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Published: June 28th 2012
After leaving Koh Tao at 8am, we had a two hour ferry ride, a slight break for lunch and then an eight hour bus journey to get to Bangkok. Luckily the bus company knew that the majority of passengers were backpackers and dropped us off two streets down from the Khao San Road. After following the crowd past the street food stalls, foot massage parlours and American tourists feasting on fried insects we soon found our Hotel, the centrally located Khao San Grand Palace Hotel. First impressions of the hotel were good. The room, if a little small, was clean, with a decent sized bed, a/c, and a flat screen tv. The rooftop pool was an added bonus and we both enjoyed the thought of diving in to it at the end of a long day exploring the city. Both hungry after the long day, we dumped the bags and headed out for some street food. We both enjoyed Pad Thai and I had some barbecued chicken for about 40 pence.
First impressions of Bangkok were surprisingly good, after hearing so many stories (mainly from our rather incorrect guide book – I’m sure an e-mail will be coming their way
Chao Phraya River
Lovely riverside walk, looks cold but boy it was hot!in the near future), we were a little apprehensive to say the least. Yes its hot, sometimes smelly, congested and you sometimes get hassled to buy stuff (you can’t imagine the amount of suits I could have bought for a ‘very good price’) but on the whole we found it quite a pleasant city. The road next to the Khao San Road, is lovely with lots of al ’fresco bars and street food vendors and its lined with trees which are all decorated with fairy lights.
After a surprisingly good night sleep we set off to explore the city. After reading on the internet we could save money not getting a tuk-tuk and walking instead, we headed to the Choa Phraya river, took a left and walked along the riverfront in search of the Grand Palace. We were glad we did because after walking past the university, we found an amazing amulet market (amulets are small tablets which are said to ward off evil spirits and most Thai people carry at least one at all times) and some great street food stalls where we picked up some yummy sweet corn fritters for lunch. Soon we realised we had walked
past the Grand Palace and found ourselves at our nexted planned destination, Wat Pho, the reclining Buddha. Wat Pho is the oldest temple in Bangkok and is home to the awe inspiring big reclining Buddha which measures 14x16 metres. After enjoying the architecture and the free bottles of water we headed next door the Grand Palace.
The Grand Palace site is massive and we slowly walked round and explored the beautiful buildings. It is most famous for the Emerald Buddha. The Emerald Bhudda was originally found in northern Thailand in Chang Rai and was totally hidden because it was encased in plaster. Many people come here to pray and worship the Buddha. Unfortunately on the day we visited the emerald Buddha, the temple was closed to the public because due to a religious ceremony involving many stern looking and important military guests, but we could just make him out for the outside of the temple building .
Later that evening again we headed out for street food and ventured to a local Thai bar that I had read about on the internet. This place was great, it was a restaurant and bar which doubled up as an art
Wat Po
The Reclining Bhudda gallery and all the coolest of the cool Thai people went there. We sat on the candle lit roof terrace which had an amazing view of the lights of Bangkok and enjoyed a few cocktails.
