Blogs from Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Province, Tajikistan, Asia - page 2


July 20 - Pamir Highway trip Day 9 - Langar to Bulunkul Woke up with a bad stomach and was in the bathroom every hour from 5-8am. Good times. I found out later that the others also felt a little bad, but not as much. Must have been something from the homestay. Ate the porridge for breakfast, and a little bread. We left at 9am and the initial part was a really bouncy unpaved road. I was sitting in the back and it felt particularly bad, with my stomach. The others realized they had forgotten the beers they bought last night, and they had to go back to retrieve them, so I got out of car and waited. Didn't want to experience that two more times on the round trip. While I waited, I bought a ... read more
My last day with Afghanistan
Our first - and only - camels

July 15 - Pamir Highway trip Day 4 - Rushan to Jizeu valley Last night I had another bad night of sleep. Every single night has been the same. I wake up a lot and have trouble falling to sleep again. I also sometimes have the sensation in these new types of mattresses that some tiny insect is crawling on me, under the covers. But I see nothing and feel nothing when I brush it away. And there are no bites. No idea. I also had some stomach pain and at 3:30am had to make a bathroom/outhouse trip. Constipation over, but more of a 180 reversal. What is happening? We said goodbye to the Belgians at breakfast and we headed out at 9 am. Our driver (the 2nd) dropped us off at 10:30am at the start ... read more
This is how our hike started
The suspension bridge
View from the hike

July 14 - Pamir Highway trip Day 3 - Vanj to Rushan We were supposed to stay in the same place for two nights, and go hiking to see a glacier today, but with the car broken and not being able to get to the place where the hike started, and the hike being longer than we were originally told, and rain in the morning, we decided to leave today. We spent a lot of time in the morning trying to figure out how to make the trip work, but in the end decided to leave it up to Mirzo, the guy we booked the trip with. That was fine. We drove our busted car very slowly, and with many breaks to dump water in, back to Vanj, where we had lunch again. When we finished, ... read more
Views from the road
Views from the road

Osh is a construction site next to a giant mound of dirt stamped with UNESCO’s approval of heritage. Meeting his to do list expectations, the visitor arranged onward transport, a 4WD Pajero, to tour the Pamir Highway, a weeklong odyssey shared with a couple Aussie girls. Darniel, the driver, a Kyrgyz from Murgab, arrives at the hostel punctually, and proves most competent. Rolling hills of gold grass lead southward to taller and taller rock faces narrowing in on the road. A hundred kilometres brings the expedition to wide sloping Alay Valley cut by the Kyzyl River and fenced in by the snowy crags of Peak Lenin towering above the villages of Sary Tash and Sary Mogul. Under clear skies teams of young men build new homes of mud brick. Beyond, tucked in the foot hills, Taktakol ... read more
Kyzyl-Art Pass
Kyzyl-Art Pass
Pamir Hwy, Karakul

I am writing this blog a year after and have to say don't remember all the details but thought I write it anyway briefly the route and let the pictures speak for itself how wonderful and rewarding this hike was. Starting off from Khorog we need to get to a village up in the mountains called Bachor. Problem is, there was a landslide en route when you take the Pamir highway around Manem village, about an hour from Khorog. So we took a shared minivan to that village, then we have to walk up around the mountains on goat trails, that is dangerously steep and with our 20 plus kgs of backpack is not for the faint of heart. 2 hours to walk to where the army has zodiac boats to get us across to the ... read more
Rickety bridge in Bachor
Tsaxen lake
Uchkul lake

The Roof of the World includes Tajikistan's Pamir Mountains located in Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Province (GBAO) as well as other significant mountain ranges of South-Central Asia: the Himalayas, Tien Shan, Karakorum, and Hindu Kush. After Dushanbe, I spent almost 3 weeks traveling around the Pamir region on the way back to Kyrgyzstan. There were huge numbers of tourists, not as many as in Uzbekistan which was absolutely mobbed, but more than any other region in Central Asia. It's easy to understand why - the scenery is spectacular and the Pamiris are very friendly. Currently in Saint Petersburg, Russia after a very long flight from Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan to Moscow via already freezing Siberia then an overnight train. Nice to be back here but it's way colder than my 2 previous visits in July, 2011 and June, 2012 but ... read more
Rokhi Safed - Bon Voyage!
Afghan Market

I am researching travel to Tajikistan this summer 2013 and wondered if the border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan is still closed due to fighting in August in Khorog. We would like to if possible travel to the Wakhan Corridor but don't know if that is possible at this time. We may take our mountain bikes on this trip and am studying the routes including the M-41 and other alternate routes. If anyone has done this let me know. Thanks.... read more

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