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April 1st 2005
Published: April 1st 2005
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1st April 2005
Bangkok, Thailand.

Well, all amazingly good things must come to an end. I had to run back to Bangkok to try and get the prescription glasses, which I'd forgotten about, made. Koh Chang was absolutely brilliant. I spent the day after my last journal hanging out in the sun (now regretting that, my legs and face are very scary) and updating journal and then off to the sauna after 4pm.

I hadn't really thought that through, and when I got there was walked through the treatment etc and prices, and was a little weirded out by the idea of sitting in a room full of steam - being hot isn't exactly a problem here in Thailand, no assistance is needed. But anyway I was there, so spent the rest of the day wandering in and out of the sauna, having icy showers from a bamboo contraption, and later an hour or so of Thai massage. I'd meant to have a white-mud treatment for my sunburns, but realised too late that it was after 8pm and I'd missed the last taxi, so had to walk back. Bummer. But the sauna and all had been really great, very relaxing after I'd gotten my head around it - haha, I went in the first time only to hurry back out and track down the owner dude to ask him where the tubes were and how you were meant to breathe. But anyway, all in all a lovely day.

Then I spent that night hanging with Anna, swapping stories and such, and we took off to check out the scene down where the music could be heard playing at the Treetops Bungalows, which is where we'd both meant to stay before getting sidetracked. Big backpacker community there. Was nice.

Oh, before I forget I should mention the facilities at my place, the Sunset Bungalows. See attached pics. No western toilets, more's the pity, it's all traditional Thai, meaning squat toilets and showers where you scoop water out of a trough (which you share with the next room; if you get close to the water you can peer through and see how it continues into the next shower-room). It's all set in a big round stone building sectioned off into about five rooms, two toilets and three bathrooms. There's no roof, and was very suspicious about peepers, but the actual rooms are quite lovely, lots of foilage, and it's been built around the little trees and such rather than removing them. You go in and it's like little grottos. The toilets are a squat-version, though, as I mentioned, which you flush by scooping out pan of water from the nearby trough. That was a strain on my sensibilities. But the showers were surprisingly fun; it's exhilirating, being able to just splash water all over everything, the walls and the floor, and not worry about making a mess. At night you had to hurry, though, because there's no such thing as mozzie control.

Anyway, thought I'd share that. As I said, it was quite lovely after I'd gotten over the first five minutes of, you've got to be kidding.

So where was I? Oh, yes, much fun and lovely drinks and lovely company, and then unfortunately I had to leave the next day after a lovely brekkie with Anna, more chatter. The trip back was a strain; another 7-plus hours of what should be a 4 1/2 hour trip - and the bus was packed, every seat taken. But hey, I survived. Stayed the night in the Classic Inn on Khoa San Rd, which was recommended to me from somebody back home. Pretty nice, but noisy, and you wouldn't believe it but they come pounding on your door about half an hour before check-out time, screeching (yes, I swear it, screeching), "Room 309? You stay tonight? Yes? (silence, steps) Room 312? Hello? You stay tonight?" So, no, I won't be staying there much longer.

It was another little shock, coming back from the islands to this. It's so peaceful and beautiful out there. Now I have to contend with pushy hawkers and really quite rude Indian fortune-tellers and tailors. They're so pushy and insistent - and they're all lined up to attack you with their demands, one after the other. One even grabbed my arm! I got so pissed off this morning I started saying "leave me alone" quite crossly, and told one who accosted me AGAIN on the way back to the hotel with my laundry (for the second time in less than twenty minutes!), to "bugger off". I know, I know, but they really do deserve it.

So yay for Bangkok, but give me the islands. Oh, how I miss Koh Chang already. Mind you, I should bust a few myths here and now while I think of it. I can't speak for any island other than Koh Chang, but in the guide books they say that massages, accommodation, food, it's all cheaper in the islands. Well, massages aren''t, accommodation is roughly the same but feels so much more worth it because it's on a beach, and the price of food is still up to where you want to eat. But the islands - or island, at least - are just so relaxed and happy and free of pushy Indian tradesmen. I loved it. Must book in for at least a month in Thailand on my way home when this is all over.

Missing you all. Please write; nobody writes. Mongrels.


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