karmic law

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despite all the information packed guide-books, tourist maps, and information kiosks, its a travelers fate to inevitably get lost every once and awhile. the term 'lost' can apply to a variety of confused logistical states, including; needing a reassuring nod that one is plugging along in the correct direction, having a semblance of an idea about area & scope - but hard-pressed as to which direction to proceed, and the ultimate state of oblivion i.e.: not having the faintest idea where one is.

i would be remiss to say that within the past 7 months of travel i have not hit all of these stages (at least once or twice). usually the hours and sometimes days following the arrival to a new city or town can be a combination of bliss in having a surround-sound of all things "new and intriguing" - clashed with moments of confusion trying to orientate and locate the supposedly obvious main landmarks.

hence was the case upon my arrival off the bus into the little town of nakhon pathom, about 56km west of Bangkok. the town is typically an afternoon stop for many of the packaged tourist trips from Bangkok. its main attraction is an enormous wat or chedi (Buddhist monastery) that is located in the middle of a sprawling compound, home to two museums, a little stream, and Buddhist artifacts, sculptures and statues. having about two weeks to occupy in bangkok before an anticipated visit from a good friend working in hong kong, i had decided to visit nakhon pathom on my own, as part of a little "weekend trip" from the city life of Bangkok.

after diligently viewing the chedi and all surrounding structures (one week in bangkok and you are an expert in wat-viewing), i made my way to the nearest compound gate, guidebook in hand (sometimes you can't help but be the glaring tourist), and proceeded to try to locate the one hotel that was suggested as a nice place to spend the night.

due to the small nature of the town, as well as the fact that most tourists visit as part of an organized tourist package, the information provided on nakhon pathom was minimal at best. The only thing i had to go by was to start walking from the chedi's 'southern gate'. Simple enough if you have a compass, or if there is an english speaking guide anywhere in the vicinity. but all of the four of the elaborately mosaiced chedi gates look surprisingly similar to the ordinary observer, with none sporting a handy weather-vane or blinking neon "amy, exit here!" sign.

not to be deterred and having the confidence of 7 months of foreign navigation under my belt, plus an open-ended itinerary for the afternoon - i proceeded to walk out one gate, around the neighboring streets, back in the same gate (having not found any sightings for the little hotel), around to the next gate, out to the neighboring streets ...no luck, back in the gate, around to the next gate, etc... i lasted for a good 35 minutes of this mouse in a maze mentality, before the glaring heat of the sun and growing hunger pains started to take their toll. so, dutifully following the obvious next step in the hierarchy of direction-less travelers: seek help.

(the next scene aptly encompasses so many of the subtle, yet consistent, nuances of travel in south-east asia)

i walked up to a group of men standing outside one of the chedi gates near 3 or 4 motorbikes. SE asia has a multitude of transit options - most comprised of two wheeled motor vehicles - the most western version being the moped/motorbike. these are the predominate mode of transport for most locals, and also sometimes used as taxi's as well. being a small town and far enough away from the worn in tourist trails of Bangkok, English is hard to come by. this is actually a very redeeming factor of the town, as it offers a much more authentic version of daily thai life and culture. unfortunately, my attempts of adding a few thai phrases to my vocabulary had been stunted after an arduous time of mastering 'hello', 'goodbye', and 'thank-you'. as my guidebook gently points out: thai is a 'tonal' language. an apropos example: the sentance "mai mai mai mai" (missing only various accents to indicate the tonality) means: "new wood burns, doesn't it?"

Doesn’t incite much linguistic confidence for the newbee ;-)

this makes you feel slightly better about not making a better effort with the language - but doesn't help much when negotiating directions.

anyway. the group of men were instantly helpful in attempting to figure out what i was asking and where i was trying to go. we had a few rounds of me making gestures to the guidebook paragraph and sentence about the hotel, along with stunted versions of saying the hotel name out loud and repeating "chedi southern gate?", which ultimately only made ME feel better - as their English was about as good as my thai and reading any written words in english was futile for them, since thai technically has its own alphabet (characters). so, i pointed and garbled versions of 'helpful' words...and they in turn, took turns staring studiously at my guidebook, tracing the sentances with their fingertips and having a lively and at times, fierce discussion between themselves in thai. (i can only imagine the options for some of their discourse - and i hope that at least some of it touched on the humorous element of the situation.) however, displaying the typically gracious and altruistic qualities of thai character - they continued the debate and scrutiny of the guidebook until finally, after calling over a helpful friend from across the street - we hit an understanding and i was motioned to get on one of the motorbikes to be taken to the hotel.

i am not sure where my fear of motorbikes came from, but in the hierarchy of motorized vehicles, they come in somewhere near the bottom. Maybe a rung above a racecar. Nevertheless, when in Thailand, right? So with my small day pack strapped on my back and my big “day purse” swung over my shoulder, I climbed on the back of the bike - skirt and all - and said a silent prayer to the motorbike gods. As we took off, buzzing down the street - I realized that although I had seen a zillion motorbikes in the past 10 days , I hadn’t really paid much attention to the passenger etiquette. As the food-processor buzz of the bike increased in volume, I fought the involuntary urge to clasp my arms around this little thai mans waist and hold on for dear life. Instead, having a feeling that would be against passenger protocol, I compromised on a tea-cup like hold with my fingers, onto each of the man’s shoulders. And way we went! It was actually kind of fun. The type of ride that makes you want to go “weeeeeeeee!” the whole way.

alas, we did not go much farther than traversing back through the interior parking lot of the chedi enclosure. and about 3 minutes after take off, we arrived at the original gate I had started from, which was, as it turns out - directly across the street and 10 yards to the right....of the little hotel.

