet another outstanding highlight of my Thailand trip – a visit to the Thai Elephant Kingdom, located about an hour outside of Chiang Mai. This ideal location high in the hills, is basically a rescue sanctuary for injured/sick/old pachyderms who simply needed someone to care enough to give them a home and make their lives worth living – what intelligent animal wouldn’t want all of that, including human ones? It was founded approximately five years ago, with the rescue of five elephants – the current population stands at 32. No government subsidiaries, no private donations raised or sought, it is now self-sustaining with tourist funds. For the best part of an entire morning, I got to watch while these delightful and highly-intelligent mammals took a bath in the nearby stream, answer to their individual names when called and interact with the tourists face-to-face. What a tactile thrill to stroke those incredible trunks, so sensitive they can pick up the smallest item from a flat surface. The strong bond between the elephants and their mahouts (trainers) is a lifelong commitment – the two grow up together and spend much of their waking moments as a team. So deep is this bond that should the mahout die first (highly likely as elephants can live to at least 80 years of age and longer), the elephant will not bond with another, and the only way to have it accept a second trainer, is have him wear the deceased mahout’s jacket. Elephants have poor eyesight, but an exceptional sense of smell.



One of the elephants is approximately 10 months pregnant with another 8 to 12 months to go before delivery. There is a full-time vet on staff and regular examinations are performed to ensure good health. What I really liked about this place is the “natural habitat” feel. The elephants aren’t performing on stage by painting, or kicking a ball around to entertain an audience. They are interacting with us as equals – they allow us to assist in their bathing routines, prepare sticky-rice balls with added vitamins and minerals as treats, and when they recognize this food is ready, they saunter over and graciously allow us to hand feed them! They really are the most magnificent creatures – gentle giants in a perfect setting. The photo ops during this incredible morning were numerous and you will find some outstanding pictures on my blogsite.



Lunchtime rolled around and it was off to dine for the umpteenth time on Thai buffet at the Bai Orchid and Butterfly restaurant. I must admit the vegetable tempura was better than average and so were the Pad Thai noodles, but the rest was so-so. Tried something different, by entertaining a tent-like structure containing orchids and hundreds of brilliantly-hued butterflies fluttering around my head. This is very popular with a variety of group tours and the parking lot was crammed with those massive buses blocking everyone from going anywhere!



I’ve been on the road for more than 3 weeks now, and after rotating my wardrobe at least 4 times, it’s way past time for a cleaning. If I don’t, my jeans will arise from my luggage and walk themselves to the nearest washing machine. Being in a 5-star hotel, in-house laundry and dry cleaning costs are thru the roof and priced by the piece. As many of my long-time readers know, I’m as tight as a duck’s ass and that’s water tight, so local laundry it is. A recommendation from a local led me to a place less than 500 yards from the hotel and what a pleasant surprise awaited. Here laundry is calculated on weight not piece, and other than denim jeans, most of my clothing was lightweight, resulting in a total of 4.9 kilos (almost 12lbs). For a price of 60 baht per kilo, my entire bag of dirty clothes would be washed, ironed, folded and returned to the hotel by 4pm the next day - and my bill for all this, you ask? 270 baht ($7.50), compared to an approximate total of $80+ at Le Meridien! Talk about a bargain.



My evening adventure this time was a traditional Thai massage and what better place for this, than at one of the top five spas in Chiang Mai. Pimantip Spa is located less than 600’ from the airport entrance, making it a perfect destination for all arriving and departing passengers. Free shuttle transportation is provided within the central city area.



The word "Pimantip" is combined from two Thai words: "piman" meaning heaven, and "tip" meaning magical. The building is exquisitely decorated inside and out, designed to evoke a sensation of peace, calm and a promise of being pampered to the nth degree. The spa adjoins a restaurant but I’m here to be pummeled and prodded, not to eat.



