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Published: January 27th 2010
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I had to get out of the madness that is Bangkok. Don't misunderstand me- I really dig the big ol' city- but I felt the need to get into the country and see some more historical sites.
Luckily Ayuthaya is only about an hour and a half north by bus. It was great to see the bountiful rice paddies. Did you know that Thailand is the number one exporter of rice worldwide? Or that "bhat", the Thai currency, means "rice" in many South Asian languages?
This city is magical. My FairyGodMother was not joking when she told me I could spend days wandering aroudn the ruins. The city was the second capital of Thailand. The area is hemmed in by rivers, to protect against attack. Unfortunately, I was eventually conquered by the Burmesse, who burned the city to the ground.
Now it has a funky, friendly, semi-rural feel. Ancient temples are the tallest builings around. The locals seem surpsrisingly nonchalant about the slendor around them. I suppose as a native Seattlite, I can realte. However, we have nothing this (humanly) ancient in my homeland.
First we saw a temple built by the Burmesse conquers to celebrate their
victory. It was very large. However, on the main street to this temple is a huge statue of a Thai king who (many hundreds of years ago) had defeated the Burmese in battle. His monument was surronded by statues of rooster.
I spent yesterday wandering around town on foot. It takes about ten minutes to walk from my guesthouse to the first set of ruins. They are impressive, and, for now, very peaceful. Many of the Buddha images have been decapitated. This makes little sense to me, seeing how Burma was also a Buddhist nation. The ills of nationalism can run deep.
There is a beautiful park in the center of town. I noticed how the temple towers are reminisicnet of the many ant mounds scattered over the lawn. This got me thinking a thought which has been periodically occuring to me for many years:
(Virtually) every social activity that humans do which we think makes us special, are also done by ants.
Leaf-cutter ants farm fungus.
Some North American ant species protect aphids. In exchange, the herds of aphids give the ants a sugary "milk".
Ants have slavery. Some ant species will attack
another colony, kill the soldiers and queen, and take the workers off to labor for the agressor colony.
Ants have wars. Colonies of the same species will seek to complete wide out a rival settlement. This is different from monkeys or wolves, which also engage in communal violence. No mammals (besides humans) engage in total war, or genocide.
Ants have specializes social structures.
Ants have casinos.
OK, I made the last one up. Still, something to think about. No matter your theological beleifs (or lack thereof), you should remembe the lesson of the ants. They serve to remind us of.....something.
Some tourists were riding elephants.
I took a tuk-tuk to some temples outside of the natural city moat formed by two rivers. There I saw the largest Buddha in Thailand. I was surprised to see that it was kosher to take photos of this impressive (yet holy) figure. Outside of this main temple was a smaller one which showed something that demonstrates Thailand's fusion of cultures. There was a statue of Quan Lin, the Chinese mother of mercy diety, holding the trident of Shiva. India and China have already conquered the world, we just
don't realize it yet.
There was another temple, which celebrates a Thai king's victory over the Burmese. This triumph was achieved when the king himself engaged a Burmese prince in one-to-one Elephant combat. I cannot understand why such a bloody deed would be commemorated by the construction of many serene-looking Buddha states around a huge stupta. Then again, I have never experienced war.
I managed to walk into the old palace grounds without paying the entrance fee. Thanks to my mother, for the inherited ability to turn myself invisible.
I overheard some young women speaking Chinese. Gave them quite a start when I said
Du bu qi, ni shenme difang ren? They were from the Renegade Province.
The locals here are extra-smiley, even for Thais. The goodwill reverberates. I, like many of the tuk-tuk drivers, store workers, grandfathers, and school kids, walk around with a ridiculous and infectuous grin.
Today I met an American who is teaching in China. Also chatted with some Italians, French, and a few guys from Spokane. It's a small world, after all.
In the internet shop there were many Thai teenagers playing very loud computer games. Next
to me was someone working on some colorful puzzle program. After an hour I looked over to see a woman old enough to be my grandmother! This country is full of contradictions and surprises.
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Aunt Tamara
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Thank you
Dear Bren-- It is Saturday am here in CA... the sun is bright and the house is sleeping--except for lil' Mowgli--our new baby dog--and Mickey -our old dog. At nearly 50 years old, I have realized the joy of dog life. These guys create love whenever they appear. They are joyous in their actions and happily share their energy. Your descriptions and photos delight my imagination. The bright splashes of color on the ancient structures intrigue me. What are the color swatches made of... cloth? You mention the locals--do you see many of them out at the historic wonders and/or enjoying the natural wonders? Love your writings---Safe travels---Love to you-- Aunt Tamara