Now seriously, would it really have been anywhere else?!?

i dismounted with smiles and thank you's and went in to check in for the night.

After getting settled (throwing my backpack on the bed), I made a foray back out to the neighborhood streets to search out a lunchtime meal. Thailand is full of street side food carts that in my opinion are the best way to sample local flavors and budget minded concoctions. The carts tend to be draped in lemongrass, onions, and other fresh local vegetables - or a particular type of foreign looking meat dangling from the carts overhang. Usually the individual carts will specialize in noodles, rice or meat dishes.

After a bit of meandering, I choose a busy stall with a few umbrellaed tables scattered around, filled with locals. Always a good sign. A sweet, elderly thai woman was behing the cart maning the woks and pots. I walked a few steps towards the stall, catching her eye and indicating the interest for food with a big smile and nod. She smiled back and mumbled something that sounded like it had the word ‘rice’ somewhere in the middle of the phonetic sequence. Hearing an amenable word, I nodded continuously repeating rice and throwing in a qeustioning "Chicken?", just for kicks. Feeling like the food gods had bestowed a universal connection and understanding, we both smiled and I sat down at the only available table while she went back to the woks.

Either she’s seen a few foreigners in her day, or just has a knack with what works for a western palate. (i'd put money on both) And within what seemed like less than a minute, a steaming plate of rice, fresh vegetables, and boiled chicken bits was presented before me , complete with a lime wedge garnish and little clay bowl of green Chile sauce (spicy!). My stomach was doing a standing ovation. She then offered me a big dripping bottle of cold, spring water and even pulled over a little stool to place my backpack on so it wouldn’t get soiled sitting on the pavement. Bless Her!

Stomach satiated and feeling revived with some water and shade, I proceeded to watch the busy activity of the street. Bicycles floating by carrying front baskets loaded with fresh veggies and bagged goods. Motorcycles zipping this way and that, transporting an average of three passengers, usually one being a toddler seated up front between moms belly and the handlebars. Meat carts, veggie carts, and overflowing wheelbarrows being pushed here and there. An intermittent bus rumbling through. The gentle and graceful walk of saffron robed Buddhist monks, passing in clumps of two or three. A gaggle of school children in uniform and totting a few books in hand, making their way home from a day in the classroom. And the mixed smells of steaming food, the oppressive heat, pollution, vinegar, and lemongrass heavy in the air.

I believe that life sends little omens or ‘helpers’ when you are dire need of a little pick me up, but least expecting it. Maybe its part of the karmic law that is intrinsic to Theravada Buddhism, the predominate belief across south East Asia. Or maybe just one of the spirit gods giving a little shout out. either way, i have begun to consciously look for little ways each day to give little merrits back, and continue the sharing of small pleasures and surprises.

I also spent a few days in the town of kanchanaburi, famous for being nestled on the banks of the river kwai and home to the infamous "bridge over the river kwai". there is a really great museum in kanchanaburi called the thailand-burma railway centre that gives a good overview on the horrifying history of the "Death Railway" and the contributing factors for the 100,000 POW deaths. During WWII, the japanese military wanted to secure a land route linking their newly acquired territories of burma and singapore. they used allied POW's from England, austrailia, america, thailand, and holland - as well as poor malaysian and indian farm workers - to preform the gruesome task of constructing the 415 kilometre route. Due to horrible terrain conditions and logistics, no heavy machinery or modern-day tactics could be used to bring in or build up the tracks - all having to be done by hand and thru the imaginative use of animals and creative wood contraptions. the men were kept in very poor conditions, and coupled with the tiring days, overall weak health conditions, and climate factors creating a pitree dish for malaria and cholera - workers died by the droves. it was a humbling and unimaginable walk through history and the 'causualities' of war.

the last stop on the way back to bangkok was at the touristy floating markets - where goods and food are still "sold" via dug out canoes and wooden boats. unfortunately, nowadays the custom and market is mainly still kept up for the plight of camera snapping tourists - but with a little imagination you can picture what it must have been like.

and now...back to the buddha's, wats, shopping and bustle of bangkok!

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Photos

reclining buddha
the infamous reclining buddha at wat pho, one of the four main positions sybolizing their passage into enlightenment. reclining represents his passage into nirvana.

mosaiced chedi's
wat phra kaeo and the grand palace

kancahnaburi war cemetery
6,982 POW graves lie in one of the two war cemeteries in kancahnaburi. 38 POW's died for each kilometre of track laid on the death railway.

view of phra pathom chedi
from outside my hotel

mitapaisal hotel
no wonder i had a hard time picking it out of the crowd.

Comments

[Mark]

motorbike mania
Hey Amy, it's been great reading about your adventures. If you're heading off to Vietnam, get ready for some REAL motorbike traffic...it makes driving in Thailand look tame. Just a tip...instead of holding onto the driver, grab onto the back part of the motorbike's seat ...most have handles back there. It may take some time to get used to it, but it's the best way. Good luck on the rest of your trip...looking forward to hearing more.

[SailAwayWithMe]

keep the karma going
i could use some when i arrive.. gotta love being lost! keep on truckin'.