Bangkok, take two

---

20/11/2015. Day 2

AM - Another very satisfying sleep.

So, a quick note on day 1! - After arriving in Wongwian Yai, using the sky train from the airport to the west of the river; I had spent my time sleeping, napping, imagining getting up, and napping some more. That was a lot of winks!

There was some time to have a walk through the local markets and meet the river; to head more central, wander and pop my head into a rock bar in Siam; and to stumble across a car park maze of food stalls, where my eyes were drawn in by the lights and colored sauce tubes of 'bread zone!' - my choice was cinammon, very nice!

So, take two. Once sleep was shaken off (and damn it had felt good!) I jumped back on the BTS and metro. They already felt very familiar. I knew the lines and the way through stations (though i'm no quick learner here, almost everyone takes it with ease). You can also always follow the sky's concrete race track- you can move through Bangkok life and look up to know you are not far off a stop.

First off I headed to the central train station Hualamphong - it's commonly spoke about as being a 'chaotic' type, but it really wasn't, maybe it's misunderstood. The aim was to pick up some advanced rail tickets (I know, organised huh) to Pak Chong in the north east from Ayutthaya, which'll be over the king's birthday & father's day holiday. The staff were really helpful and together we scribbled on timetables. As it turned out, I actually need to get this on the day, but I picked up a tasty coconut bun and got to see the bustling, key station that would take the people I could see to northern cities, small towns and even new countries.

The streets around here are packed with life, both movement and stillness, and that's what everyone says about Bangkok isn't it. It is true, there are faces and advertising places; roars of engines and pushcart kitchens; kerb sitters and selfie takers; tall trees and hanging lights at most turns of your head. It can be like watching tennis matches played around a cube that you're in the middle of - if you decide to look at everything. It's not overwhelming as such, it just is.

I headed back down to Saphan Taksin to jump on the popular express boats and move up the Chao Phraya River.
This was fun! The boats were fast, zig-zagging over the river where they are greeted inward with bird like calls from guard whistles. I liked these sounds. I generally spent the time between each stop leaning out around the back of the boat, hair swept and eyes big as I took in the sights.. so the calls gave me a chance to suss where I was and if I wanted to jump off. I learnt to be alert at the bird call, to prepare and move before the stream of oncoming people. Before this, I found myself making a little leap off the back to make my first stop, to the 'tut-tut' eyes off the waiting guard.. although my best naughty kid expression did then get a smile.

The highlights of the boating were the sunset, Wat Pho, and then getting caught out by the rain.

Wat Pho is the oldest temple in Bangkok and reflects thai-Chinese style. The temple was built in the 17th century, and housed some of the saved pieces of the old, Burmese-defeated capital of Ayutthaya, as this new capital was being formed.
Wat Pho was a gorgeous maze - smaller doorways through doorways, rows of golden Buddhas revealed, shuffling decks of colourful roof tiles and layers of intricacy - from the door knobs to the inner walls to the towering pagodas. Each new way of the temple grotto was greeted with stone figures - Chinese rock giants. Some seemed welcoming and knowing, almost tipping their hats to you - 'in you go'; some were stern, brandishing weapons proudly- 'okay, I'll go slow'; and others simply mysterious. I later learnt these different figures reflected various Chinese positions, from war lord to philosopher, entertainer to Marco Polo.

To top it off the sun was coming down, creating dramatic silhouettes and the pagodas were lit up beautifully.
Over the river the sunset was the background to the distinguished Wat Arun 'temple of dawn'. The temple is currently under renovation but the scaffolding didn't take away it's presence.

Within one of the halls of Wat Pho lies an enormous statue of the famous reclining Buddha (where he is entering 'nirvana after death'), this was really something. Each new golden body part you walked past and made out was greeted with your thought that 'woah that's a big.. ' Whilst the murals along the hall depicted detailed scenes of the history and disciplines of Buddhism, ancient weapons and zodiac signs. There was also the assembly hall whose insides sparkled out through the door frame- a large golden Buddha, seated high and surrounded with decoration. Stepping into the frame, it was a lovely quiet spot to sit in a while and just enjoy (incense filled the room).

The sky was getting ever darker, I think I knew exactly what was going to happen, but I kept wandering through the grounds, eager to touch all bases before home. Then it rattled it down! I like seeing others as we find our ways in the rain - to run, to dither back and forth, perhaps to then run on.. to shelter, to stay? Some go for temporary umbrellas - bags, food boxes, maps.. Rain, the great equaliser. I took to shelter, and watched it out.
After making it to the nearest boat stop, I stayed a while in the accompanying hut, drank a Singha beer and watched the boats come and go a little. Getting a boat through night time Bangkok, with lights either side and often way upward, was great. Onto home, grabbing a steamed pork bun for supper.

I have had but a little taste of Bangkok, and many winks of sleep. I would definitely come back, later in the trip perhaps - to explore the thonburi canals, go to some bars I've been recommended (thanks Foster!), continue up on the boats and to visit the national museums.

Next up is Kanchanaburi. When I began researching this quickly became a place I was so keen to go. I like rivers, mountains, history.. so I'm very much looking forward to meeting the River Kwai.

---