Immediately greeted at the door by elegantly-gowned masseuses, I was invited to sit in the lobby while being served a cool glass of plant-based cordial, along with an icy hand towel to refresh face and hands. Next, a questionnaire of my preferences for mild/medium/firm massage application – being the brave soul I am, I ticked “firm” - what the hell, might as well go all in, right? Having affirmed I have no allergies to any specific topical products (Pimantip uses Prann products exclusively, one of the best aromatic product manufacturers in Thailand, containing 100% natural active ingredients, with no artificial fragrances, alcohol free and pure essential oils only). Then I’m introduced to my personal masseuse who takes me by the hand to the foot bath area. Here my feet and lower legs are scrubbed with light abrasive nut resin to remove dirt and dead skin cells, then slipping tired and aching feet into soft, deep pile spa slippers. She leads me to a semi-private room where four padded pallets are separated by curtains forming 4 working areas (think hospital bed with surrounding curtains – you get the general idea). I’m asked to remove all clothing and handed a Thai-style white blouse (really pretty, I will be using this in the future as a vest), and short-legged blue peasant pants, tied at the waist.



Now the fun begins. Face down on this pallet, she begins at the soles of my feet and actually walks herself on hands and knees up the length of my body – and this was just the beginning of the best massage experience ever. What a sensation and it hurt – but it hurts so good and within seconds, I felt my muscles warming and relaxing under her expert administrations. For the next hour, she pummels, she pushes, she digs in and she works virtually every muscle possible – she even found places I didn’t know I had places, and she worked those too! I almost fell asleep in spite of the discomfort sometimes evoked, especially around back and shoulders, but the sheer bliss of her foot and hand massage is beyond belief. I want this entire procedure every day for the rest of my natural life, and I ain’t kidding! She finished with a neck, head, face and shoulders rub and when the sands of the one-hour clock ran out, I was so relaxed I could barely stand up without wobbling.



Back in the lobby, I’m handed a cup of steaming jasmine tea, a couple of almond cookies to complete my fabulous evening at Pimantip. The menu listing of available services is extensive, and include both complete spa packages and ala carte items, all priced appropriately. The minimum time is 60 minutes per appointment and go as high as 4 hours. Couples can have massage services together. Also available are hand and feet nail polish applications, hair wash and styling and body scrubs, but why bother with those which can be obtained anywhere. This place excels in massage – that’s why you need to come here – this is a massage experience for the ages. Their advertising slogan “we aim to pamper you into the sublime of revitalization” lives up to the hype. It's the perfect place where you can indulge in a luxurious setting with professionally-trained therapists and fine spa products. Come on in and be totally spoiled – I did.



By the time I returned to the hotel I was more than ready to collapse and sleep like the dead, but decided first I wanted to cap off the day with a cappuccino. In the lobby is the Latitude 18 Coffee Bar serving the usual “exotic” coffees at ridiculously inflated prices. But being the cheap skate you know me to be, I had complimentary coupons – no surprise there, huh? It was the perfect way to end a perfect day….bring on the next one.



My last full day here in Thailand, what to do, what to do? I awoke late and first enjoyed the buffet breakfast downstairs. I fly again tomorrow, so today is about completing my exploration of this magical city and probably getting a foot massage. That was included in last night’s event but only lasted around 15 minutes – I’m thinking at least an hour or more for today. Have a recommendation for a local place just around the corner – just 150 baht for 60 minutes, which is a steal.



It’s New Year’s Eve and I intend to mingle in the streets of the Night Market as midnight approaches. No idea what this city has planned, but no doubt it will be entertaining. Dinner will be in the home of a local family who will host me for yet more Thai food (oh joy!) but at least the conversation should be stimulating, if nothing else. I have had such a delightful time here, but then, Thailand never fails to impress.



Another year of fabulous traveling comes to a close….where will I roam in 2017? Only time and this travel blog will tell! Happy New Year to all my readers – I will probably celebrate it before you do, given the vast time zone difference!



Stay tuned….cheers

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