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Published: December 17th 2013
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Best-laid schemes and all that...
When we went to the station in Weligama to buy tickets this morning we were told there were no first class cars on any of the trains going to Colombo today. Serves us right for trusting what we were told the day before!
We had hoped to acclimate to train travel with a trip in 1st class where a seat is guaranteed, and to ease our way back to 2nd class at a later date just to have the experience, but given the option of 2nd class or a day's delay in our trip, both of us chose to dive right in. We are rapidly learning to roll with the punches here.
Since Weligama is only the second stop on the line we thought we may have a chance at a seat but the car was full when it arrived and we had to find space where we could. Luckily we found a nice spot at the end of a car, where both doors were wide open. It was a great place from which to see the scenery and to observe people jumping on and off, often while the train was still moving.
We also saw a lot of hitchhikers that hung on outside the train. A local told us these were people who hadn't bought tickets. They stayed outside the train the whole time. At one point a station agent came through to check tickets and sent several people back to 3rd class, but any empty seats were filled almost as soon as they were vacated.
No problem - we found a corner to stuff our knapsacks and I had a lovely sitting spot. Matt enjoyed standing in the gap between cars and taking a turn hanging out the train to snap some shots. More and more people got on the closer we got to Colombo and by the time we arrived, the car began to feel like very close quarters. After 3 1/2 hours we arrived and had to navigate the very busy train station to buy tickets to Ella tomorrow morning, which was an adventure in its own right. Afterward we decided to walk the 10 or 12 blocks to the hotel rather than take a tuk tuk. We didn't realize that we'd be walking through the Pettah neighbourhood and the busiest Bazaar in Colombo.
The amount of
stuff sold in shops and on the street is incredible. From high end gold jewelry and gems to plastic children's toys, balloons and all manner of plastic goods, batteries, leather goods, fruit, saris and children's clothes. Everywhere you look people are negotiating and hawkers are calling out sales pitches. There are so many blinking lights, glittering statues, and shiny fabrics your brain can't process everything your eyes are taking in. Barefoot men push wheeled carts overflowing with flip flops or bananas down the street. Tuk tuks and delivery trucks plow through the crowd with seemingly no concern about hitting anyone. Pedestrians and dogs weave in and out of the traffic in both directions. As we walked by a large temple we were overwhelmed by the sounds of chanting and the incense streaming out. A woman was out front selling fresh flowers. There are beggars on sidewalks and men sitting and chatting in doorways. It was so much to see, smell and hear that it was all I could to not lose Matt in the crowd. Luckily his height made it easy for me to keep him in sight while at the same time scanning the ground in front of me for anything offensive, and ducking vehicles.
We reached the hotel and nearly collapsed. After a long shower and a meal of dosas and poori (which was delicious) we called it a night quite pleased with ourselves. This was really our first foray into a large Sri Lankan city and though it was a little hectic, we managed to get our tickets, dinner, and find our way quite easily.
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Dawn
non-member comment
Whew!
Whoa! I was tired (yet exhilarated) just reading your entry. I can only imagine how exhausted the two of you were once you collapsed on the bed at the end of the day. Love the pictures. Please take lots with the two of you in them. Those are my favorites. Love and more love. Momma Dawn