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Published: August 15th 2005
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Royal Barge Figurehead
One of the many interesting figureheads on the Royal Barges. Bangkok has been notably described as the “Arsehole of Asia” and
“Cesspool” by others on Travelblog. After 48 hours I think these titles are a little unfair, but the Thai name - Krung Thep - translating to “City of Angels” - is a touch on the flattering side -maybe somewhere in the city, between the skyscrapers and the slow moving stinky rivers there maybe a real angel, but one thing is sure - there are plenty of girls who'll be your angel for one night for only 300 baht! and there are plenty of guys searching for angels. The sex tourism aspect of Thailand has been present ever since Heathrow Airport waiting lounge, chatting to a “business man” while waiting for a flight - “I love Thailand... a bottomless barrel of women who all think I look like Brad Pitt”, to the bars on Koh San Road where (some!) western guys you meet drinking will end the night extolling the virtues of the local prostitutes.
After an 11hr flight from London, I took the easy option, a cab to the center, should have taken the train, quicker and cheaper at rush hour. Arrived in Koh San Road about 6pm and
took the first vacant room I found. Freshened up and went out to wander the streets, looking for adventure. Koh San Road is the backpacker ghetto of Bangkok, but it's cheap, easy, and the backpackers every whim is catered for. Banana pancakes for breakfast 😊 Both sides are lined with guest houses, bars, shops selling everything from backpacks to cameras, and street traders selling DVDs and CDs, food, or tying scraping and twisting hair in to plaits or dreads.
Sitting at the bars a constantly passing crowd of people passes by, backpackers of every variety, locals equally varied, and more street traders - selling giant zipo lighters, tribal things from the north (the irritating wooden frog thing - chirp chirp) and the fish hat lady - all will approach you over and over and over, many traders identically dressed, selling the same merchandise - they blur - and the day or evening passes.
Tuk-tuk drivers shout for business - “Hey you, where you go?” - followed by hard bartering from 50 baht down to 10 for a whirlwind tour of many temples (70 baht = ~£1 = ~$2). I decided to walk, I like walking plus didn't want
Tuk-Tuk
"Hey you, where you go?" the hard sell of the many gem and suit shops that the tuk-tuk drivers drop you at in order to make commission (which is why they offer tours at 10 baht!). Despite walking the ever insistent Tuk-tuk drivers kept trying to flag me down, jumping out of their cabs and chasing me down the street.
“Hey you, where you go?” - “The standing Buddha” - “I take you there, only 20 baht!” - “It's only a block away, I'll walk thanks” - “I take you there, only 10 baht” - “I can see it! - I don't need a tuk-tuk” - “I take you there, only 5 baht...”
Which brings me on nicely to Buddhas, in Bangkok I've seen, sitting Buddhas, standing Buddhas, fat Buddhas, thin Buddhas, black Buddhas, white Buddhas, gold Buddhas, giant (45m) Buddhas and little tiny baby Buddhas, every temple has a thousand variations - and I've seen a fair few temples
Of the other attractions, the Royal Barges were well worth seeing, and walking through the residential parts of the city nearby was a welcome change to Koh San, and the Mountain of Gold was one of the more peaceful places I visited
The Queen of Thailand
Celebrated her birthday on the 11th (or 12th) - many happy returns :) - but really this was just a quick skip through Bangkok - but I will be back - it's a crossroads for all parts around here, and one of the better places to get Visas for India and China. I've made the decision to head south for this part of my journey, it's the dry season in Indonesia, and looping down and then up through the Philippines then back towards mainland South East Asia, to see the Temples of Angkor in the dry season.
Footnote:I made my pilgrimage to the Pig Shrine -
this should explain why
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Hi Ali...Will be in Pattaya as from the 2nd September so if you are about let me know