Bangkok I and Kanchanburi

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From Langkawi we fast-tracked straight to Bangkok, leaving the south for later. The epic journey involved two taxis, two buses, a crammed minibus and a ferry. For this first visit to the city we headed for the tourist mecca of Khao San - a bustling street of signs, stalls and ever-persistant touts. Despite our illnesses we managed to see a few sights and have us some fun. In fact, we both left with a favourable impression of the city which few travellers seem to share.

One of our best excursions started with a spontaneous decision to go for a wander, unburdened with cameras, maps or guides. We vaguely headed southeast, hoping to hit Chinatown. On this walk we met a genuinely friendly and chatty local (it's tempting to assume that all Thais are touts trying to extract your money). We walked through a quiet and peaceful park, before ambling down a street lined with shops selling vicious-looking guns. Most of the time, there were no other Westerners in sight. Eventually we did indeed reach Chinatown and returned via tuk-tuk, the driver laughing crazily the whole way. That evening we met up with a cousin of mine who happened to be in town at the same time, and we managed to enjoy a few drinks without feeling ill. A very good day.

Before heading back to the south we made a brief overnight stop in Kanchanburi, 2 1/2 hours' bus ride from Bangkok. This proved to be one of my favorite places of the trip so far. On the evening of our arrival we chillaxed at our splendid hostel, the Jolly Frog, making use of hammocks strung up in its beautiful garden. Later, we hit the characterful Beer Barrel bar, where we found fairly cheap beer, good company and... a pair of dumb ostriches. Bizarre and great fun.

The following morning was contrastingly sombre. After a walk around the Allied War Cemetary, we headed for the Railway Museum where inexplicably we seemed to be the only visitors. The museum told the history of the 'Death Railway', built from Burma to Thailand by prisoners of war and labourers under the cruel authority of the Japanese. All aspects of the railway's history was discussed, and it was clear that the material had been passionately researched by the museum's founder. Leaving the museum, we walked north for a gander at the railway's famous landmark, the Bridge Over the River Kwai., and even walked across it.

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Photos

Bridge Over the River Kwai
The most famous landmark of the Death Railway, whether or not it remains truly authentic. The bridge is still used by trains, but walking across is permitted. This isn't England!

Khao San Road
A famous sight in Bangkok, this shrine to tourism is good manic fun.

Grand Palace
Probably the premier attraction in Bangkok. The buildings were truly opulent, but the famous Emerald Buddha housed within was underwhelming.

Allied War Cemetary
Beautifully maintained, and very touching. Kanchanburi's excellent railway museum is located over the road.

Dragonfly
This insect was sitting on a motorbike saddle near our hostel in Kanchanburi.