Day #111: Kinmen's military history

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Kinmen Island's fame in Taiwan stems from its involvement in the Chinese Civil War. Because it is so close to the coast of China - much closer than Taiwan island - it became a military reserve during the war and well into the 20th Century, and was heavily shelled and a constant political flashpoint between the Nationalists and Communists - at one point the USA threatened China with nuclear war should it attack Kinmen. It attracts military historians and ordinary Taiwanese who study the island's history at school.

Cycling is the best way to see Kinmen as there is little traffic outside of Jinsheng. It was amazing how varied the scenery was over the course of just one day's riding around - beaches, forests, lakes, temples and colonial buildings, and, more than anything, war memorials. The strangest was a Buddhist temple built in honour of General Li who was seen as instrumental in holding off the Chinese threat during the civil war, where instead of a Buddha, the central statue for worship is a statue of the General. The temple is very much active - I saw several locals praying and lighting incense - apparently because the General is seen as a protector of the island still. The most moving monument was a great bell that is rung 823 on memorial days, in remembrance of the shelling attack that commenced on 23rd August 1958 and killed hundreds on the island. For 20 years after this, the Chinese shelled the island only every other day; the alternate days they fired propaganda shells, which are still used to make souvenir knives on the island. One former battlement has been coverted to a bird hide - the narrow gun ports are perfect for binoculars.

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