Blogs from Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Province, Tajikistan, Asia

If you’re wondering whether the Pamir Mountains, the 3rd highest mountain range in the world, are the right destination for your trip, you should read the following lines. It’s been almost two years since I travelled to the Pamirs in Central Asia. The group was small and consisting of avid travellers. All were happy and kind during the first days of the trip. That was until we reached the High Pamirs. Once we were at altitudes above 3,500 m, the living conditions became rough. Everyone, travelling to this part of the world, should come prepared for both the mental and physical challenges of the journey. To my surprise, a large part of our group came totally unprepared. My travel companions Dave & MJ and url=../../Asia/Tajikistan/Gorno-Ba... read more

Day 17 Rest Day in Alichur (3881m) Aunty (Tamara) brings me rice with salty milk, 3 boiled eggs, bread, cherry jam and yoghurt for breakfast. M and B turn up later after farewelling Mohammed's Mum, who is a teacher, off to school. A decision is firmed up- we condense Days 16 and 17 into 1 in order to take a day off here in Alichur. I think it's a good plan: 1. Gives me another day at 3881m for acclimatisation 2. I can have a shower (!!) in the spotlessly clean bathroom and potentially wash my hair (joy), although I have been firmly instructed not to do so until after lunch when it will be a bit warmer "as I will catch a cold". 3. I can wash clothes. 4. I can catch up on writing ... read more

Day 14 Guisimo Home Stay, Bachor to my tent in a spot by the Gunt River Sleeping altitude 3523m 07:00 I'm ready as per plan, no one else is (great sleep btw). 07:40 I'm still ready, so is breakfast- rice with milk, Nescafe, M and B have milk choi with bread and butter in it. 09:38 This is so funny, the reason we are still waiting is that the donkey man is trying to find his escaped donkey. Apparently it went AWOL in the night but it has been found... across in the main village. The other major delay is that our leaking gas bottle is still leaking and given that we are on the trail for 3 days we need it. B is attempting to fix it with duct tape and liquid nails. Should be ... read more

It's been a crazy 24 hours, after being denied access to the lounge at Dubai T2 I had a dispute with the girl in the cafe who want to charge me 5 bucks more to replace the dairy with almond milk. The short but uncomfortable flight allowed no opportunity to sleep so when I reached immigration first in an empty hall I was feeling positive only to be sent away to fill out an entry card, no pens of course so by the time I managed to borrow one and complete the card there were 3 hundred or so people pushing and shoving in the lines. I finally got out of there and was at my hotel by 4 but couldn't sleep, eventually I must have gone under as my alarm went off at 8am and ... read more

TAJIKISTAN with the Tajik Outlaws Part 6...War & Peace...the Rise of the Kool Kids. Through the Akbaital Pass at 4,655 metres...the highest point of the trip...long descent to the village of Kara Kul 3,914 metres...spectacular landscapes on our left...the Chinese border with razor wire fencing on our right. A Tajik military post opposite our homestay...cross the road at your peril made clear to us...guards with rifles visible...a tourist ended his trip by doing so...the Germans irritation that there are restrictions on them because of that. Enter the homestay...flat roofed white dwellings with the highest salt lake in Central Asia behind it. Suggested the Irish woman share the fourth bedroom with Naddya..."No way" she yawps...entering the room. "This room is filthy, I'm not occupying this room until it is cleaned...and the window sill is dirty"...stamping her feet. ... read more