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Published: January 25th 2010
Thanon Ratchadamnoen Klang was once the widest street in all of Bangkok. It was used by the royal family to travel from the Golden Mount temple to Sanam Luang, the royal cremation ground.
Today the street is frequented by tuk-tuks, buses, private sedans and sunburnt tourists. I decided to go for a wander to see what I could see.
First, I came to the Democracy Monument. It was built in 1939 by Field Marshal Plaek Pibulsonggram to commemorate the coup de estat which brought about a constitutional monarchy in Thailand. The design is highly Westernized, but still retains many native elements. Field Marshal Plaek Pibulsonggram sought to "modernize" Bangkok, making "Thanon Ratchadamnoen the Champs-Élysées and the Democracy Monument the Arc de Triomphe." In the process, many people (primarily Chinese-Thais) lost their homes and shops.
Despite it's questionable origins, the Monument has been used by generations of Thais as a rallying point to gather en mass against various abusive regimes. In 1973, many hundreds of Thai students were massacerred near the monument while protesting against a military regime.
Along Thanon Ratchadamnoen Klang there is a memorial to those who lost their lives in 1973. There were a few
Thai tourists, mostly middle-aged men who perhaps remember the time of suffering, bravery, and upheaval. Mostly, however, there were street vendors and tuk-tuk drivers getting some shade. There was the faint yet unmistakable smell of burning cannabis in the air.
You can say many things about Asian culture, but the people of this continent care about their politics. Right now Thailand is split between the "red shirts" and the "yellow shirts" for reasons I do not entirely understand. Good thing I only have an orange t-shirt.
I traveled on to Wat Saket. This is the "Golden Mount", built upon an artificial hill. This hill was formed by the ruins of a previous attempt by King Rama III to built a giant artifice. The structure collapsed upon itself, and after many decades formed a hill overgrown with weeds. King Rama V built a more modest, but still beautiful and impressive temple upon the ruins of his over-eager grandfather. A lesson for all of humanity.
The grounds around Wat Saket are like an illustration from some wonderful fairy tale. The effect is hard to describe adequately. Lush tropical vegetation and Buddhist symbolism. Actually, all of Thailand has a bit
of this feel. There is something truly magical about this place. There is a fusion of cultures- Hindu dieties, Buddhist shrines, and impressive mosques. They have a king, and take him seriously. There are many small shrines on every city block, much like in Kolkata. A rainbow of skin colors. A healthy (if often a bit foul) sense of humor. Many different nations and tribes have passed through this land. A
The view from the top of Wat Saket is awesome. A nice panorama of modern Bangkok.
Bangkok is criss-crossed by various canals which are frequented by boats used by commuters. A novel way to avoid traffic jams.
There are a few Sanskrit words that the Thai language has incorporated. "Santi", and "maya" for example- peace and illusion. Actually, the only two words needed when talking to street people who don't speak English but wish to chat.
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Kap Kun Ka. very nice. it is magical, entirely. the king and queen have championed the village people, helped them establish various crafts which are sold in special outlets they are the mother and father (grand) of the people. every man must be in the military for awhile, and the monestary for awhile. sawaadeka, Bren. you're giving me flashbacks.