The next morning after a terrible night’s sleep I woke up with a rather usual feeling hangover. I was feeling rather groggy to say the least. Our hotel room was located right above the ‘eye of the storm’ the Lucky Beer pub on the Khao San road and the music and partying went on late into the night/morning. Because of the late football kick offs, 1:45am, the revelling didn’t usually finish until 5, sometimes 6am. I tried to remember the previous evening’s events and think of how many beers and cocktails I had had. Had I been to the Lucky Beer Pub? Fighting through my hazy headache I remembered only having three beers and one cocktail ‘I must be getting old I thought’. Jane was being rather spritely and excitable, ready again to head out into the city and explore Chinatown. All I wanted to do was curl up and die, but not to let Jane down I thought to myself ‘man up, it
just a hangover it will pass’ and dragged myself into the shower. We again decided to walk to the river but this time we would get the local orange flag river boat from pier 13 down the river to Chinatown at pier 5. The river boats are the best and cheapest way to travel in Bangkok. A one way journey to any pier is 30 baht (around 60 pence). As were reached the river I started to think this was a very unusual hangover. Along with my headache and nausea, I had now started to experience flu like symptoms, I was going hot and cold, my body ached all over, especially my feet, which felt like my flip flops had suddenly turned into steel boots! Again I thought it would soon pass, so I didn’t say anything and we boarded the river boat. As we walked onto the crowded boat and stood near the side at the back we heard somebody say ‘hello’ to us in a European accent. It took my brain about ten seconds to realise it was the same German couple who we had shared the ‘death boat’ with on the way to Koh Phangan. What were
the chances of that; out of all the people in Thailand we had walked onto the same boat with the same people we had previously shared a near death nautical experience. Both couples laughed about it and I thought to myself ’not again, not today’. Luckily the Bangkok river boats are very safe and we soon hopped off at the Chinatown peir. Now, I’m sure Chinatown is a great place, the sights, the sounds, the smells, the hustle and bustle, the little streets, the quirky shops and the street food sellers trying to get you to eat birds nest soup, however all I could concentrate on was trying not to be sick. My legs had gone to jelly and my mind was searching for any sensible place which I could go if I needed to vomit. I told Jane I was not feeling too good and asked her if we could find a café or something which had a toilet ASAP. She agreed and we continued to walk through the crowded streets intent on finding somewhere. Forty five minutes later we still hadn’t found anywhere and things had got so bad that I had to sit at the side of
the road on the kerb. I somehow got some strength up and we found a lovely little temple where I thought we could take some rest bite in the shade and maybe they may have a toilet I could use. After exploring the temple thoroughly I soon realised that monks obviously are’ too cool for school’ to excrete body fluids on religious site and I again I found myself sitting on the floor praying for help. After not receiving any divine assistance we continued down the road a little further and luckily we found a little Chinese café which we stopped at so I could use the facilities, maybe my prayers had been answered. We stayed there an hour until thought I was feeling a little better and we again headed off into the crowded streets of Chinatown. I was wrong…. and I was soon asking Jane if we could get a taxi back to the hotel. Jane ever the one to try and save cash, quickly ushered me back onto the cheap crowded river boat and we walked back to the Khao San Road in the afternoon heat. Instead of the planned beers and watching England I spent the
evening in bed trying to sleep off my mystery illness.
The next day I was still not feeling great, but nothing compared to previous days visit to China-Hell. I told Jane I still wanted us to see the city so we headed out to see the new city of Bangkok and visited Siam Square. Siam Square is the commercial hub of the city with lots of smart new shopping centres. Being in shopping centres with no money to spend is very frustrating, especially when you can get a new pair if Levi’s for £40. However the toilet facilities are excellent which was good for me. We did find an amazing cake shop where we had melt in the middle chocolate pudding for lunch. My choice as I couldn’t face anymore street food.
On the Saturday I again was feeling even better so we got up early to visit Chucktuk Market. This place was the biggest market I have ever seen and believe me I got dragged round many a market as a child. It was so big you get given a map as you enter as you can easily get lost. It’s separated into sections, clothes, shoes, bags,
text stiles, gifts, home furnishings, art, food stalls, etc. there is even an exotic pets sections which luckily we didn’t find. We stayed six hours and my feet were killing. Jane said it was the best collection of vintage dress shops she has ever seen and she wished she’d have been able fill two suitcases. Most items cost 100 baht(2 quid) . We did buy, a well needed torch, an even more needed retro casio watch, I bought a new shirt and Jane bought just one vintage dress.
On our last night we went and got some more amazing street food which ‘thank Buddha’ I managed to keep in for a good few hours. :-)
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Beach Rats
Janeo & Paulnutwhip
I'd just like to add that if i'd known you were so poorly I would have quite happiy spent the day sunbathing and looking you!